davidwort

YES! see my edited post above +pic

they're piddly little bolts and would be taking the weight of the whole engine and gbox, I just thought it made sense to have a safety net of a jack under the front subframe. Bentley also says not to move the car with the bumper (and 17mm bolts) off IIRC also, When I took out one of my 13mm bolts it was also quite corroded, particularly on the passenger side, water seem sto collect behind it. here we are, bumper bolts obviously form a major part of the front structural rigidity of the car: bumpers.gif[/attachment:1p4izsqq]

I've used brown-bread in the past and it seems OK, bit on the expensive side though for what it is. This flashing tape type stuff, or the brown-bread/proper ICE stuff is only really any good at preventing the panel from acting as a sound board, once you stick one layer on any more makes very little difference. What would make a difference is something like the underbonnet foam that actually absorbs certain frequencies (think phone hoods in airports etc, with the boards with holes in - they are tuned to absorb sound frequencies) but don't use anything too thick that could cause an obstruction in the door or that can absorb moisture, like floor/roof lining felt :) how about expanding foam :cuckoo: :lol:

to do the front bumper you need to remove the outer 17mm bolts (2 each side) from the front cross member (not the middle 13mm one) however, you need to support the engine with a crane/support beam or with a jack/stand under the cross member. on early cars you need to remove the brake cooling ducts from the arch liners (screws/bolts inside arch liner) late cars, I think you have small undertrays each side to remove? you then need to remove the fogs/indicators to disconnect the wiring from behind and also remove the matal bar that supports the lower spoiler, as this clamps the spoiler and bumper cover to the from slam panel think that's it.

so, do you reckon my rotor arm is worn at all :lol: rotor_arm.JPG[/attachment:b46kpbjg] ... ... It's not really mine BTW, off a work colleagues skoda, and it was actually running OK when he drove it to the garage for a service :cuckoo:

no, sorry, close, but I'd have one of these: 08rs6avant_hir002.jpg[/attachment:2t19g2um] not that I'll ever afford one.

no, this is the way forward: switch.jpg[/attachment:196f5b62]

I'm with Butterfly on this, get some heat on it :) but don't overdo it, if you try hard enough I'm sure you can ignite brake fluid.

golf switch just doesn't have the 'ignition on' illumination the corrado one does (think it still has the sidelight warning illumination though), like you say, it's a direct swap otherwise, but it's not like it's hard to find the switch in the dark :lol:

lets hope it's better than the febi one that AVS sent me, it was total crap and went in the bin.

you know the seal is on the inner part yes? not between the lip on the cap and the top surface on the tank.

identical on the 4cyl cars

GSF do a pattern one (for the original part) which is cheap, it looks the part and I've had no trouble with it at all. It's possible you just have the seal or valve damaged in the cap though, do you have the original black cap or the superceeding blue one?

a timing belt tensionner tool helps (like a spanner but with two lugs to fit into the tensionner), as does a timing belt tension setting tool. But neither are essential, angled long nose pliers do the job and you can guess the belt tension by twisting butween you finger and thumb.

was just thinking headgasket (leak from water jacket into cylinder) which would be more than just the condensation you get on a cold engine, a few drops of water in the exhasut can make quite a cloud. but that was just a possibility, worst case!

the pairs of cams are designed to work together, so I'd imagine the pair of ABF cams would be quite good as they are quite high lift, although they were designed for the ABF injection system so the KR pair may suit K-jet better. I have no complaints with the KR pair, a good balance of torque and power on a 2L block, but I do have a pair of ABF cams from Dave16v that I'm going to compare in there at the next cambelt change. Will be interesting to see. It's possible an ABF inlet with a KR exhaust cam might work, but I don't think the duration of the two looks like they will be great together.

you can slightly waist the butterfly pivot and grind down the fixing bolts as you say, the bolts should be very secure, but if you do need to disturb them make sure you fit them with loctite. I ground down the end of the bolts and cut the heads down until there was just enough of the screw head left to still get a screwdriver onto, large throttle butterfly is easy to get totally clean, small one has very protruding bolts (on the 1.8) so there was only so much I could do and still leave the cross-head on the bolt. throttle_body_800img.jpg[/attachment:2mohkdu1]

look for traces of crystallised coolant around hoses, clamps water pipes etc, the header tank overflow pipe (under the side cover on the tank) it may be that the header tank cap seal is damaged and the system is blowing water out. Cardboard left under the car over night can help trace where water might be dripping from. I'm assuming you haven't got water in the oil, white smoke (steam) from the exhaust or a smell of coolant inside the car (possible heater matrix leak)?

I've got an old front VT mount on mine (fast road) and although it does have some movement I have to agree with Jim, I've got standard rear and G-box mounts and the front VT makes considerably more vibration at idle, may be not as bad a Jim experiences but when I first swapped it I was disappointed, you get used to it though and gearchanges do benefit.

depends if you keep the car for long, VW one may well last another 15-20 years, GSF one may give trouble in a couple, it really is a case of you pays your money. 10 quid for a second hand passat one sorted me out :)

those window trims never press against the glass AFAIK, they're certainly not designed to stop water entering the door. I've never notice any water pooling nside the door, is you car really low at the front, or parked on a hill??

won't a G60 exhaust have a bolt-up flange to the cat? the early 16v won't.

today I have been mostly fitting a new wing, had it sitting around ready to go on for ages, but reckoned the hottest day of the year would be good for getting the old sealant out and dry for sealing a new panel in. Very sound under the old wing, looks like it was the original, just scabby round the arch from damage repair years ago. Finally the tube of VAG seam sealant I got from Stanford Hall last year came in handy :) climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfP1000634_low.JPG[/attachment:398g7mbe] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfP1000636low.JPG[/attachment:398g7mbe] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1000635low.JPG[/attachment:398g7mbe] P1000641low.JPG[/attachment:398g7mbe]

high pressure hoses tend to go when the pump has been fauly for a while, the pressure relief valve in the pump sticks and the rack gets pressure all the time, this leads to the hose being put under too much pressure and leaking, it's possible to repair a PAS hose but not with a bodge of an extra piece of rubber section inserted into the pump to rack pressure hose, it will just pop in 5 minutes, it would take a proper hydraulics firm to re-fit rubber section to the metal pipes on the ends. The return hose is not under pressure though, but that hardly ever fails because of that, that's the one that just connects up with jubilee clips. I'm sure you can get the right pump on exchange somewhere, they are the same ones as fitted to mk2 golfs and even pug 306's!

I've got a sykes-pickavant auto meter, does dwell angle and oldschool stuff like that :) been very reliable and is fused with a conventional small barrel fuse (pack of 10 from maplins was pence), that's saved me/the meter a few times, things like the hold function for readings can be quite handy.