DriverVR6

You can also buy clear waxoyl, it's exactly the same as the black waxoly, only it's clear lol. The stuff you get from VW is actually wax and sets harder, whilst waxoyl stays "wet". As The Hoff says if you use black waxoly in the doors and boot lid then it will drip out and make a right mess. Best to use the VW stuff in the cavities and waxoyl (black or clear) under the wings, under the floor, etc. Waxoly is good stuff and I'll going to give mine another blast again once I get around to it. I like the look at that POR15. Where do you get it from??

Well, I have a couple of original sets, so if you want to maybe we could do a straight swap? I'll need to dig them out to see condition so let me know. I like the look of the ones you have on yours and wouldn't mind putting them on the 16v I run as a daily. I would always keep the original look on my VR as I think that is the best way to keep them.

Car looks really great. Red ones do seem to stand out once they are cleaned and polished. What are the fog lamps you have fitted to your car?

LOL, Well that was lucky that they opened and closed the door whilst you were at the back of the car with the bumper off LOL. It's amazing how you find these things out, I would never have known about them.

What is the going rate for a good second hand pair of these? I know what price they are brand new, but what do second hand ones usually cost??

I wasn't aware of any "flaps" inside the openings for the rear bumper to mount, I'll have to look for/check those next time I remove the bumper. What do these flaps do then?

sleeper16, I've dropped you a pm.

Nino, dropped you a pm.

Hence why am always reluctant to buy components 2nd hand, as even when the seller says it is for a particular car you can't always be sure it is. Can be an honest mistake, but nonetheless a mistake. Glad you are on the way to getting it sorted. And it all started with a nut.......

RF, here's some photos of the Karmann gearstick surround on mine. The one I have on my VR is different in respect to the Karmann logo and also the gearknob itself is different. It has white lettering and is protected underneath a clear plastic cover. The spare one I have for comparison has a different Karmann logo and the gearknob just has the numbers etched with no cover protecting them, hence they have become faded. Mine definitely does not glow and is not lit so maybe you have seen that somewhere else. Sorry the pictures are not brilliant, but I hope you get what I mean.

Subtle mods- nothing over the top just a good set of conventional strut Bilsteins and matching springs. Powerflex bushes throughout. Michelin Pilot Sport on the front and BF Goodrich Profiler's on the rears. Did all of the ball joints and steering rod ends at the same time as the rest of the suspension so I knew everything was as it should be. And it's been fine ever since.

Sleeper16, here are the printout figs for mine; Camber -1.75 Left and Right Castor as per factory spec which is 3.25 Partial toe Left and Right should be 0.0mm so wheels should be parallel stationary, and the tolerance is -0.6mm to +0.6mm. As for figures for rear axle, they should be within tolerance when they put it on the alignment equipment. If that is not the case, then something is either bent, worn or has not been refitted correctly. Mine handles fine, no twitchiness, tramlining, bouncing, etc. It has very subtle suspension mods and against popular opinion it has Powerflex bushes throughout including the rear beam. Hope this helps.

Camber - For my VR6 I'll see if I can find the printout of my settings and post on here. They were pretty close to factory spec but with slightly more negative, but I can't remember the figure off the top of my head. Toe was as per factory spec (front wheels parallel when stationary). As you say it is best to get the front wishbone bushes and ball joints done first before you get the alignment set. Do everything in pairs, left and right. Check for play in the steering rack and the steering rod ends while you are down there. Has the rear beam ever been removed together with the chassis brackets/mounts? If anything is bent on your car then any GOOD wheel alignment place with the correct gear will be able to spot that. However, there are a lot of Garages out there that don't even know how to use the alignment equipment they have so it can't be guaranteed they always will !!

JB, maybe worth trying this if the new ignition switch still does not solve it. Infact, this is worth doing anyway as a good backup without actually cutting the loom and can be left insitu until needed..... http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41192-For-those-with-hot-start-problems-lil-update

That's no problem, like you said it's YOUR car so YOU can do what you like with it. Good luck with it.

Smiithy, I'm going to give you some GOOD FREE advice. Not very often these days that you can get GOOD advice for FREE, but here is some......... Before you start changing this and that, drive and live with the car first. Then you will be able to see what is good and bad with the car. Why automatically assume you need to put coilovers on it? What's wrong with the way it is handling at the moment? Is it going to handle any better if you put some coilovers on it? And if you think it is, then why do you think that? The headlights are only "crap" if the wiring is deteriorated due to age and is not carrying enough voltage. Try them first before you start cutting the loom. If you think the headlights are not bright enough then try some uprated bulbs first and see if that improves things. Do you know how many people with "uprated" headlight looms have problems with the lights failing and going out completely when they are driving on some dark country lane? I have a 16v with an "uprated" headlight loom. Complete nightmare which I've had to fix and revert back to how it was when it came out of the VW factory. Even if you uprate the headlights on a Corrado, they are never going to be as good as the headlights on other cars which are just better by design. If you are desperate to waste money then why not just send it to me and I'll waste it for you? There's a new "Gentlemens" Club opening near to me and I quiet fancy spending all night in there so if you have any cash you are eager to waste then please just send it to me.

Nice looking clean car. Don't spoil it with silly modifications!!!

Where did you get the Rainsport tyres from for that price????

JJasonJJ, I'm interested in the VR6 airbox and MAF with K&N panel filter (what is the "purple paint" on the MAF????) Where are you located?

gOldf1ng3r, yes you're absolutely correct the mpg will be affected if the tyre pressures are lower than factory spec. In respect to the handling of the car, increasing and decreasing the pressures will also have a dramatic affect on the balance of the car.

Nino, forgot that photos are already up of these on my following thread.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?66693-Original-front-door-speakers ......let me know if you want them.

Just because something doesn't look "nice and shiny" it doesn't mean that it is no longer any good. As long as all the seals are good, then it will work as well as a brand new set. And if someone is willing to pay the asking price, then that's the right price to sell them at. Just my two pence worth.

corozin, thanks. I'll take a look at the photos and then send you a pm. Will probably be tomorrow.

sleeper16, what I would have done is check the condition of the existing components to try to establish why it did not handle as well as you say it used to. By changing everything you are introducing loads of variables into the equation. Every part you put on needs to work in harmony together. Just throwing on a set of "random" coilovers, then some bushes, anti roll bar, etc will not work. If it was that easy then every race team would just put the same parts on with the same settings and set an identical lap time!! As for the camber setting, once again it needs to be set taking into account the rest of the set up and geometry, or you could as most do and set it at the standard factory setting. However, the factory setting IS NOT the best setting if you have altered the factory spec suspension!! The caster can't "normally" be adjusted as it is fixed. Finally, something that very rarely gets mentioned is the tyre pressures. Have you checked these and what pressures are you running?

I have these, in excellent condition, will put some picks up tomorrow.