davidwort

coming in a minute, a rear seat partial stripdown - series of pics, just need to resize and upload them, few issues that complicate things unfortunately. ... OK, pics up, removing the edge of the covers is easy enough, plastic edge trim is just tucked up and under the edges of the seat back. when you get all the sides off you can see the centre 3 horizontal cross stitching lines are not where the cover is latched onto the main cushion/foam, that is done with vertical rods, there are some attached to the covers and then ones moulded into the foam and the rods link at the top and bottom and have small hoops connecting part way down. The main thing I noticed was the covers are double layered and have a thin layer of foam stitched inside them, be interesting to compare that to the leather ones. Another issue is the glueing, the main foam is very well glued all the way round to the seat back frame, could be an issue if attempting to swap foams, I think it would be best to transfer a cover to the whole foam and frame, but then the carpet might not be the same type, grey on my old valver one here.

it still looks so odd, if the leather has shrunk then perhaps the cover has also come away from the metal rods that secure it into the cushion foam, need to take it to bits and investigate more I reckon.

I think there's some talking at cross purposes here, the 'UJ' Jim is talking about is part of the height adjuster mechanism and cannot be replaced. The main steering UJ connects the rack to the bottom of the column (and can be separately replaced), that may be an MOT fail itself although they rarely give trouble. Even on a 'good condition' adjustable column, the adjuster 'UJ' seems to be the cause of extra play, remove it altogether and the feel of the steering is much better, unless of course your suspension top mounts are totally shot like on my 8v :lol:

anyone guessed what this stuff is, if it's not general purpose grease (from the advice in the Bentley) then Shirley it's just like a high performance white grease or something, it's not like it's as critical as gearbox teeth or high tolerance engine internals to lubricate is it?

that'll be fine, the inner joints don't get flexed or pelted with road dirt like the outer ones anyway. I think some of the genuine ones have plastic collars between the bellows presumably to stop rubbing in some way but I can't see that will be an issue.

yes, if you chock the wheels you should be able to crack the hub nut free with a breaker bar, I did this job again last Friday and it didn't actually take long at all. Just make sure you have plenty of rags to clean up the CV grease with. I forgot again I needed a ball joint splitter to do the job by removing the track rod end/balljoint from the hub steering arm, so did the job again by removing the bottom suspension strut bolts, no bother as I have a flat garage floor and know the position my camber is set to using a spirit level.

also, consider getting it to an MOT tester and get them to check the CO and lambda values, they'll do a part throttle lambda test to see if the lambda value wavers around, sure sign the sensor is shot or dodgy. 2.0 16v engines can have really bad idle problems with dodgy lambda sensors. non VW pattern ones can be as bad as worn out genuine VW ones, NGK or Bosch ones should be OK.

:lol: my Mrs would be more than pleased to see me get rid of some bits from the garage, I just picked up a complete 16v interior the other weekend, just for the passenger seat inner bolster to swap with the driver's outer bolster on my 8v :lol: Grim1 on here gave me the seats for nowt :salute: and I promised to pass the bits I didn't need on to worthy causes :) keep reminding me if you don't hear from me soon, might not be till the weekend I get around to getting all the bits out.

second hand spoiler mech or control unit won't be much, if you are buying a VR6 then that's going to be the least of your running costs! I'm totally serious, if the rest of the car is a good-un it's a good bargaining point but don't let it put you off the car.

I checked the seats on ETKA, seems the only different seat back foam (apart from the late non-hump 8v and 16v) was an odd one for the 'JET' special edition. So any foam (e.g. the old valver ones) should do. backrest.jpg[/attachment:2v4ntso9] if Mr B doesn't sort you out, I've got at least two rear seats in my garage and you're welcome to the foam from those, imagine only a couple of quid postage if I do it through my work post room. Cost the princely sum of £2.88 to send an interior light unit to Canada the other day :lol:

that is quite bizarre :scratch: is the leather and stitching the same? it looks almost like a Corrado seat but without the seat foam behind it, but in another way almost like a home made copy of a rear bench :(

I'm sure with those seat foams they keep making batches, I think this has occurred before, what you really need to do is badger the dealer to put in an order request so it is recorded that people are asking for them.

does it do it with the car stationary/not in gear? does sound more like the clutch, funnily enough I'm going to be doing my 8v clutch in a few weeks, very heavy and juddery, either worn right down and/or contaminated friction plate.

so which hose is it? fuel pressure regulator???

do what Jim had done, get hold of a temperature probe or IR thermometer and get a reading from the end of the head where all the sensors are, I reckon you are getting false readings due to a combination of old sensors, earths and wiring to the sensors.

sounds like the slave has already been replaced then, if either was leaking I'd have thought the brake fluid reservoir would have gone down a fair bit.

All depends on how far yo uare planning to go. If you are spending a lot and planning on smoothing the bay and fully respraying that then you might as well get it al done at the same time and prepare an engine while the bodywork is being done. If you are just having external bodywork done then it doesn't really matter when you do the engine, other than the likelyhood of damaging new paint if you work on the mechanicals after the bodywork is done. I'd just get a 2L bottom end, 1.9 is too costly in comparison, and the 2.0 will give more torque, it's also a better stronger block with a bigger water jacket than the 1.8 that you would use as a base for a 1.9.

I'm thinking metering head too. Was it sat for long dry when the engine work was done? did it get dirty at all? does the plunger move smoothly when you lift the air flow plate gently? Have you tried an injector spray pattern test (into bottles) with the airflow plate at idle and just above? The 9A metering head should not be adjusted at all, the equivalent to the idle CO setting adjustment on the 1.8 K-jet 16v is pre-set at the factory on the 9A and would take specialist knowledge to calibrate properly again.

:lol: not just me that takes pictures of rusty nuts and bolts then

what is it with those, on both my cars the nearside front bumper fixing bolt seems to sit in a little sealed chamber of water, the older car's one was rusted to buggery and the newer 8v one was nearly as bad, drivers side seems better, must somehow be related to the battery tray area collecting water I reckon and somehow the water makes it's way down into the inner wing area where the bolt fixings are :shrug: the rear bumper fixing bolts get corroded into the bumper mounting bracket even though they look fairly well tucked away, definitely worth inspecting on any Corrado.

or the pressure accumulator, filters are about 7quid

I use the cheap GSF stuff (10-40 semi synth) in my 16v, nothing wrong with it at all.

looks like it's been driven a lot on winter salted roads or perhaps a sea-side car for some of it's life, either way it does seem to have a fair bit of corrosion for a 2L 16v, I'd expect to see more of that stuff on an earlier 1.8 but then all these cars are getting on a bit now. Those front wishbones are probably perfectly serviceable, but your front radiator support panel is pretty bad, it is a weak spot on Corrados and really needs checking thoroughly and re-coating with protective wax every couple of years at least. the rear fuel pump, pressure accumulator and fuel filter, together with all the unions do get bad on these cars too, they may well last a long time even when they look aweful, but again, they really suffer from road spray in the winter. If you haven't done already, I'd have the rear bumper off, given the condition of other bits on this car, that and the area behind it suffer from the salt spray too. There's nothing really better or worse than a mk2 golf on these bodies really, it's all down to individual cars and what sort of driving they've had, lots of miles on winter roads, especially shorter journeys on more minor roads that get salted but don't dry out as much from traffic are the worst I reckon. My first mile to work is on smaller local roads that are always damp in the winter, but as soon as I'm out on the dual carriageway/motorway the roads are salted but the traffic flow dries them out and the spray level is much lower, even though I rack up more miles on them. waffle over...

with the exception of yesterday evening where I managed to knock an inner CV joint bearing out of it's race by whacking the outer CV joint back on too hard after a boot change :roll: I've had a reasonably productive evening and morning. The 16v now has it's driveshaft back on :lol: and I've had another bash at painting the new wing for the 8v. I've never attempted spraying before (apart from some practice on another old panel) and it's not going too bad. Only using cellulose, so a twin filter 3M mask is up to the job, I'm avoiding nasty 2K paint for the present time. The heath-robinson spray booth :) passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfgarage1.jpg[/attachment:1339f07e] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfwinginprimer2.jpg[/attachment:1339f07e] 2nd coat of primer on the late wing: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfwinginprimer.jpg[/attachment:1339f07e] this little chap dropped by, seemed to be snacking on ants! woody.jpg[/attachment:1339f07e]

you piss takers :lol: whatever you do, don't follow any advice I post about changing CV boots, just spent all evening taking the inner joint off the gearbox because I whacked the outer joint on after fitting the new boot and knocked an inner ball bearing out of the inner joint :censored: :lol: I'm now plastered in CV grease... again.