My Satin Valver. issues :( water/electrics

[aide 0]

nope no pics am afraid, do a google image search you never know what you'll turf up, pretty sure its diagrammatically shown in haynes if you have one.

[Kempy 0]

Ok I now have spark :D yeay... The 3 pin plug into the dizzy is damaged and one of the pins wasnt going into spades. Just a little simple fix in the end..

 

Now I dont have fuel in the injectors but the pump is priming and I have fuel and a good spray from the cold start valve..

 

so Im nearly there 8-) what to check now??

[aide 0]

yeah the hall senders can be problematic, my last one had cracked too

 

fuel side of things can be even more complex am afraid, valver injectors are mechanical and need very high pressure to open, the cold start is solenoid controlled so doesn't, my guess is you either have an air lock in the metering head or lack of pressure, if you haven't tampered with the fuel set up i'd go with the latter, when was the last time you had it running?

[Kempy 0]

around 12months ago...I ve changed the fuel lines from the metering head because the first one looked dodgy and twisted. how would I sort the pressure or an airlock, is there a way to bleed it?

[aide 0]

that's quite a long time, i know my 2nd valver used to be cranking fest to start if even left for a week, if left over holidays i found my valver used to start better from cold with a charged battery or with helping hand from jump leads.

 

there's an accumulator on valvers immediately after the fuel pump which is supposed to maintain system pressure when the pump isn't running, these fail over time and mean pressure is gradually lost, this means the pump has to work a little harder initially, and even though they're bullet proof I always felt age must have compromised it's performance a little, i was too skint in those days to replace everything like that and just lived with it, a little more battery juice seemed to do the trick in any case :grin:

 

there's ways of testing the pressure but you need a pressure guage, a valved T piece and some fuel pipe, without these the only way to check you have pressure is to listen to the pump prime on ignition then slightly undo any of the banjos on top of the metering head or preferably the injector connector, fuel should surge out, don't do it with fag in hand though.

[Kempy 0]

there is deffo fuel in the metering head, so you suggest cranking the beans out of it?? an loosen off one of the banjos to see if anythings coming through. how much cranking are we talking here?

[aide 0]

yeh haha, i had to crank for maybe two or three minutes before it would stutter into life, it would then be fine until left to stand for any lenght of time again

 

its obviously not ideal as its ignoring an issue, but it may get you going

 

have you tried that 'easy start' stuff it's like aerated fuel you spray round the air box inlet when cranking? it's like coke for cars :grin:

[Kempy 0]

i will try mega cranking :lol: Im not sure about some other stuff tbh... I got a 4 branch but the lambda isnt long enough to fit now, also I didnt have panel air filter fitted :lol: ..so i was worried about the mixture. So theres nothing electrical that can be stopping the metering of the fuel just no pressure? where in the airbox do I spary the easy start stuff?

 

And another thing :lol: I didnt notice before I started the work on the car that the charcoal filter is basically not being used, is this a thing people do?

[Kempy 0]

So the valver is running now :clap: not 100% perfectly though, it doesnt idle but Ive been told the ISV is probably ceased up and can be sorted quite easily. The also was a clicking which I couldnt tell what it was but its coming from the belts and pullys area. As it wouldnt idle I couldnt check exactly what it was cause I was in the cockpit 8) keeping the revs up. So Im thinking a fresh set of brake pads and it'll be MOTed :clap:

[Kempy 0]

Still not quite running properly, its not idling. Im thinking its an air vacuum problem because the car wont start unless the throttle is fully open( this still takes alot of cranking). I didnt notice till today I had no air filter, would this stop it from idling? What else can I check to help to get the car running and timed properly..

 

thanks again

[Kempy 0]

on the rhs of head you should have 3 of the water temp sensors (to gauge, ecu and idle control unit) and then the 2 pin larger thermo-time-switch which controls the cold start injector at the end of the inlet manifold

 

The Cold start injector works so I assume the 2 pin is in the correct place? I was thinking of moving it to where it is on the 9a head. but as it works im not sure now.. why wont it idle :scratch: :( I shall try my IsV off the daily to eliminate it.

[Wild-Animal 0]

Have you checked all of your vacuum pipes ? If you can get a tester for your fuel pressure.

[Kempy 0]

Ive not tbh, how will I know if they are damaged? The car idled before I changed the head

[Kempy 0]

did idle for a bit today :norty:

[Kempy 0]

looking show room fresh :lol:

 

back in the tidy barn now, I drove it there :D

[aide 0]

sorry mate, just stumbling accross your thread again and see you asked a q a while back.

 

positive its idling a little, but you must get that lamba plugged back in, extend the wiring, otherwise your ecu will be adjusting fuel mixture based on fresh air!

[Kempy 0]

fair enough, A mate told me they were running there's without a probe. SO its pretty important then :lol: :lol:

[Kempy 0]

Apparently before I started working on the car today, my mate fired it up 1st time and it idled :)

 

 

 

looked like this when I left :eek:

 

I done lots of fun stuff on the car today:

 

firstly I took of the lambda probe so that I can extend it to fit the 4 branch, easy

Removed lower manifold to gain easier access to the water flange at the front because it was leaking when the car was running, it got hot too quick to, so I decided to remove the thermostat ( never done these before ). Turns out the thermostat is bust so that'll help the overheating I hope. The flange needs replacing, the lip where the seal goes was broke A little worrying was that there was a little mayo in the flange, could that be something to do with it being a little bit of oil somewhere during my rebuild, would some coolant flush sort it??? :shrug:

 

So I need a couple of new gaskets, a flange and water seal, and a PS pump belt, coolant bottle cap conversion maybe....

 

Then I think it'll be cool, just need a sesh with a strobe for the timing

:D

[Kempy 0]

getting slowly nearer to a running engine :D I do seem to take 3 steps back and 2 forward though but I'm learning from my mistakes. Most recent one being over tightening of the copper seats for the fuel injectors in my manifold. need to replace the plastic guide tubes and the seals :? I recently bought

 

A thermostat - fitted today

Belt for PS pump - fitted today

Also replaced as many as possible of the annoying hose clamps with jubilee clips.. FTW

New flange on the front of the head after cracking the lip on the inside - fitted today (need to do same job on the daily :censored: )

New coolant tank - not fitted till I flush the system

 

once the manifold and fuel injectors are refitted I will get the timing sorted and engine flushed

 

Then I will need some disks and pads and 4 new Tyres :censored:

 

getting there

[Kempy 0]

Had to replace the injector inserts and seals today, so I did that and fitted new gaskets to the manifolds. She fired up 1st time :clap: and Idled nicely. I will need timing on the strobe though. I ran the engine till warm and it appears that I got no leaks :clap: thermostat works to. But.. the fan never came on and I didnt get any readings on the MFA nor the needle. I need to test the fan off the battery.

 

I cant remember if the needle worked before TBH or the MFa Oil temp. What can I do to fix these few things?

 

a little vid of it running :D

[youtube:1swjn0a3]iTnbgRTPugc[/youtube:1swjn0a3]

 

Ive also started to paint the underside of the bonnet, its taking a while :roll:

[rsgntx 0]

Glad you got it running, its coming together...

[Kempy 0]

well chuffed its running on its own :lol:

[Kempy 0]

ok yesterday I started this job, my granddad and I decided to use a plywood plug for the recess. I wasn't sure about this to start tbh and still not sure how it'll last over time. Anyway I cut the shape out on the ban-saw Then I chambered it a bit as the recess is bigger at the bottom that the top. Then countersunk some screws into it and the bumper. Once it was in place I planed the top a bit and around the edge of the plywood.

 

 

Once I felt that I done that enough I fibre glassed around the edges and the top to build it up more to create a better shape.

 

 

Once that went off I smoothed everything with filler ftw.

 

 

 

then I couldnt resist putting some paint on it.. just see my handy verk

 

[OllieVR6 0]

Great stuff mate, this is something I want to do, and wasn't sure how to begin. I'm not starting it yet so I'll wait to see how it looks in a few months, can't see it being a problem though!

[Kempy 0]

theres a few ways you can do it i suppose. how are you thinking about doing it? you could fill it all in but i think that might weigh lots. with all the sanding theres only a small amont of filler on mine