The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[jamminvr6storm 0]

heres an ATP manifold and a GT32 turbo for sale on ed38 http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... pic=201130 and at £500 its a chuffing bargain

 

Yep, its brand new too!

 

I am considering the charge cooler :D

[_leon_ 0]

I've not read through every page here - and everyones members threads - but what sort of problems/issues can you expect with trying to achieve a reliable VRT? I.e. one that can you can easily do a 2-3k alpine roadtrip completely trouble free and without any complications...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've done 28,000 miles with my VRT and aside from the initial teething problems, the only thing that's let me down repeatedly is coolant hoses. Namely, the little OE throttle bodie ones (used to feed the main turbo water hoses). They get hard and crack from the heat and called the AA out twice due to steam pouring out of the bonnet :lol:

 

Other than that, it's been fine. I had no qualms using it to move house last weekend. It was fully laden 10 times with heavy books, domestic subs, plasma TVs etc etc and it never missed a beat.....and it felt just as quick, LOL!

 

So anyway, as part of "Phase 2", I'll be uprating all the coolant lines with hardlines, like this:-

[_leon_ 0]

those look good Kev, where are they from? What is used on 1.8t's?

[KADVR6 0]

I've not read through every page here - and everyones members threads - but what sort of problems/issues can you expect with trying to achieve a reliable VRT? I.e. one that can you can easily do a 2-3k alpine roadtrip completely trouble free and without any complications...

 

 

got bored of the standard power output already eh mate :lol:

[_leon_ 0]

;) actually pretty content with it - but getting fidgety !

[black dub 0]

Black dub, your manifold looks a damn site better than mine, good luck with that. Personally I would go GT35, but if you do, I would upgrade to a 44mm Wastegate. If you go GT30, the 38mm Wastegate is OK for that. Both the GT30 and GT35 will be full boosting before 4000rpm if you go for the 0.82 back housing. Your stock manifold will give a better midrange - 3500 - 4000 rpm - and shouldn't be laggy.

 

Cheers i hope the manifold goes ok, its looking like i may be heading for the GT35 as i want power right to the end of the rev counter so looks like the Tial 38mm wastegate that i just brought will be going up for sale to get a 44mm one.

Any chance you could let me know the full details of the GT35 that i will need to know to order one.

the way the dollar is at the mo seems like ill just buy one from someone like AET turbos along with a XTR turbo jacket.

cheers

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Cheers i hope the manifold goes ok, its looking like i may be heading for the GT35 as i want power right to the end of the rev counter so looks like the Tial 38mm wastegate that i just brought will be going up for sale to get a 44mm one.

Any chance you could let me know the full details of the GT35 that i will need to know to order one.

the way the dollar is at the mo seems like ill just buy one from someone like AET turbos along with a XTR turbo jacket.

cheers

 

The one I've got is a GT3582R (R denotes ball bearing by the way) with a 0.82 AR turbine housing and 3" V band outlet, 0.70AR TO4S compressor housing.

 

There's also the 1.06 AR turbine option, which will really sing at the top end. With a 3" exhaust that will spool pretty quick too. The 0.82 will come in earlier though, but won't have quite the top end punch of the 1.06. It will still pull round to 7K no problem though.

[black dub 0]

The one I've got is a GT3582R (R denotes ball bearing by the way) with a 0.82 AR turbine housing and 3" V band outlet, 0.70AR TO4S compressor housing.

 

There's also the 1.06 AR turbine option, which will really sing at the top end. With a 3" exhaust that will spool pretty quick too. The 0.82 will come in earlier though, but won't have quite the top end punch of the 1.06. It will still pull round to 7K no problem though.

 

cool cheers for that, also i see in an earlier post that someone said you may be changing your manifold to an ATP if this is true will you be getting a new down pipe as i will be needing one like your current one.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

cool cheers for that, also i see in an earlier post that someone said you may be changing your manifold to an ATP if this is true will you be getting a new down pipe as i will be needing one like your current one.

 

Yes indeed I will need a new downpipe. You're welcome to my old one, but it depends when you're planning on installing yours because I may not get round to doing the ATP for another month or two yet?

[black dub 0]

cool cheers for that, also i see in an earlier post that someone said you may be changing your manifold to an ATP if this is true will you be getting a new down pipe as i will be needing one like your current one.

 

Yes indeed I will need a new downpipe. You're welcome to my old one, but it depends when you're planning on installing yours because I may not get round to doing the ATP for another month or two yet?

 

thats great, ill have it off ya when your ready thanks. i still have a lot to do before i install the turbo as i want to sort out the OBD2 loom before i fit the turbo, also mount the intercooler + sort out the pipework for it and im looking at buying one of those Zeitronix Controllers for monitoring EGT, A/R and boost all in one gauge so loads to do.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

OK mate, sounds like our plans may align then :D

 

My down pipe is for the 38mm Tial though, so it will need the flange changing to the 44mm's V band one if you go down that route.

[black dub 0]

thats no worries as i can do that i just didnt realy fancy making the complete down pipe from scratch. cheers

[mariojoshi 1]

http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2375_Triple-layered-Metal-Headgasket-VR6-for-Increased-Compression.html

 

Thoughts guys?

Would appear to save having to sandwich seperate gaskets together? Is this a little bit on the cheap side?!

I was wondering about spacer gaskets etc for a while... that looks good, but I'm not sure what the compression change would be?

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

thats the US style later 3 layer gasket,seperate them,and remove the centre gasket and ass the steel spacer plate.

 

Thats it,cheap and easy and many including myself run this method.

[CrazyDave 0]

I've not read through every page here - and everyones members threads - but what sort of problems/issues can you expect with trying to achieve a reliable VRT? I.e. one that can you can easily do a 2-3k alpine roadtrip completely trouble free and without any complications...

 

As with most things its's down to the 6 P's....... Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

 

Quality of some of the parts is a bit suspect, cast manifolds is the one that springs to mind. So far mines held out and been fine for just over 9k miles (and OK I only run about 8psi). That includes a trip to the Nurburgring last year with about 1500miles added to the clock, the only problem I had was the rear brake caliper nearly fell off :? It ran like a dream, was great on fuel when cruising, and scared the sh!t out of me round the track!

 

The main reliability issue seems to be adequate heat protection for anything near the turbo. Now that Kev's mentioned water feed pipes it's gone straight on my list of things to check :) Things are always going to get warm near the charger so putting extra effort in that area will make it reliable. Good cooling of charge air is also important.

 

As for how long they'll last..... my rule of thumb is, double the power, half the life.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

As with most things its's down to the 6 P's....... Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

 

:lol: its funny but so true!

[zak 0]

I once said that i didnt like the way vr6 turbo engines looked because they can look messy, but i like the one below. Not because of the chrome but the layout is so neat. The guys even retained the oem airbox.

 

 

For anyone interested the guys got a build up of his car here http://corrado-vr6t.magix.net/

[Kevin Bacon 5]

HGP in Germany also use the factory air box - http://www.hgp-turbo.de/vw/vr6g.htm

 

I don't give a rat's arse what it looks like under the bonnet. Cars are for driving, not looking at.

[zak 0]

it must be a hgp kit that guys using too as he has a hgp inlet

[KADVR6 0]

i understand what your saying Zak,they can look messy when its just all thrown together!! but Shauns engine bay is not what you call messy is it??

 

 

and that's loads tidier than a standard g60 engine.

[StormchargedVR6 0]

Its not easy making VRT install tidy, have thought about using the OEM air box 8)

[CrazyDave 0]

Its not easy making VRT install tidy, have thought about using the OEM air box 8)

 

Bet yours flows enough air to suck it flat like a tin can!

 

Had a few people comment on how much 'stuff' is under my bonnet. The other one is 'all that lot for only 290hp', that one makes me smile. I love my mid range torque monster :lol:

 

Not really bothered, it's plenty quick enough for me and not bad for something I knocked up at home on the drive 8)

[CTWG60 0]

Its not easy making VRT install tidy, have thought about using the OEM air box 8)

 

Bet yours flows enough air to suck it flat like a tin can!

 

Had a few people comment on how much 'stuff' is under my bonnet. The other one is 'all that lot for only 290hp', that one makes me smile. I love my mid range torque monster :lol:

 

Not really bothered, it's plenty quick enough for me and not bad for something I knocked up at home on the drive 8)

 

Yes it's funny how people judge an engine on it's looks and hp figures. That guy has sprayed all his fluid bottles silver, err colour coded his fluid bottles! That's just form over function!

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

If everything is in its place neat and tidy,no matter how much "stuff" is in the bay then thats a tidy install imop.