DriverVR6

The condition of the spare tyre is not part of the MOT **An externally fitted spare wheel or spare wheel carrier must not be so insecure that it is likely to fall off** And this is not applicable to a Corrado.

VWVW - Thanks for the info pal, very helpful. Why would you advise on using the mk4 tensioner? Karl - Better to be safe than sorry, and you know what I'm like about keeping it in tip top condition. It's more because of the chain guides than the chains. And as I now have the 16v to use I can take my time to do the VR without worrying about it being off the road.

I'm intending to do the timing chains, chain guides and tensioners on my VR6 in a couple of weeks. Just so that I can prepare for the shock and arrange a second mortgage, does anyone know what the approximate price is for all of the above? I already have the gaskets so it's just the chains/guides/tensioners I need to buy. Thanks. PS. I don't have that price/part number online catalogue that I've seen some people on here refer to (can't remember what it is called) and that's why I ask.

Yeah I can believe that she was no "lady" hence why I put it in inverted commas. Good luck with it, hope the insurance company cooperates and you can get a good result from a bad situation.

coolrado, oh dear, that's real bad luck. Ref the insurance, you won't have any choice but to go through your insurance as if the "lady" informs her insurance then they will get in touch with yours. Or am I missing something?

Drilling the airbox will not give you more power. It will only give you an induction roar. If it did then every F1 car, Rally Car would have a drilled airbox and racing teams would not spend a fortune fine tuning their intake systems. The only way of getting more power from a normally aspirated induction system is to force as much cold air as possible into it. You do this by having ducting that takes air from outside the engine compartment and feeding it into a closed induction system to create positive pressure. Cooler air is more dense that hot air. Therefore as the air is denser you can add more petrol to get increased power. To make it work effectively you have to have massive ducting and the car has to be moving into the air stream. The gains from the sort of normal DIY kits you buy are minimal. Modern induction systems are already pretty efficient, and big gains only happen when you are modifying older restrictive induction systems. When you turbo/super charge an engine you are doing exactly the same thing only taking it to the next level. The turbo forces in more air into the combustion chamber than would otherwise be sucked in under normal atmospheric pressure, And the intercooler cools this compressed air before it goes into the combustion chamber.

At least you've experienced Corrado ownership, so many people haven't, and as the numbers of roadworthy ones decline the chances that they ever will is getting less. Let us/the forum know what modern/newer car you decide to buy. ATB.

daves16v, the bonnet prop on my VR6 is the original one. I have had the car for 12 years and I've never changed or altered it, and I don't think the previous owners ever did and can't see any reason why anyone would, after all it's not something that wears out. It sits perfectly in its retaining clip and has never come loose. My VR6 is one of the first ones into the UK, so it's spec is a little different. It was an ex dealer demo car. It also has the spark plug lead tool in the boot tool kit which people keep saying should be on the bonnet prop. Well it isn't and sits in its own individual location in the tool kit. Could be the reason I still have mine and so many other people have lost theirs.....

I've attached two photos of the bonnet props on my VR6 and 16V. The VR6 one on mine is straight with very few bends. The 16v has many bends and looks like yours. Both sit perfectly on the slam panel when the bonnet is closed with no issues of rattling, coming loose.... Also, I've said this before, but the spark plug removal tool is not always located on the bonnet prop. Mine is located in its own designated place in the toolkit in the boot together with the jack.

Anne, you have a couple of Rally legends in that list. Only reason Lancia Integrale EVO (& BMW M3 E30) didn't make my top 10 is because they weren't made in RHD. RS500, I wonder how many good unmodified ones there are left out there? MK1 Escort BDA, the forests don't sound the same without one of these flying through....

I'm after a complete set of Front & Rear door cards for an early VR6. The ones I want are the cloth ones which I would describe as Grey/Green in colour. I have previously had people say that they have got them and when I've gone to pay and collect they have turned out to be 16v ones, which are NOT the same colour or the same texture of cloth. I would like to see them before I buy so you would need to be fairly local. I will put up pictures later to show the colour/texture of the ones that I need. Thanks.

Yeah it's a shame you're not closer and can't collect. The suspension is in really good used condition with all the bolts/fixings and was off a 94 2.0 16v. I always strip everything down before I sell to make sure it is in full working order. Hope you manage to source a good set soon. ATB.

Standard airbox is the way to go. The intake you have removed has a venturi effect that increases the airspeed, although I do not know how much of an effect it actually has. Induction kits (regardless of which one you go for although some are better than others) require a huge cold air intake to give the "ram effect" to see any increase in power, and it needs to be a closed system to generate the pressure. And the Corrado just does not have the underbonnet space to locate that size of air feed, unless you heavily modify the front of the car.

If money was no object, and I could have them brand new then this would be my choice; (1) McLaren F1 (The daddy, and they'll never be another car like this ever again.....) (2) Ferrari 288 GTO (3) Lamborghini Miura SV/Jota (4) Porsche GT3 RS 4.0 (5) Honda NSX (6) Pagani Zonda Tricolore (6) Ferrari Daytona (7) Mk1 Lotus Cortina (8.) Mk1 Escort RS1600 BDA (9) Jaguar E Type V12 Roadster (10) Porsche 911 Turbo 930 (1984) Sorry, no place for a Corrado in my top 10, but it would make it into my top 25.

Good to have you back mate. Look forward to the updates of your progress.

Hi, I've weighed the complete suspension and it is way over 30kg, so I would not be able to post it using standard royal mail, so you will need to arrange your own collection. To be honest I don't think it will be worth your while buying off me as I would want about £80 for it, and once you add your postal costs it will work out expensive for you. So it may be better if you wait until something comes up locally for you.

fla, I think this is the cause, a friend of mine had exactly the same symptoms, and this cured it completely. Try it, it takes about 30 mins to do, and you don't need to cut any wires. If it works great, if not, then you've only wasted 30 mins of your life. Relay, cable and a few connectors costs pennies.

8vMatt, I was just going to say make sure you don't lose the relay lol

Well if you do decide to buy one then my honest advice is this; Buy one that has been unmolested. If the seller says they have modified this and that, and changed this and that, then walk away. They are reliable cars if left alone, with just routine maintenance and servicing carried out by a competent person. Good luck.

Have you bought one or looking to buy one?

Difficult one mate, as unlike modern cars Corrados are too easy to steal. I personally like to have as may mechanical visible security devices on the car as possible. If you make it difficult, then hopefully they'll look elsewhere.

I think it would be costly to post as the front and rears with the springs, top mounts and bump stops would end up weighing quiet a bit. Let me get it weighed and priced and I'll come back to you tomorrow. I have the complete set and it's in perfect used condition. Once I know postage costs if it's worth your while we can work out a fair price, as I don't want to rob you. Unless someone comes up with another set for you tonight.

David, it's because they are morons who don't know their left hand from their right hand. Half the time they can't even use their own equipment they have installed...trust me, I've seen it many times. That's why they like you to sit in the waiting area so that you can't witness their incompetence!

Don't waste your money changing the ISV because it's unlikey to be the cause. If you have concerns about it then it's better to clean it out with carb cleaner as it won't do any harm cleaning it anyway.

I have the complete set front and rear. Where are you located?