oneohtwo's VR6 - New Engine!

[ABV-VR6 12]

A pleasure to look at, keep up the good work and keep those nice pictures coming, they will help me once I put my engine together lol.
Cheers mate

[oneohtwo 8]

Will do!

I've been fiddling about with the exhaust manifolds. Found a product from Eastwood that purports to be a heat resistant coating for the inside of the tubes, and will help keep under bonnent temps down. Could just be snakeoil but some chap on Youtube tested it with one of his manifolds, leaving the other uncoated and it seemed to have an effect of reducing temps by 50-100 degrees. Not the most scientific, but seemed reasonable. Not expensive anyway, even if it all flakes off in a couple of weeks...!

It's a faff to clean out the bores, but applying it isn't too bad. It comes with an extension nozzle you stick down the bores which is supposed to give a 360 spray, but instead it sort of splutters out into a big pool at the bottom and you have to roll it around. Then it leaks out the end. Easy enough with these small manifolds, but wouldn't fancy it on anything bigger you can't see down!

Also ground off some of the casting seams inside, which might help things flow a bit better - they are rough as anything. One bonus of the coating does help smooth those out a bit! Had plenty of paint left over so sprayed the outside as well to cover up the run marks. Might keep the corrosion at bay for a bit...

I've seen a few reports saying the stock manifolds are pretty good compared compared to the various stainless 6-2-1 manifolds knocking about the place, but they don't look especially conducive to good flow... rinsing them out with water just shows where the flow goes, the pipes from the farthest cylinders come in at almost 90 degrees to the main flow. Also they're not really merge evenly. Some pipes seem to merge almost immediately after exiting the head, into a bigger chamber. I don't know much about these things to be honest, but thought it of interest.

Edited March 4, 2021 by oneohtwo

[Dox 23]

52 minutes ago, oneohtwo said:

Will do!

I've been fiddling about with the exhaust manifolds. Found a product from Eastwood that purports to be a heat resistant coating for the inside of the tubes, and will help keep under bonnent temps down. Could just be snakeoil but some chap on Youtube tested it with one of his manifolds, leaving the other uncoated and it seemed to have an effect of reducing temps by 50-100 degrees. Not the most scientific, but seemed reasonable. Not expensive anyway, even if it all flakes off in a couple of weeks...!

It's a faff to clean out the bores, but applying it isn't too bad. It comes with an extension nozzle you stick down the bores which is supposed to give a 360 spray, but instead it sort of splutters out into a big pool at the bottom and you have to roll it around. Then it leaks out the end. Easy enough with these small manifolds, but wouldn't fancy it on anything bigger you can't see down!

Also ground off some of the casting seams inside, which might help things flow a bit better - they are rough as anything. One bonus of the coating does help smooth those out a bit! Had plenty of paint left over so sprayed the outside as well to cover up the run marks. Might keep the corrosion at bay for a bit...

I've seen a few reports saying the stock manifolds are pretty good compared compared to the various stainless 6-2-1 manifolds knocking about the place, but they don't look especially conducive to good flow... rinsing them out with water just shows where the flow goes, the pipes from the farthest cylinders come in at almost 90 degrees to the main flow. Also they're not really merge evenly. Some pipes seem to merge almost immediately after exiting the head, into a bigger chamber. I don't know much about these things to be honest, but thought it of interest.

VW spent time and money developing the manifolds (as well as the cylinder head) to the point aftermarket don't flow or work any better and tubular tend to crack. Due to the cylinder configuration 3 front exhaust ports are longer than the back set (inlets are the opposite) so OE and aftermarket are working with a compromise due to the uniqueness of the engine, on the upside we get the noise!

[ABV-VR6 12]

Very interesting information Dox, thanks for sharing. 

Oneohtwo, we'll see what happens with the paint and yes, I guess there's not much to loose... 

I'm going to see if I can do a diy polish to mine. Cheers 

[Keyo 47]

Im not a fan of aftermarket manifolds especially headers - they drone on the motorways - they make the engine bay hotter- you cant hear or feel the engine if its working spot on whilst driving. 

The best exhaust systems are the vag long life but are heavy very heavy. Ive just purchased an ugly downpipe for the 16v which came with a silencer from factory but a 16v has a horrible rasp and drone without it .- 8v do not need one. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hosenrohr-Vorschalldampfer-VW-GOLF-II-GTI-16V-KR-RHD-Rechtslenker-LEISTRITZ/124154357427

The exhaust is a German company called LEISTRITZ - they were the oe manufactures of VAG exhausts and in this case it cost me £200.00 inc postage- the same exhaust with the vag stamp is 699 euro from classics- so I love when an nos Leistritz (no longer made) comes on the market I snap it up absolute quality and they are all long life. 

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/abgasrohr-f0752d.html

Picture example they are the OE. 

So if you want an oe exhaust that may will be obsolete look out foe Leistritz - I believe they made them for the Corrado as well. 

 

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by Keyo

[oneohtwo 8]

Yes, heard the same about the aftermarket headers so would always try and avoid. My exhaust is already a bit droney and I'd like to sort that, so wouldn't wantto make it worse! Just couldn't work out the stock manifolds.

Interesting info about Leistritz, thanks. Not heard of them before. 

Managed to fit the headers - my word that's a pain in the arse. Much swearing involved! My advice is to fit the OS one to the down pipes and torque it up first, then the NS one to the downpipes, and finally you can then hook them both onto the head. 

[oneohtwo 8]

So I bought a new Sachs clutch slave cylinder, went to fit it and inevitably the existing union bolt is seized in the cylinder and rounds off. No more work that day! Off comes the whole clutch line. Anyway, bought a Hel replacement which arrived today:

As you'd expect all looks very smart, did a quick test fit and seems fine, so should be all systems go at the weekend.

[1xshaunx1 27]

2 hours ago, oneohtwo said:

So I bought a new Sachs clutch slave cylinder, went to fit it and inevitably the existing union bolt is seized in the cylinder and rounds off. No more work that day! Off comes the whole clutch line. Anyway, bought a Hel replacement which arrived today:

As you'd expect all looks very smart, did a quick test fit and seems fine, so should be all systems go at the weekend.

Nice. What’s the Hel part number for that please?

[oneohtwo 8]

It's CCK068:

HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay

HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay

Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com)

Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. 

I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.

[fendervg 33]

Interesting - was looking at these a few years back. Some of them seem to have a nearly 90 degree bend on the solid pipe section, others not as much - I wonder if this makes any difference when fitting?

 

[oneohtwo 8]

Couldj ust be some stock photos and not the actual part? Although a 90 degree fitting might mean it could clip into the first plastic clip better.

Couple of pics of it fitted:

Annoyingly the plastic lug of the top pipe clip snapped off so had to cable tie everything together to keep in nice and secure. 

 

[oneohtwo 8]

I am very, very close to having the re-build finished! So couple of pictures to round up things up a bit:

Tidied up manifolds on. Slightly scratched the inner coating on the studs when I was wrestling them on, so I guess that coating won't last long. Ah well..

Got the new bit of heat shield on to smarten up the back of the bay:

And something of a pièce de résistance, that makes the VR6, the upper manifold on:

Been looking forward to getting that on for an absolute age. Feels like the engine is pretty well complete and on the home straight! Fitted all the ISV gubbins, throttle body and intake bits as well:

My plan was to leave all the plastic trim off the top of the block,  but I forgot how untidy the VR6 looks with all the ancillary bits, like the ISV and the coil pack, stuck on. So I think I will put the side trim on, and maybe the rear. Will see how it looks. Obviously will leave the plastic cover off with the manifold done up, and probably the front wire guide as well. 

I am now just waiting for a couple of hoses from Roose which should be arriving early next week to finish off the engine bay. Then I need to sort the slimline fans on the radiator - got a shroud sorted so should just be a case of hooking up the wiring, and then fit the B12s on the rear once it's off the axle stands again. After that it's just a case of crossing fingers and hoping it runs!

 

 

Edited March 26, 2021 by oneohtwo

[Cressa 44]

Loving the top cover colouring. Keep up the great work, looks great👍

[oneohtwo 8]

Thanks! It's actually the manifold powder coated. Was trying to replicate the classic crackle finish you see on most exotic Italian cars' cam covers and some classics, but felt grey suited VW more than black or some bright red. Had the logo and lettering cut out in aluminium and stuck on to make it look like cast. Annoyingly if you look closely there is a slight gap on some letters that I should have filled in but  thought the powder would do it, which slightly mars the effect!

[ABV-VR6 12]

That intake is very unique and stunning, good thinking outside the box! It's looking real good!

[oneohtwo 8]

Ta! I Trying to put my own personal touch on things. 

Bit of a shitter of a day though... was time to start bleeding the brakes. Went to undo the rear brake bleed nipple, but it was so seized it sheared off. I knew everything was going a bit too smoothly... am in a big bind as well as we are moving house on Tuesday and the new place doesn't have a garage. Was always up against it time pressure wise so couldn't afford anything like this.

If I had more time I could drill it out and get a new one, but realistically think the only option is to arrange a tow to a garage and get them to do it. Bit gutted. 

[fendervg 33]

If you have a small butane torch, a bit of heat can loosen these nicely because the calliper body is alloy.  I make a point of never going near these without a proper five or six sided brake spanner or a hollow ratchet socket (Halfords used to do a nice set). Can you hammer a torx/spline bit or driver in enough to allow you to apply enough twisting force to shift it?

[oneohtwo 8]

I don't have a torch unfortunately, but the problem was I was able to get a bit of force on it... So much so it sheared off!

[Dox 23]

If it snapped you can’t have got air inside so the car is still safe to drive?

 

 

[oneohtwo 8]

I'm not quite following, sorry. Why would it snap off if there was no air in the system?

I had the brake lines off at the other end and the reservoir is empty so won't air likely get trapped when I refill?

[Dox 23]

2 hours ago, oneohtwo said:

I'm not quite following, sorry. Why would it snap off if there was no air in the system?

I had the brake lines off at the other end and the reservoir is empty so won't air likely get trapped when I refill?

I thought you were bleeding new fluid through, I didn’t know you’d replaced lines. 
 

replace the calliper if you already have air in the system 

[oneohtwo 8]

Ah, yes I replaced the front lines, but had to disconnect the rear lines at the ABS unit in order to get the clutch line out and the replacement in (different story).

Do you think it needs a whole new calliper and not just a new bleed valve? To be honest I was concerned about getting the old bit out - normally it could be drilled out but I don't see how you could prevent debris from entering the cylinder.

 

[fendervg 33]

If it's not completely damaged or sheared off, you should be ok getting it out. This happens all the time on rear callipers, so a mechanic should have plenty of experience. A blast with some compressed air will clear it out, and  a bleed will take other residue out. Only thing is, if the nipples are seized in, it's possible the calliper could do with a rebuild or replacement as well - a good time to upgrade to Mk4 rears maybe?

[oneohtwo 8]

Hmmm, yes hat's not a bad idea. They do look in a pretty sorry state. Found a nice rotten bit of the arch as well when I was under there which will need looking at at some point...  joy!

I don't think I have enough time to get the parts together for the Mk4s so I may have to just get this sorted, then think about the upgrade later. 

[oneohtwo 8]

I have managed to get the calliper off, so new plan is to hopefully find a local garage open tomorrow I can drop it off at and see if they can replace the valve. 

Possible alternative is I found some no-brand brand (Frankberg... nope, me neither) on Amazon which could be delivered tomorrow.

Brake Caliper Rear Right for Golf III IV Passat Polo Sharan Vento Cordoba Galaxy 1988-2010 1H0615424A: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Was thinking could get that, stick it on the car as a temporary measure to get it up and running then get proper new ones all-round. Even as a temporary measure I'm a bit loathe to risk some no-mark nonsense brand though...

Actually EuroCarParts has Pagid calipers in stock. £180... which is a bit steep but at least it is a relatively decent known brand.

Edited April 2, 2021 by oneohtwo