colinstubbs

You could use passat rear door handles for the delocked look or audi 80 or audi a3 handles - the audi option needs audi locking mechs to be sourced as they operate in the opposite direction!. Do a search there's loads on here. The number plate plinth has three of these.... IMG_6184 (Large).JPG[/attachment:3doi262b] ....attached to 3 plastic spigots in recessed holes under the rear hatch cover (should unscrew), the bottom edge is held in by some very strong double sided tape.

Damn site better than THESE!

You may find that simply disconnecting and then reconnecting all you RCA plugs will sort the whine. Mine was suffering and whilst hunting the cause down we systematically did just that and it simply disappeared!! Result! It must have been a dirty connection 8)

Decided that tomorrow I'd better change my iginition switch after having about 30 attempts to start it after a probable job interview failure. :( Luckily I was round the corner out of view! :lol: 8)

Is that as in electrical storm :lol: :lol:

It's probably the locking mech not quite unlocking, rendering the internal and external handles inoperative. it's probably just a bit sticky, good lube up with wd40 and an good excercise of the lock/unlock mech should sort you out - hopefully :lol: 8)

I wouldn't have though so but the end cap in question is on the far left of the G/box and nothing to do with the CV joints/output shafts or dismatling anything complicated. You need to get under the C though to get to it I'd have thought.

Make sure you get all the screws there is a sneeky one accessed forward from the hole where the rear ashtray sits - unless it's already been boken by a previous owner!

I had a problem with 5th gear It would sometimes select ok and then start making a horrible noise, if i dropped to 4th it was fine - it turned out to be a sheared 5th cog retaining bolt which can be accessed through the end cap with the g/box in situ. The grinding sound was the synco teeth stopping it coming off!! :shock: No further damage! Vince at Stealth did mine because I thought if it was gonna get rebuilt it might as well be by him. :notworthy: As it was he was able to extract the bolt without dismantling the gear box. :clap: You could be that lucky! 8) :lol:

I'd have thought you could get it from your friendly Stealer. Can you not measure the hole and pop in to halfrauds?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=81498&p=943622&hilit=wiper+blank#p943622

The outside pics show it off much more nicely! 8) Is that a solid or metallic colour?

Take your pick of Samco suppliers CLICKY Try a Google but these are what you want no doubt! Twin filters! £256.22 delivered, is that good?? 8)

Unfortunately he's split his (!) and thrown it away!! :nuts: You'll need to sort this as you'll get chaffing of all the wires on the bulkhead and water ingress too no doubt. Could be a right bugger to sort now as you'll have to find the ends of the other wires, or you could (bodge it!) chop and resplice them inside the car, obviating the need to waterproof the joints. I have also put a dob (technical term :lol:) of sealant over the wires/grommet as with more than one wire going through the grommet you'll never get a perfect seal without it. You may as well just cut a cross in the new grommet bang the wires through and add sealant. 8)

Way too early to realistically predict the outcome you loons -guessing isn't the same!!!! :lol: :lol:

Take it out and scrub it gently with a nailbrush, water, clothes detergent, then hose it off to rinse it and allow to dry 8)

Replaced all the vacuum rubber hosing and the throttle body rubber boot (£50!). She didn't want to fire up but had a fiddle with the vacuum capsule thingie plug on the air metering head and it started :clap: . Not gone for a drive yet, should cure the gentle kangarooing on lift off!! Fingles-crossed :lol: Edit - No it hasn't but the shagged CV joints (multiple methinks) prob ain't helping none. :(

I'm thinking later single water-pump pulley and a shorter PAS belt is the easiest and cheapest option, could just do with some numbers in case the parts dept get confused now!! 8)

PM replied to mate tan for that!!

Pleasure mate 8)

Hello Tom, Welcome to the Forum click on the Buying Guide 8) 8)

I asked for the 9a pulley as that was quoted somewhere else as the way forward, can't find the bloody invoice now to confirm it. I know it's an ADU engine (below) but is this the sort of set-up you're talking about, although using the adjustability of the alternator rather than a seperate tensioner to tension the serp belt round the water pump and alternator? Would anyone have any part numbers handy for the serp pulleys, inc. alternator one? Ironically when I got a 90a alt I had to change over the pulleys cos it came with a serp belt one!! 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfAHU_with_no_AC.jpg[/attachment:1ryrs2tw] Another option with vee-belts? I don't know what the alignments are like at the moment? crank to alt - crank to Water and PAS pump.jpg[/attachment:1ryrs2tw] The later KRs go round the crank/water pump/alt and then the crank/PAS? Lots of ways to do it but that could be the easiest. As i said in my edit above i think I've cocked up!! I'll have to have a look at my engine and see what's what, easier than trying to visualise it..... ...... and getting confused in my tiny brain :lol: :lol:

mimjed are the EBC GreenStuff pads the earlier DP2517s (1989-1990)or later DP2841s(1990-ON)?? They are different shapes and thicknesses. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf1989-1990 1.8 16v front pad.jpg[/attachment:1o9bvdi7] later 1.8 & 2.0 16v 1990-ON front pads.jpg[/attachment:1o9bvdi7] I'd be interested in them if they're the DP2841s 8)

If the line-in has rca connectors just get an RCA-3.5mm adapter . 8)

In situ you can just waxoyl the crap out of it - lazy solution, easier with the rad out! :lol: