davidwort

sorry, my point was the circa 2000 sharan will probably have the same engine as the Galaxy (built on the same line IIRC) from what I can see all the VW VR engines, Corrado Golf sharan, use the same bolts, regardless of age or capacity 2.8/2.9, so it's a pretty safe bet the Galaxy is the same.

KR inlet cam (exhaust cams on KR and 9A are the same) is a noticeable improvement at the top end, much higher lift than the 9A inlet. The ABF is even more lift but with the ABF exhaust has less duration IIRC so swings and roundabouts. An ABF inlet cam with the 9A/KR exhaust cam might be interesting but probably very little in it. It's possible the 9A engine management might not like the emissions of an ABF inlet/KR exhaust combination, not sure. KR inlet is tried and tested though, good enough to get near 170/180bhp with a gas flowed head. Probably give you nearer 150 on a standard 9A

depends on so many things, a sedately driven :cuckoo: good condition VR may burn little or none at all in 1000 miles, an old engine with worn valve guides driven hard will burn 1L off in 1000 miles quite easily. Doesn't mean it's at deaths door, in fact burning some oil doesn't do it any harm at all. I'd expect half a litre in 1000 miles to be more normal though. Like any other car, you should check your oil at least once a week if you drive the car often and at least roughly when you fill up with fuel (every several hundred miles)

that was a mission to find: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=73848

partially blocked oil pickup or a dodgy pump? both of which are even more of a problem

the sharan 2.8 uses the same part as the C 2.9 VR6 077105425B HTH

I think you'd be lucky to get that much, I know several people who picked up tidy 8v's a year or two back for less than a grand, and I've seen a fair few pretty good nick VR's going for under 1500 recently too. But you never know, right buyer at the right time?

my friendly local official VW dealer provided me the screen shot :wink:

I'd contact one of the VW specialists and see if they can source them, they don't seem to appear on ETKA though. int-shaft.gif[/attachment:316bru15]

they're quite common, a fair few people have racks made for the Corrado, not sure but you may be able to get Thule feet for the C.

:scratch: I don't recall that being a problem and I did a CV boot the other day and took the top bolt of the ball joint out. For the carriers mine luckily have been off a few times recently and were easy with a medium breaker bar, try lots of penetrating oil for a few days and some heat if yo have a plumbers torch etc. should come out OK. They are fairly big so need a fair bit of persuasion if they're corroded in a bit.

I was going to B&Q/Halfords today to get some primer, then I remembered I trawled a bunch of sites looking for paint supplies a while back, I'll dig out the links if I can and post up later. Much cheaper, much better range of stuff and not much posty IIRC.

I need basically the same stuff, and some of that VW rubberised underseal, the latter I'll order from VW via my Pa, should get a bit off for trade, want any?

those flywheel marks are there, it's just the flywheel is so much bigger it moves past the opening v quickly with small movements turning the engine over via the crank pulley bolt

There are round marks on both cam sprockets that should be level with the cam cover surface of the head when everything is put back. It's not unknown for 16v's to shear the woodruff key on the exhaust cam timing belt pulley or the crank pulley, putting the crank to cam timing out a tooth, but usually only if a belt has snapped or something. The flywheel mark wont go anywhere so start with that, open the timing hole on top of the box get the wheel to the 'O' TDC mark, not the 6 deg advance mark, and line it up with the 'V' shape in the box housing. From there check the crank pulley mark is in the right place, i.e. lines up with the arrow on the cover, and that the dizzy body mark is in line with the rotor arm, you should have the top timing pulley mark in the right place (inside mark level with head surface) and those cam to cam marks should be level and also level with the head surface. HTH. there were some pics of all this somewhere, and also on the Club GTI forum

Which Audis dave? And what sump/pick up? pm'd, too, but you want a late A80 with an EFI 16v lump in it oil pickup pipe needs to be same as a 9A/ABF as the sump is differently shaped for the lengthways audi engine and where it needs to avoid the ARB in those cars, pump is same IIRC, just the pickup pipe is different

make sure it's full of coolant run it up to temp, if the radiator is not blocked and the stat opens fine and you get hot water running round the radiator and through the matrix for heating the inside of the car, then it could be just the expansion tank cap, they can fail and give symptoms a bit like a blown headgasket. Worst case it could be a head gasket I suppose.

which engine? sounds like somethng in the cooling system is blocked and it over-pressurised

Ibiza/toledo/passat used ABF but I reckon your best bet is an 'ACE' from an audi, just need to change the sump and oilpump pickup much like doing a 6A into a Corrado.

mark where the ball joint bracket sits on the end of the wishbone clearly, so when you refit the new one you can get it just about in the right place, that way the alignment might be pretty close to how it was originally when you reassemble everything. Try to soak the hub/balljoint fitting well before starting the job too, i used a chisel hammered into the split in the two halves of the fitting at the bottom of the hub to help relieve a bit of pressure on the balljoint shaft, it just knocked out pretty easily then when whacked from above.

They had one of those in Milton Keynes that started in the 1970's apparently, closed about 10 years ago, called the 'OK Garage', so the idea isn't new. The Garage is still there but not offering the 'rental' bays any more. I didn't hear of any fatalities, but it is across the road from Milton Keynes General Hospital :lol:

:lol: I take it combine engines aren't that high revving astonished (nearly) how quick this thread descended into the gutter, made me chuckle though. Ben, that's one well cared for Corrado :| I need to find a scrapper, taking cars to bits is great :)

I'd tow it rather than messing around where it is, but if the plugs are OK, it turns over OK with the plugs out and then gives some compression resistance when you try turning it with the plugs in, then it might be worth trying to run.

remove the plugs and have a look at the state of them, to turn it over by hand you can get a socket on the big centre crank pulley bolt , should be very easy to turn with plugs out as you'll have no compression to fight against oh, and turn the pulley clockwise, i.e. same direction cam belt turns in.

they're the same, only the outer trim and glass are different