davidwort

try trawling the 16v section on Club GTI, I'm sure it's been covered on there a few times.

was thinking the same myself, although for the cost and hassle I'm not sure how much a rebuild would end up being compared to buying a new one? Would you not need bearings and brushes sourced/replaced too?

solenoids get weaker with heat (electro-magnet) so you'll find when they start to give trouble it's when the engine is already hot, sometimes a whack with a hammer in the right spot will encourage them to throw the starter gear out. You could just swap the solenoid over with a good second hand one, that way you don't need to change the whole starter, or you could buy a recon/exchange new starter and do the whole thing. chances are most second hand starters will be sold complete, but you could do that and then just use the solenoid, and if you still have no joy then do the bit of extra work changing the whole starter, I wouldn't pay more than 10-20 quid for a good second hand starter though. Obviously new/recon gives you the most piece of mind though.

delusions? I've got nothing better to do by the way :lol: ferrari.jpg[/attachment:1hmonxoa]

there's something very audi 80 about that front end now, not just the badge :)

not much good if your Corrado arms have weak springs in them though, which is the real reason Corrado wipers get so bad.

on a 16v I'd recommend http://www.vwspares.co.uk/ for FEBI mounts, nearest you'll get to VAG and much cheaper,

sounds like it could be the fan run on relays, are they mounted in front of the header tank on that age of car?

:lol: tipped talc all over the golf this am (must get down to ECP and pick up a new belt) the WD40 wasn't a good idea, doesn't keep it quiet long and probably makes the belt itself worse, engine smells very nice now with the talc on though, all flowery :camp:

they rarely have to drive around corners :lol:

get them warm and pull, it's just a rubber o ring sat in a groove holding them in place old o rings get hard so a little force on the edge of the injector top (hex shaped bit) can help in lifting them out inserts need a large hex key to remove

I took the relief valves off mine when I fitted some silicon hosing, no problems so far and the matrix is 20 years old, have maintained the car since '96 though. I won't go running to VW if it does blow and burn my feet off though :lol:

they can only pressurise if they get blocked, and they'll only get blocked if you allow crap to circulate in the system If they corrode they will leak, yes, but they'll do that with or without a by-pass valve.

yeah, but it doesn't happen like that does it, my dad worked for about 15 years at a VAG franchise in the 80's and 90's and they never had one go like that. It was identified as a 'safety issue' due to the potential to leak hot water into the cabin so had to be done as a recall, reality is if you keep your cooling system in good order, e.g. use deionised water and proper coolant additive, changed every few years, the matrixes last a long-long time. Even the ones that do leak usually just steam up the windows, the matrix is inside a plastic housing in the centre of the dash, they're not over you or you pasengers feet anyway.

I recommend (1) getting genuine VW bushes (2) getting someone else to do it I had the use of a 2 post lift for the day and still managed to take most of the day to do it, I ended up having to replace the rear brake pipe sections and remove the whole beam (which you'll need to do unless you have the automatic VW hydraulic tool) It wouldn't be impossible to do at home on axle stands, but the beam is very heavy and it would have to be one of the worst jobs to do in this way.

might be worth contacting the chap who makes these lines: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=84188

Been a while, at last it dried out enough this afternoon to go out for a blast, made the most of it as more snow is forecast for Wednesday :roll: Corrado92.pdfc4.jpg[/attachment:3mpay6i2] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfc1.jpg[/attachment:3mpay6i2] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfc2.jpg[/attachment:3mpay6i2] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfc3.jpg[/attachment:3mpay6i2] c5.jpg[/attachment:3mpay6i2]

my valver (fairly new engine) is a pig to turn over by hand, you really have to swing on the crank pulley bolt and you can feel and hear each cylinder compressing and releasing through the exhaust valves, after one cylinder releases it's easy to turn for 1/4 of a turn until the next cylinder compresses. If you had no compression on all cylinders the starter would spin the engine like a fast spin on a washing machine - no resistance.

traffic should just need the traffic power lead, this has a module built into it and uses the lead for FM reception of the traffic info. A while back Comet were selling these leads off for about 30 quid, the 255WT is basically just a 255W with the lead in the box AFAIK.

possibly need to remove oil pump pickup pipe, but that's no biggy.

KR engine: 116-1622_img.jpg[/attachment:x7io2v4c]

gearbox code: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/02a_manual_ ... s_etc.html engines code should be on a flat surface on the front of the block, you'll need to clean it with wire wool or a wire brush to read it by now though :)

it's a big pressed metal plate that spans the whole sump and has an integrated sump gasket as part of it, it was first fitted to the diesel engines presumably because they had long throw cranks. GSF should sell them still as it's a standard diesel part. A lot of tuners like TSR fitted them to engine conversions it's not really needed on a road car but helps keep the oil where it should be, at the bottom of the pan to be picked up by the pump. Ojn some engines it might be necessary to trim or remove the plastic baffle around the oil pump, which again is there to aid oil pickup for the pump, but I think I managed to get my KR one to fit with the windage tray IIRC

2L 8v GTI's, 2L 16v (ABF) and VR6 golf mk3's should all have the plus axle running gear, but as with the brakes they may well have changed the type of top mounts and springs over the production run.

so, just to confirm agin, do you feel compression in each of the cylinders if you wind it over by hand by the crank pulley bolt? does it spin too fast on the starter like there's little compression resistance?