DriverVR6

In my opinion here are the top 10 greatest F1 drivers; 1/ Ayrton Senna (Simply head and shoulders above everyone else and the fastest ever) 2/ Jim Clarke. (Almost as quick as Senna) 3/ Juan Manuel Fangio. (Could he have coped with modern F1 cars?) 4/ Alain Prost (Underrated and often overlooked. Look at the calibre of the drivers he raced against to win the 4 tiltles). 5/ Tazio Nuvolari (Crazy) 6/ Jackie Stewart (3 titles in an era when most drivers did not live long enough to win 1) 7/ Gilles Villeneuve (Quick and fearless. If only he had lived and got into a better car.) 8/ Fernando Alonso (Most complete driver around today) 9/ Nigel Mansell (Went toe to toe with Senna, Prost, Piquet..) 10/ Michael Schumacher (Lucky that Prost retired and Senna passed away and that Damon Hill was in the Williams and not Berger, Alesi or Hakkinen. Only in my top 10 because of his stats) Could have placed some other drivers jointly with some of the above, but gets very complicated.....

Go for Bilsteins if you want fixed rate damping, or Konis if you want adjustable damping. If I were you, I'd stick with the Bilsteins with fixed damping. And if you are going for slightly lowered/uprated springs then you should not really use the OE Sachs dampers as they are valved/setup for use with standard springs.

No way would I ever fit a set of coilovers to a road car. Completely pointless and nothing to be gained from doing so. My advice is simply buy a reputable (Koni, Bilstein) set of dampers which are 20% uprated, or if your budget stretches that far get adjustable dampers. Add a set of slightly lowered 20% uprated springs. Make sure all the bushes are in good condition and have the whole geometry set up correctly by someone that knows what they are doing. Do this, and your car will be comfortable and handle very well, if not better than a coilover set up. Sorry, but coilovers belong with the Max Power brigade that know zilch about car handling and are just into "slamming it man".....

Fishwick, if I told you that my BFGoodridge ProfilerG are about 10 years old would you be shocked? The backs still have about 4mm of tread and are evenly worn and with no cracks or perishing. Karl has seen the car with these tyres and even he could not believe it. Shame you cannot buy them anymore...

What is the part number on yours as I may have one?

Grim1, thanks for the feedback. Wet weather performance isn't a concern as I don't use my VR in the wet unless I get caught out. So I may go for a set of the Toyo's. ---------- Post added at 2:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:52 PM ---------- FishWick, thanks for the feedback, I'll take it on board. I currently have BFGoodridge Profilers on at the moment, and they have been a great all seasons tyre. ---------- Post added at 3:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:56 PM ---------- FishWick, do you think the Toyo's not performing so well in the wet has anything to do with how they are bedded in? As from my experience with Yokos (although not on a Corrado) is that once they have bedded in and the top surface has worn away they start to perform much better in the wet.

For sale is my Sony XR-7071 FM/MW/LW Casette Car Stereo & Sony CDX-A55 10 Disc Changer. It is all complete with the snatch plate, CD changer lead and all the manuals. It works perfectly with no missing buttons. It is a dual colour red or green display and packed with features, and I believe it is the original dealer fitted stereo, and looks very good in the Corrado dash. As it's the snatch plate type, it can be removed completely so thieving scum bags have absolutley nothing to steal. The only reason I'm selling it is because my VR is now SORN'ed and I'm probably selling it later in the year. I'm looking for about £120 for the complete stereo & changer. This is the price for collection. I'm happy to set it up for the buyer to listen to before purchase.

I've read through the posts and I'm just wondering what people think about Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2's and Toyo T1-R's??? I've narrowed it down to these two makes and was just wondering what peoples experience of them has been.

Rams, don't know what you paid for the wheels, but sometimes it's better just to put it down to experience. I've bought lots of stuff off forums, ebay, private ads, etc and the fact is that you sometimes get a bad deal. I just then don't ever buy from that person again, and hope to run into them again in the future when the tables have turned, but then that's just my way of looking at it and dealing with it. Hope you get it sorted out to your satisfaction.

Nice looking car. It definately looks lowered to me from the pictures. My advice is keep it as original as you can. And yes the windows do tend to mist up if you don't keep the heater on.

I had to call loads of times yesterday before I got through, so I just told them I would be down to collect this morning as I couldn't be bothered to keep calling them. We'll have to wait and see how long the alloys last. Like I said, you get what you pay for....

Benjevw, you'll get different people saying different things, just like on all forums. If you want to try it, then try it, but in my experience stuff like this has limited success. By the way, engine oils designed for high mileage older cars also have additional seal conditioners in them that "expand and rejuvenate" the seals. Good luck.

No I would not use the additive to stop the leak. If it is only a few drops then just leave it until you can fix it properly. It shouldn't get massively worse. And if the seal fails to the point that it did get much worse then the additive would not stop that anyway.

Well I've picked up my Speedlines, and it's a pretty good job. Here's my before and after assessment; Before; The Speedlines were in good used condition when I bought them, with next to no kerbing and some corrosion in a few places, but nothing too deep. After; Generally good on the exposed face, the bit that we all see. There are two with a very tiny dimpling effect in two places, as per the photos. And on one you can still see the remants of the corrosion through the coating, but this is on the inner surface and will not be seen when the tyre goes on. They do say on their website that they can't make a used wheel look like a new one and it depends on the original condition, so they've been honest. So overall I'm pleased, and it's well worth the £80. However, if I had a really expensive set of alloys, in really bad condition, then I'd talk to them first to see what they can do, and to establish if they would still only charge the £20 per wheel. Or I'd take them to a different wheel refurber, and obviously pay mega money to have them done. As always, you get what you pay for.

Karl, you're like a woman that can't decide which dress she's gonna wear lol I'll wear the Brembo's, or shall I wear the 288's...errr oh I think I'll stick with the Brembo's....or does my arse look big in the Brembo's... lol

Has anyone picked up their wheels yet, and if so, what do they think of the finished product? I'm picking mine up in the morning.

I'd like to say that honesty is the best policy, but in this day and age it's not, and when you are honest it ends up costing you. Sorry for being such a pessimist, but I'm just being honest.......

Jim, coil overs are biased towards track use, so I'll never understand why people use the setup on the road. Personal choice I guess. My advice is go for a good set of dampers which are slightly uprated. No need to go for adjustable dampers. I recently sold a set of Koni STRT's, and they were a very good way of uprating from the standard dampers. Add a set of slightly lowered springs (level front and rear and avoid the ones which lower the front more than the rear) and you will have a very nice setup. Good for spirited driving, yet still comfortable. Check all the bushes while you are at it, as a perished bush will make the uprated dampers/springs a complete waste of money. And a set of the Koni STRT's are actually much cheaper than the OE Sachs dampers, that's why they get my vote.

I'd echo what Butterfly has said. There are alot of Corrado's that look great on the surface, all nice and shiny. However, it is the bits that you don't see that are just if not more important. How many times on the forum has someone removed the front bumper to find worrying corrosion behind it? Many times. If concours Corrado's are going for around the £6,000 to £7000, then why would anyone pay more for one that would be best described as in good condition? Take a look at concours show winners and you'll see what the standard is. I recently looked at a concours show winning RS2000 which was well known on the RS scene. Every label, sticker was on the car. No welding or respray. Every part was OE and it was like it had just left the factory. It sold recently for I believe around £20,000. That car is 35years old and it is now a very very rare sight on todays roads. So a Corrado has some way to go and not there just yet...

Nice work. Really good to see someone doing the work themselves, and learning and picking up new skills along the way.

A case of the left hand not knowing what the right hand is doing. What ever happened to companies/people being able to understand and follow simple instructions? Very frustrating, but getting more and more common in the UK, hence why I want to emigrate and be out of this country.

Is that £750 for labour and including all of the parts? If so, then that's not that bad. However, I will be doing mine myself. I've only ever taken my car once to a garage, that was in 2000 and to a main VW franchise dealer. They didn't identify or rectify the problem (water leak from a cracked thermostat housing) and they just simply did a pressure test and normal service. So guess what, I didn't pay them a penny for the "diagnostics" or the service and did the repair work myself. Sorry, but I don't care what someones reputation is, I always do all of my own repairs and maintenance to my VR. I've had it for 12 years and it has not broken down or failed on me once. I've seen enough "repairs" to other cars to simply trust no one..... By the way, you don't need any special tools to do the timing chains. The only thing that you need that you may not have is a simple metal tool to lock the cams level, and you can make that very easily.

Well a car (for that matter anything else) is worth what someone is prepared to pay for it. However, the following are the prices used by the classic trade as a guide, and they are alot lower than some may think... Concours Mint Good Corrado G60 £5,250 £4,650 £2,000 Corrado VR6 £5,500 £4,750 £2,000 And for comparison, here a some Fords, which are higher than some would think... Sapphire Cosworth £8,000 £7,250 £4,000 Cosworth RS500 £25,000 £20,000 £12,500 Escort mk1 RS1600 £32,000 £26,000 £18,000 Escort RS Turbo £5,500 £4,500 £2,850 And as with any classic car, if they are modified in a "silly way" and they are not honest straight cars, then forget about these prices as they are worth far less.

lewvw, it's not guide wear that I'm worried about, but the age. My VR is low mileage (coming up to 80k), but it is 20 years old. The guides are made of plastics, so like all plastic stuff on a Corrado they'll be getting brittle and prone to failure. I know it's a long and expensive job to do properly, but I'd rather do it and have piece of mind (and so will the next owner if I sell it). The way I see it, it's cheaper than forking out for a 80k VR6 engine if they do fail.

MattPc, sorry mate, forgot to thank you for all of the info.