Back to a non starter , spluttery again !!!!

[robrado974 1]

Today ive had a John Clease moment , shouted at the c and told her there will not be a tax disc after october . Seriously i am at a total loss now . I have had another fuel pump fitted , had the bar pressure tested and a new fuel presure regulator . A new dizzy , hallsender , speed sensor and plugs . Its been on a vagcom and reads clear apart from the lambda sensor . All the electrics have been cleaned ,all be it a while back .Ive checked all the hoses and pipes around the throttle body , changed and cleaned the isv .The only thing that was pointed out the other day is the ht leads are a bit corroded , but i still have a spark and a new set will arrive next week .When i had exhausted all my efforts i put it in a garage to be looked at , they tested fuel pressure and it was fine , fitted a new regulator and it started fine for two weeks , then it started to fire on the second turn of the key and has gone down hill since then so much so it will not fire up at all now . Where do i go from here ???. I will try the new leads when they arrive next week ,but i doubt it will sort the problem . I have been out tonight and turned the key three or four times without turning it over to prime the system and it fired up when i tried , this is pointing to fuel again but surely when i was trying to start it this morning it was still priming ? so whats the difference . I think the problem is so intermittent its going to be a right pain in the arse to find .

Yours at a total loss ,

Rob

Edited March 10, 2014 by robrado974

[easypops 8]

Ignition switch? Possibly worth bypassing it to rule it out?

Only saying as mine was a sluggish starter for a long time, getting progressively worse, did the hotwire thing and it was like a different car........new switch and has been as good as gold

[robrado974 1]

Yep could be worth a try , I did check when I had starting problems about two years back , am I right in remembering that the black switch is the new one and White is the old ? . I'm pretty sure mine is black , but could be worth replacing all the same .

[clumpy1 11]

Coilpack??

[robrado974 1]

Its a 92 clumpy , so there is a coil with one lead going to a dizzy . I would have thought that the coil would have come up on the vagcom , having said that the electronics on the car are quite primitive compared to say , an r32, well obviously! but the point im tying to make is my mate was telling me when something goes wrong on it , the vagcom will not only tell you whats busted but when it went wrong as well . I believe later vr's being a bit more advanced ,have more parts hooked up to register on the vagcom .

[clumpy1 11]

So it's an early VR6 I don't know a right lot myself yet Rob but like you say with it being a bit primitive compared to later vr's maybe this has something to do with it. Get an R32 in there mate it would be good to have 2 DBP R32's ;) Sorry I couldn't have been more help.

[robrado974 1]

No worries mate , can't afford the swop I'm afraid , that an the fact that I like the car as standard .

[clumpy1 11]

Yeah know what your saying mate I would love it if mine was still a G60 you will resolve your issue's I'm sure :study::clap:

[CazzaVR 0]

Worth checking the ignition switch- changed mine yesterday and it's all good again.

[clumpy1 11]

Worth checking the ignition switch- changed mine yesterday and it's all good again.

Like I said in my earlier post regarding you selling up this is exactly what we would miss if you totally stopped coming on the forum you obviously have an extensive knowledge from 12 years of owning a corrado cos you knew exactly how to advise Rob where I didn't :salute::salute:

[Jim Bowen 1]

I had trouble starting mine. Albeit very rarely so hard to trace. But did ignition switch and relay 109 anyway.

 

Not had the problem since. But who knows.

[robrado974 1]

Will be ordering one today ,thanks for the help

Am I right in thinking no special tool needed to fit the switch (unlike my t4)and it's just a grub screw that's a pain to get in ? . Thanks for help , rob

Edited September 30, 2013 by robrado974

[Jon_vr6 1]

A watch makers screwdriver I found worked best not a cross head one a flat end one

[Jim Bowen 1]

Its a right old fiddle until i found a suitable screwdriver, even managed to fit my screw back in.

[robrado974 1]

One more question guys , would the car not turn over if the ignition switch had gone or was on its way out ? Mine is turning over .

[mic_VR 3]

I've not done one myself but I'd guess that the starter motor circuit connection and the actually running circuit connection are 2 different parts of the ignition switch so one might work and not the other..... I stand to be corrected though.

[Dox 23]

Find out what's missing when the car is a non start, spark at the plugs, fuel being injected or both.

 

Disconnect one of the spark plug leads and plug a spare spark plug into it, check for a spark when cranking the engine over whilst holding the plug against the engine block using insulated pliers and wearing gloves.

 

Remove the plug from the engine and check to see if its wet with fuel.

 

What was missing?

[robrado974 1]

As above in first post , have fuel and spark , have been told it's a little weak and corroded leads , got knew leads coming .

Rob

[CazzaVR 0]

The car will often still turn over with a faulty ignition switch. Don't put the screw back in whatever you do! Cable tie the switch in place ;) If you're having problems getting the screw out, hammer it off carefully with a screwdriver/hammer. Takes about two minutes. When you get the new switch you'll see the little tab that you need to break off by hammering.

[Dox 23]

As above in first post , have fuel and spark , have been told it's a little weak and corroded leads , got knew leads coming .

Rob

 

If you have a weak spark on all 6 plugs it suggests, poor coil performance - clean the 12V pos and neg connections, poor king lead (the lead between the coil and dizzy cap) check for security and corrosion of the ends, dizzy cap and rotor arm.

 

I'd also make sure the battery connections are spotlessly clean and the battery - body - engine and gearbox earth points are spotless too. A few volts lost in the wiring will mean several 1000 volts lost at the coil, when cranking this will fall dramatically due to the power needed from the battery to crank over the V6 engine.

[robrado974 1]

Brilliant feed back as usual guys , thanks so much , will let you know how I get on

Rob

[Matt@OCD 0]

vag-com will be pretty limited on your engine, I highly doubt it would pick up a coil fault let alone tell you when it's faulting.

 

As Dox says for it, just make sure the basics are good, always worth doing a compression test as well if it hasn't been done, a drop can give you some very spurious starting issues

[robrado974 1]

Yes compression had crossed my mind , Robbie on here has a tester so I can borrow his

Rob

[robrado974 1]

Well i took the old girl out tonight , was on the way to pick my son up from his mums . I filled up with fuel , started the car drove 10 yards to the airhose and it stalled . It would not start and i had to call the aa in the end . They bridged the fuel relay and said it seemed fine . Spark was fine as well . We then took off the fuel line , primed the system , but it only spat out a small amount of fuel , he said i expect more than that to come out .He said i doubt its the filter as it would have to be badly blocked to stop the fuel ,that and the fact its only done 1500 miles . I will change the filter anyway ,but cant see that will sort it .

[st4stokie 10]

I'd try your coil pack (small square pack with single lead to dizzy) Know its a different car but I had an 8v which the coil pack failed on and it wouldn't start at all. Won't show on vagcom and soon as I fitted a new coil it fired straight in, worth a try and alot cheaper than the later type coil packs