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Kempy

My Satin Valver. issues :( water/electrics

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Might be worth Checking if the downpipe is knocking on arb If your Is lowered, my old valver had a similar problem when accelerating.

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It gets faster as I go faster so I tend to think it's to do with the hubs/wheels but I had those all balanced yesterday

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Having several things happen now which is worrying

 

Losing coolant, cant find any leaks, nothing on the floor. It goes very quickly. I need to put in about a litre daily. I'm not even using the car, just starting it up an idling for a bit.

Oil pressure lights on on fast idle, I'm getting a new switch tomorrow in case its that.

 

But with that and the coolant and general crap running, I'm thinking head gasket?

 

Thing is, I put a new gasket on when I fitted the KR head about 2/3 years ago and only very recently have I been driving the car, It only just been MOT'd for the first time in bout 5 years. how could the gasket go already?

 

Is there another way the coolant could be lost? I constantly have the coolant level light on even once I've topped it up. Can it be to do with the oil pressure issue? I'll check again tomorrow for coolant loss, I topped it up earlier, if I check tomorrow and its gone down and the floor is dry, whats going on? :)

 

Thanks

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I'm pretty sure if you were loosing that amount of water through the HG youd notice poor running and signs of it in the oil. Did you bleed the water system properly when you topped up after changing the HG? Water level warning could be the points on the expansion tank being clogged with scale and other such crap, so may be worth changing that, but was it you that changed your clocks recently? Could be a duff replacement....

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I fitted a new expansion tank, when putting it all back together. I replaced all the coolant when I fitted the new head/gasket with g13.

 

I'm waiting on another set of clocks, oil switch and a pressure gauge so should know more soon but there's definitely nothing nasty in the oil/mayo as you'd expect with a blown gasket

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Righto some updates.. I've fixed the oil pressure, there isn't anything wrong just had a short on the wire to the sensor. But I had to fit a gauge to realise it was just a wire :bonk:

 

So the buzzer doesnt sound now

 

Clocks are all sorted now, got myself some proper early valver ones! thanks clumpy

 

do have a coolant leak which I was really worried about but have discovered its come from the reservoir, still annoying as its new. ( can I take it back to VW? I got it from TPS)

 

It needs tune up really, we got a local place that'll test it all out, so I'll take it there in the new year. Then I need an auto electrician as my electrics in the car are shocking :dance:

 

But I'm less worried than before, as I thought bad things like new engines and that

 

I still got that knocking but I'm sure it's just a bearing

 

Happier

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Glad you got the clock's ok Ryan not a problem mate glad I could help :) It's good to know that a car being broken isn't just going in the bin I will try and recycle as much as possible. Look's like your making good progress Love the A1 too thought about getting one before they came out but circumstance's changed.

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Not so positive.

 

Losing coolant. I had seen a leak in the tank so I've bought, a very cheap ecp tank and there's no leak from there anymore. I got a blue cap and it's such a bad fit on tank, it's so tight, but no leaks. Problem is its still losing coolant. I've read that it's possibly leaking through the gasket info the cylinder as I have smoke/steam coming from the exhaust.

 

Do you guys think the same?

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Thats what mine did...turned out to be the headgasket leaking. As I fixed one leak another would appear

Are your coolant pipes rock hard after a run?

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Not sure. The fan works fine and the temp doesn't get too high, it's always been quite Smokey/steamy for a while. The head gasket is fairly new, it's not done many miles.

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Righto

 

Been out driving the car about tonight. I drove it for almost 10 miles and I thought the temps were very high, oil 110 and coolant almost 120. I pulled over and let it cool down, the coolant cap wasnt loose but I was able to turn it two more times, so it was fully tight. There was coolant sprayed on the bonnet. Anyway drove it back and now the cap was fully tight now, the drive back had no such issues with temps. Got home let it cool. Filled up tank again went for another drive and the temps got high again but let it settle and they actually dropped and settled to just between 100-110 and oil low 90's drove around abit more and they stayed at these temps. Im not using proper coolant right now just water. Anyway whilst this was happening the warning lamp was on the whole time, the tank must be knackered.. Or some other wiring for it

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You should be running the engine with coolant Ryan water is not enough even at this time of year ;)

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The expansion bottle lid has to seal in order for the coolant system to work properly, if it doesn't the system won't pressurise and instead will spew coolant out the bottle top - as you found.

 

At this time of year it is essential to have a decent mix of anti freeze in your coolant! You're right about the sensor playing up, its built into the bottle but a new one is only barely over a tenner. Probably best to get new bottle, new lid (blue) and flush coolant system in one hit ready for winter.

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I'll get g12+ tomorrow. Flush the system. Don't really want to spend nearly £50 on a tank but may need to, to solve the warning lamp issue

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I just bought a new tank from ECP and I've binned it, the cap don't fit and the plug doesn't fit on. If I buy new/ 2nd hand it'll be oem. As the other cheap ones don't cut it.

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Evening all..

 

Put some tidy coolant in today and this works in regards to the tank knowing there's coolant there, so no warning lamp so far. Got engine warm oil 80-90 whilst on the drive and coolant was about 100. No lamps. Took it out for a spin again same as yesterday. I think if I kept at 60 the oil would stay at 90 and coolant 110. I'm not gonna drive like that everywhere so I sped up and the oil and coolant both got a lot higher and the lamps came on. Pulled over and coolant level was still good.. I'm thinking now fan speeds and weather it's comes on at high temps and it's enough to cool everything down.? Thanks again.. Or water pump, which has been mentioned on clubgti

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That will be a water pump then. My theory being, that when you are driving around you don't need the fan to be at all. The fans should really only be working if you are stationary in order to draw air through the radiator that would otherwise be getting pushed through by forward motion.

 

On my 16v golf I had a passat radiator that was larger than a factory item , a standard oil cooler set up, standard G11 and OE thermostat and even on track I wouldn't see the temperatures you are seeing during road use.

 

If you remove the coolant lid and run the engine do you see a constant flow of coolant back through the radiator return pipe ?

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