DriverVR6

JohnnyH, okay, I'll find out if he still has them and put some pics and prices up. Obviously Rusty has first option on them.

Rusty, I really would not advise swapping a single damper, you should always do them in axle pairs otherwise you risk an inbalance from left to right especially under braking. A friend of mine had a 2nd hand complete set of the adjustable Koni Dampers (front and rear), They are the yellow sport ones you are after. I can find out if he still has them and what he wants for them if you like, and get some pics up of them.

Hi Nathan, yes they do fit a VR6, but unfortunately they are now sold. Sorry.

Thanks everyone for your kind words, I really appreciate it. I asked VR6 (admin) to lock the thread as I wanted Dingo's post to be the last one in his memory. Nothing bad was said on there by anyone. I did receive a few silly PM's from people chasing me about stuff, which I thought was a little inconsiderate. (Not you Jacques so don't worry) I'll hopefully come back to the forum in a few months and will happily talk about cars again, just seems alittle unimportant at the moment. Take care all, and hopefully speak later.

......I have to say that I am disappointed with some of the members of the the-corrado.net forum. We all have two "known" things in common....1st, we have a passion for VW Corrados. And 2nd'ly we are "apparently" all human beings? On my thread I posted that I had to have my dog put to sleep, hoping that people would be respectful. (Buying and selling Corrado parts etc isn't at the top of my list at the moment, but I will honour anything I have agreed to and I have always done so.) Guess a bit of understanding at this time is too much to ask for really? Seems to be a sign of the times now in this country that manners and courtesy have gone straight out of the window, and it's all about the £££££££££ these days isn't it? Regards, Vinny. PS. Thanks to VR6 and Redfox, I appreciated your condolences and kind words.

Rip

Yes, I thought the same......lol

Sorry Karl, didn't see that. Yes S2000's are great, and in my opinion the early prefacelift ones are the best. I can't think of many manufacturers that can get 125bhp naturally aspirated per litre, with 100% reliability. As far as I'm aware, a VTEC system has never failed. It's also a ground up Cabriolet, so no body flex. I'd better stop now as I don't want to hog Abduls thread and talk about VTECS on a Corrado Forum...!!!!

What about an S2000??? I always said that I would not buy Japanese, then I tried an S2000 on a track day and I was hooked. Yes I love my VR6, and I've had the usual BMW's, but the VTEC Honda's have that certain something. I had a Moonstone Grey Civic Type R as a company car, and I think I set a world record on a run from Birmingham to Aberystwyth............ If I could find an NSX in the right colour, mileage and spec, the VR6 would be gone.

My advice, buy an unmolested example and then adjust the price taking into account what needs to be done. I know alot of bodyshop "professionals", and the stuff I have seen them "hide" under a new paint job really horrifies me. That's the reason I never buy resprayed cars unless i know the owner, or saw the car before the respray......

I will Jim. Do you recognise the speakers???...Sorry, didn't read all of your post. Yes they are the ones out of your old valver. I don't really use the parcel shelf bracket speakers and that why I have made them easily switchable. At least they are bringing music to my ears now.... Also took out the infinities from the dash pods (very posh) and the ones from the door pockets. The valver will be a light weight "track racer" when I've finished with it, so it won't be needing the speakers....

Didn't have much time to spend on the VR6 today, so I just upgraded the 4x6's in the rear shelf support brackets and also added an inline fuse to the boot compartment light (just to avoid any electrical fires!) I also insulated the bulb so that it cannot short itself on the contacts. With the speakers I used a connector so that I can switch easily between the 6x4's in the shelf supports and the bigger 6x9's in the parcel shelf. I also didn't cut the original speaker loom and used a plug I had up. Got pretty messy in the boot with the amount of tools I ended up using!!! Loads to do tomorrow on my other Corrado (2.0 16v) to get it through the MOT, so I hope it doesn't rain.....

"do like those steering wheels, but not so keen on the knob as it just looks outta place." I think it's meant for a Golf. I've not seen one before so I think it's defo worth keeping.

They also lower the octane rating of the fuel (not a good thing) so help with the idle emissions. It's best to put back on when taking your car for an MOT as if the MOT bloke knows his stuff he will fail it if the PCV is missing, and I believe it is illegal to vent engines oil vapours directly into the atmosphere (but don't quote me on that as I am not 100% certain). Early VR's simply had a pipe from the top of engine cover to the flexible inlet pipe to vent the engine vapours back into the engine to be reburnt.

Without getting too technical, brake fade caused by inappropriate pads/boiling fluid will not be prevented by larger discs . You cure brake fade by using pads with a higher coefficient of friction and brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Larger discs provide more leverage and better retardation, but they will still fade with inappropriate pads and fluid. As Jim says, change your fluid first, then take a look at the pads. If they are worn, replace for a better set (there are numerous harder fast road compounds out there). Really basic stuff like having "closed spoke" alloys which do not allow air to get to the discs can have a big effect on brake system temperatures. So check to see if the discs have air channelled towards them, and brake ducts are an easy and cheap solution, and also look good. The reason I say this is because I had a mk2 golf gti with the same size of discs as yours, and the only mods were racing spec fluid, harder pads (mintex) and Oz 5 spoke alloys. And I had no issues with fade, within reason.

Only joking Jim. I used to do alot of Karting and a bit of track work, so I'm well used to "controlled aggression". I'm definately going to take the valver to the next stage of it's development as it's a very good base. It'll be lighter and more agile, so watch this space.... VR6Pete, apologies for hijacking your thread.

I've got to get myself down to the Ring sometime very soon. Won't be using my VR6 though, but I'll use Jims old valver lol. So what time did you do Jim, I'll see if I can beat it???

Jim, I did notice the Ring sticker on the back of your old valver which i now own......and you'll be happy to know that I managed to get the running problems sorted...SO IT LIVES!!!

Doesn't sound right at all. My guess, as already mentioned, is that the brake calipers are binding on. Do you know what pads are on there? The reason I ask is if they are really cheap ones, then they would fade very quickly, but that still would not explain the heat issue. I've NEVER had a car whose alloys were too hot to touch, and I'm including a track day car in that!!

James, a lovely looking car, and it's great that you've started setting the car up for summer family use, so they can all enjoy the car. If you've not already replaced the 90mm front splitter for the 50mm one, then I highly recommend that you do it asap. It makes a huge difference to the practicality of the car with all those speed bumps/uneven roads out there! Changed mine a few days back. The 90mm one looks better, but the 50mm makes the car easier to live with. Store the 90mm away and keep it damage free.

330ci, I hope you have good reflexes to catch the back end..... Get an NSX (if you can find one), you'll be happy.

That VW Motorsport one is rare is it not? Not seen one of those before....definately worth putting on/keeping.

Never had a Z3....they had a bit of a bad reputation didn't they? However, I did like the hardtop M version in grey, with the quad exhausts...If you like long bonnets, then get an E Type Jag lol

Well once you've done it yourself, you'll know it's done correctly and will be 100% reliable.

Well, being honest when I was looking to buy my VR6 I wanted a Mystic Blue Storm (which comes with with Black Leather as standard) However, I ended up buying a flash red one with cloth interior!!! So the pros and cons of leather or cloth; Leather; it looks good and it is timeless in that black leather will always be fashionable. Leather is also very easy to keep clean. However, it can be uncomfortable when the weather is very hot or cold. Cloth; it looks good if it is in mint condition, but it is difficult to keep clean, especially if it is used as a daily. It is comfortable all year around. Both leather and cloth wears as well as each other (VW cloth is one of the best around for being hardwearing), and the drivers bolster wears down in both leather and cloth. So in summary, it is down to personal preference. If I had the choice between leather and cloth, both mint, then I would go for leather. If however I found a mint cloth one, then I would not turn it down. And I would not pay over the odds for leather, as the huge premium in price, in my opinion, is not worth it. There is no way I would pay more than £700 for a mint complete leather interior (front and rear seats and door cards).