g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted January 8, 2021 7 minutes ago, Dox said: I'm no expert, but Dave Walker at Emerald is:- EmeraldM3D.com - Rolling Road How Rolling Roads Work Before we consider how a rolling road measures power output, it helps to understand what we are measuring. We often talk about bhp (brake horse power) as if it was something that existed, rather than the reality of it being a convenient number - which we have calculated. Bhp is a rate of doing work and in order to do work you need to put in some effort and then you need to see a result for that effort. The effort is, in our case, the torque generated by the engine. The result is the distance moved by the flywheel (expressed in rpm). The simple formula for calculating bhp is based on 33,000ft lbs of work being done in one minute. This amount of work is regarded as one horsepower. The formula is: HP = Torque x rpm over 5252. From this you can see that when the rpm is at 5252 the HP and the torque are the same. If the power and torque lines do not cross here on the graph then someone is telling you porkies! We use the term "Brake" horsepower because the engine torque is measured on a device called an Engine Brake, or dynamometer as it is more correctly known. Dyno's measure torque at a given rpm and then we calculate the bhp from there. With an engine bolted to a dynamometer we take the torque reading directly from the flywheel and without any form of gearbox. nice explanation Dox thanks 😄 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted January 8, 2021 Kilowatts (kW) to BHP conversion calculator (rapidtables.com) IMO you shouldn't leave a professional evaluation more confused than before you took their advice? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) If 118kw is at the wheels the above indicates a 32bhp loss over standard due to transmission losses which is about right Edited January 8, 2021 by Dox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted January 8, 2021 Sorry for the delay in sending pics of the bonnet rib cutout. The white is adhesive from the tape i used to cover it. I covered the area with masking tape, and cut through that as opposed to using the dremel directly. The bottom of the pics are towards the engine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 9, 2021 19 hours ago, Dox said: If 118kw is at the wheels the above indicates a 32bhp loss over standard due to transmission losses which is about right I did those calcs and gained comfort from them, especially as the car does not feel sluggish or under powered. Thanks Dox for putting this stuff up. Fla great pictures, thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 29, 2021 Hoping to get time to do a compression test this weekend. Does anyone have any top tips for me. 😇 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted January 29, 2021 Fully charged battery, throttle jammed open, all plugs removed. it would be a good idea to unplug the crank sensor (no spark or fuel) and not to stand in-front of the car if someone else is turning the key - mine shot coolant out of the plug hole into a light fitting blowing the power... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 29, 2021 Worth warming the engine a little beforehand as well. 👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 29, 2021 🤣🤣 cheers dox, hadn't thought or read about the crank sensor 👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 29, 2021 6 minutes ago, seanl82 said: Worth warming the engine a little beforehand as well. 👍 👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted January 29, 2021 This gives a good heads up. https://dannysengineportal.com/compression-test-how-to-do-it-what-can-it-tell-you/ good luck mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keyo 47 Posted January 30, 2021 12 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said: This gives a good heads up. https://dannysengineportal.com/compression-test-how-to-do-it-what-can-it-tell-you/ good luck mate Second that good luck . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted January 30, 2021 Thats a good link, thanks for sharing. Is it necessary to remove all the plugs or can they be removed one at a time? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted January 30, 2021 39 minutes ago, fla said: Thats a good link, thanks for sharing. Is it necessary to remove all the plugs or can they be removed one at a time? Otherwise the starter is struggling against 5 cylinders with compression, plugs out, throttle open gives faster cranking but still not as fast as normal idle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted January 30, 2021 57 minutes ago, Dox said: Otherwise the starter is struggling against 5 cylinders with compression, plugs out, throttle open gives faster cranking but still not as fast as normal idle thanks Dox, makes sense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 30, 2021 21 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said: This gives a good heads up. https://dannysengineportal.com/compression-test-how-to-do-it-what-can-it-tell-you/ good luck mate Quality link. Didnt get chance today, so hopefully will tomorrow. I will post up my findings when I do. Thanks gents Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 31, 2021 Took her out for a warm up today to enjoy the last day of her road tax 😊, then it was time for the compression test. I had purchased a cheap US pro kit which has lots of bits that I certainly did not need. The biggest worry was that the thread adaptor that goes on the end of the hose would get left behind in the cylinder head, damn that would be trouble, but all went surprisingly well. I had never this before, but removing all ignition leads, plugs and the fuel relay 167 was quick and easy enough. (Didnt do the crank sensor Dox, I totally forgot) Bloody immobiliser needs resetting everytime I switched the ignition off 😠 and first attempt I got Zero on the gauge !! Thankfully just a loose joint at the gauge. . Cylinder 1- 148 Cylinder 2 - 177 Cylinder 3 - 165 Cylinder 4 - 180 Cylinder 5 - 162 Cylinder 6 - 175 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Now I'm not for 1 minute thinking those readings are accurate and the engine is mint, but she does pull well and does not smoke. The car is on 122,922 miles I think I have done towards 1k miles on the new plugs so I compared them to the old ones I removed And this is the tester I used Edited January 31, 2021 by Cressa Mileage addition Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 31, 2021 Hope it is the gauge misreading, cylinder 1 is pretty low. Iirc, anything between 160-180 is within tolerance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 31, 2021 1 minute ago, seanl82 said: Hope it is the gauge misreading, cylinder 1 is pretty low. Iirc, anything between 160-180 is within tolerance. And I thought about 120 would have been good for an old engine 😄. Sean, i certainly am no expert at this and it was my 1st time. I had read that if within 20% then not to worry..... I was expecting 1 and 6 to be lower surprisingly.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted January 31, 2021 BOLLO#, just realised I didnt do it with the throttle open..... for ease I was turning the key through the open window. I may have to redo this now. I suppose it may be interesting to see if it differs. I may also have a Carbon clean, just to see if that makes a difference too..just a thought Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted January 31, 2021 How long was the car off the road for? How many miles since? I’d plan a road trip before I checked again and if I had those figures quoted I’d be more than happy with 25 year old engine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted February 1, 2021 9 hours ago, Dox said: How long was the car off the road for? How many miles since? I’d plan a road trip before I checked again and if I had those figures quoted I’d be more than happy with 25 year old engine? Was off the road for 5 years and has done just 800 miles since roadworthy. I will give it a roadtrip first . I dont know how well calibrated the gauge is , but I am happy with the results. Atleast it isnt on its arse thankfully Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted February 8, 2021 COMPRESSION UPDATE So I did the compression test again today, with the throttle fully open 1-175, 2- 177, 3 -175, 4-180, 5-173, 6-173 Zero miles since the last test. Latest figures in blue. Now I'm happy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted February 8, 2021 27 minutes ago, Cressa said: COMPRESSION UPDATE So I did the compression test again today, with the throttle fully open 1-175, 2- 177, 3 -175, 4-180, 5-173, 6-173 Zero miles since the last test. Latest figures in blue. Now I'm happy chicken dinner - sounds very healthy 😄 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites