davidwort

sticking ISV?

I'd just wire up the solenoid with the starter off the car, you'd have to clamp the motor well if you tried to run that, big old kick from the motor itself :shock: - haven't ever risked doing that myself BTW but if the solenoid (still attached to the motor) won't throw the motor gear out (don't need to wire the motor up), then you might just get away with sticking a second hand solenoid on it, I did.

yep, I picked one up no trouble, only thing that won't fit is a bonnet, and a bare shell of course...

the starter solenoid may not be throwing the gear out on the starter to mesh with the flywheel, easy enough to take off and check with 12v direct, the VW wiring gets tired with age and so do the solenoids, exchange ones sometimes don't get new parts, solenoids are usually a problem when hot though, when the magnet is weaker. Some people even relay up the solenoids to get a better feed straight from the battery to them.

removing the snorkel definitely improves the top end on my 2L block with a flowed head, but after reading a detailed article on Club GTI it would probably benefit from an enlarged snorkel type tube directed towards the base of the air filter element. However on a standard 1.8 engine I don't think it will have much effect apart from add noise and possibly mess with very cold running a bit as the thermostatic flap won't be able to shut off the cold air feed to draw warm air from the exhaust manifold when it needs to.

yep I did these and used nothing more than a vice and some hoofing great sockets to push the rear bushings in. front ones go in fine too although they are pretty tight. I'd just clean up the lip of the hole they go in and paint up afterwards, I wouldn't think it would harm if you sand blasted the wishbones before fitting the bushes though

worth checking coil is within specs and hall sender, ideally swap with a known good one to check with it running before splashing out on new parts. Is all the timing set up correctly? Air filter ok? When was the fuel filter changed? I doubt it's fuelling, but does it run OK driving at full throttle? Injector spray pattern and fuel delivery rates and pressures are really last things on the list to check.

After finally managing to get the siezed rear bumper mounting bolts out, one which had to be drilled out, I set to work cleaning up the scruffy bumper iron, still pretty solid considering it's been hanging out the back of the car for 20 years. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfrear1.jpg[/attachment:3mbd3fgy] then a bit of a closer inspection, pain to remove all the cover clip wedges and then squeeze all the plastic barbs to get the cover off, but it doesn't take long Corrado92.pdfrear-bracket1.jpg[/attachment:3mbd3fgy] bottom cover strengthening panel is close to shot, but it doesn't do much anyway passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfrear-inside.jpg[/attachment:3mbd3fgy] ah, that's better, bought a cheap big can of green hammerite so I might as well use it :lol: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfpainted-2.jpg[/attachment:3mbd3fgy] then a liberal coating with VAG protective wax, good stuff but it stinks :gag: did the other side in this too before putting the cover back on. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfpainted-inside.jpg[/attachment:3mbd3fgy] pushing the centre wedges back into the cover barbs pushing-clips.jpg[/attachment:3mbd3fgy]

glad you got the gear cables done, I remember how bad it was at Cosford, hope you've got them well shielded from the manifold downpipe now :)

I can't remember the fan motor setup exactly, but I'd imagine only the full speed is working, most motors have a full power/speed circuit and a second circuit running through a resisitor to provide a lower speed, if the resistor windings corrode and break you only get the one speed, but I'm not sure where or how the fan motor is 'resisted', it may be part of the unit itself as there are 3 pins to the motor.

I assume you mean the temperature switch that triggers the fan to come on, usually at the bottom of one side of the radiator. Bridging the connection means pulling the plug off and shorting one speed connection to the earth pin, completing the circuit for one speed to the fan motor, if your temp switch is the culprit then doing this will make you fan run, if the fan doesn't run then the motor may be shot, you also need a voltmeter or test light to make sure you actually have live feeds to the fan switch first, as you could have a fuse blown instead.

corrados use the same OEM downpipe as golf 2's and passats, so 4 branches are pretty much always listed as the same part too, the only problem I've seen is that the cables for the gearchange are very close to the pipes on a 4 branch and you can melt the nylon sleeves. As an ABF is taller you may also get clearance problems that you wouldn't on a short-block motor. You may need to cut/lower the rear engine mount if you want the 4 branch on the ABF. Personally I've found a ported and polished OEM exhaust manifold and standard downpipe is great on a modded 2L 16v.

no I don't think the weight in the handbook is 'kerb' weight you can add over 100Kg for that I reckon, so even an early 16v would make over 1250kg and a VR probably over 1350kg

you need a 16v specific one as the mounting bracket is 16v specific, a 65 or 90 amp oe will do though, same 90Amp one on the equivalent age passat, 16v mk3 golf is different again though as that uses a serpentine drive belt

no, you need self tapping screws for the number plate light cover, I've got some alloy ones I picked up from somewhere, but I guess stainless would be ideal

you need to remove it anyway, so you might as well test it off the car, it audibly clicks when it switches on/off at both temps, so you can heat it over a candle/hob and connect a multimeter to make sure it makes a circuit as well as clicks across both sets of connection.

loom is different and the post 92 clocks use an electronic speed sensor rather than a cable from the gearbox for the speedo.

There's something they spray into air-con systems to kill bacteria, I'll ask about it later as I'm popping down the garage to get my battery checked.

use proper CV grease, you might find it cheaper to buy a pattern CV boot and use the tube of grease that comes with that than a whole tub from halfrauds though :)

...s job was exactly as you say - to prepare the shoddily made and transit damaged cars for sale in the showrooms!! it's worse than that, a Fabia my sister had in for PDI once had a new sill welded in because the original was rusting through when it came off the lorry :shock:

god, don't pay to have it fitted at all, it's about 2 minutes work, one of those opening and closing the bonnet! BTW it's the same bosch unit that's fitted to VR passats and golfs and 2.0 16v corrados and passats as well as countless audi 80's and 100's, you should be able to find a second hand one fairly easily.

I think some numpty has shown you a coilpack from an ABF engine (mk3 golf/passat/ibiza 2.0 16v) it uses a totally different injection and ignition system to the 9A 2.0 16v Corrado. The coil you need has an ignition amplifier attached and isn't the same as a KR one AFAIK, I have a KR system and a 2L 9A coil sat on a shelf in my garage, the physical coil cylinder looks similar, but so do all VW coils, the part numbers are not the same though. You may be able to use a KR coil on a 9A but you'd still need the 9A ignition unit that's mounted on it.

your best bet is to remove the inlet and cam cover and have it professionally coated, if you DIY paint it with high temp paint or engine laquer it'll crack and peel off in no time and even when fresh can look pretty ropey, just my 2p.

is the top trim split and not holding the card? the door locking knob should be practically flush with the top surface of the top trim, that's way off, is it a re-trim of the card making it too thick to push into the trim? ha, just beaten to it ^^

have you toad anything with it yet? ...sorry...bored...