DriverVR6

MattPc, the part numbers you kindly supplied, are they for the later one piece chain guide (13 on diagram) and later chain tensioner bolt (11 on diagram)? IE, the improved mk4 ones? Kev, I was going to buy the following in option 3 form. http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/shop/VR6-Timing.htm Is this the FEBI one that you would NOT recommend?

Jim, the thing is if any company can make money at low cost by taking a natural resource out of the ground, then you can bet they are going to do it. Most of these companies have politicians (or ex politicians) on their boards so they'll always sweep any concerns (evidence based or not)the general public may have.

So Mr Bacon, I take it that you're not a fan of 12v Corrados:? I know a lot of people always seem to have problems with the original 12v, but I can say that I've never had any issues with mine. It's quiet, reliable and pulls strongly. And the sound it makes...not heard many V6's that sound better.

A real shame that a bad few spoil it for the good many on this forum. And you always get the same bull***t excuses. My message is simple- IF YOU ARE SELLING GOODS AND RECEIVE THE MONEY FOR THE GOODS, THEN SEND THE GOODS TO THE BUYER. IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE AND BASIC GOOD MANNERS!!!!!!!

I think I'll hold onto the set I have:smug:. They seem to be the only thing going up higher than inflation. Wish I had bought more now when I had the chance!

Jim, I promise you that swapping an engine over is not a difficult job at all. As long as you have the correct tools (and there is nothing too fancy that you need just a good range of tools) it can be done easily in one day. I'd be more than happy to help you to do it. It is very rewarding when you do it yourself, and most importantly, you know you've done it right!

If you sell it, then in the future you'll regret it. I regret selling some of the cars I've had in the past. Most have now attained true classic status and worth a small fortune. Much more than I ever spent, or would have had to spend to bring them up to standard. So I'll be keeping my VR6 in original standard condition as I have no intention of making the previous mistakes again!

Does anyone know of a good shot blasting place in or near Birmingham? I need to have my spare rear beam and some front struts shot blasted prior to repainting. Thanks.

The original VW ones are a 4 piece construction and that's the reason why certain parts of the construction material perishes over time. When I tried to get some companies to fabricate a set all that they could come up with was a one piece plastic moulding, similar to that used on a MK2 Golf Gti. Visually it looked okay, but you could tell that they were a pattern piece. I would therefore be interested to see what you come up with the companies you are approaching.

...before they became obselete. Brand new and unopened, so I may sell them as I already have a spare set. I'll put them in the "Parts For Sale" section if I decide I am going to sell them. I did try to make a set before I bought them, and I asked a few companies if they could help, but no joy. They are harder to make than they look if you want the original look.

Yes managed to fabricate the repairs to the rear door cards. I used a set of cloth door cards that I had as a spare set to provide the donor pieces I needed. I think the attached pictures show what I did better than trying to explain....

Refurbed Speedlines are on and it sailed through the MOT with no advisories. Result!.......Not sure why the photos don't show unless you click into them?

I have to say that mine is lovely and quiet. It's now got nearly 80k on the clock. I've always used Mobil 1 in it & it's never given me any problems. Even passed the MOT emissions a week ago with ease & that's on the original CAT and Lambda. Only thing I have ever had to do with it mechanically is replace the upper tensioner, & I even replaced that with the original two piece one as I did not know then that you could use the latter one piece one. It was ten years ago that I replaced it.

This seems to be happening way too often on this forum. A very simple solution would be to permanently ban individuals who advertise to sell goods then do not answer PM's, do not send the goods, make a variety of excuses, etc etc. It's becoming a JOKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If anyone knows this guy, can you please ask him to log in and check his PM's. Not at all surprised that this forum has a bad seller thread..... Cheers.

Everything you need to know about how to do the timing chains is here so have a good read before you start the job. It is easier than it looks as long as you follow this guide. Taking the head off is not complicated just make sure you have the correct tool to remove the head bolt bolts and take them off in the correct sequence. Getting hold of a manual would be a good idea. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_clutch_and_timing_chains_replacement_part_1.html

I've read right through this thread (sad I know). To claim that the banjo coupling needs to be centered within the banjo bolt is the biggest load of rubbish I have ever read. The banjo bolt is supposed to fit perfectly inside the banjo coupling with no lateral movement!

I did mine a few years ago as they are prone to failure at some point. I think it has something to do with using the older G10 antifreeze?? Hence why it was replaced with G11, G12.... Not that difficult to do and I definitely would not trust a garage to do it as I've come across too many incompetent so called "experienced mechanics"! They'll also change you a fortune to do it. Always worth doing yourself as you know you'll have done it right and it's good to learn. I'll dig out the invoices later if I have time and let you know what parts you need to purchase to do the job properly and how much I paid for the parts, but it was a few years ago....

VR6 for comfort, engine noise and cruising ability. Yes the handling will be different/better for a lighter G60 (or 16v or very rare 8v) but we are talking about tiny differences. And lets face it, most people can't tell the difference between a good handing car and a badly handling one anyway. I love my 16v as a general everyday agile car, but it doesn't bring a smile to my face or feel as special as a VR6. As for reliability, if you correctly look after a VW engine then they will be reliable.

Explanation is here...... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?16648-Tracking-adjusting-toe/page3

I'm going to use some reinforced resin or fibre glass to fix the door cards. I'll let you know how I get on.

lot needs doing...

Henny, thanks for putting up the photos of the leather interior. I'll have it so I've sent you a PM to arrange payment and collection.

Well the old girl has exceeded all expectations and gone and passed the MOT. I had to tinker with it a little to get it to pass the emissions, but pass it did. Couple of advisories, but nothing costly or expensive, so I'll do those when the weather warms up a bit. So glad it passed the MOT, as it means another 12 months of using it as my daily !

I'm very confused by this. As others have said as long as the cams are lined up with the marks and you have the engine at TDC and the distributor pointing to the mark to fire on cylinder no 1 then it should start and run. Mine idles even if you move the distributor throughout its timing range. I recently replaced the head gasket on mine. On refitting I just lined up all the various components/marks, turned the key and it worked fine. There has got to be something fundamentally wrong with what you are doing. Where are you based??? Apologies, just see that you mention you are in Oxford so a little too far for me to come and help. Sorry.