davidwort

I remember doing my first cyl head, 1L polo, pretty easy as it was carb and you could just leave the entire inlet on, daunting at first, but quite a straightforward job really. While you're at it I think it's only right you should put a 2L bottom end in there :D BTW, this thread has been a bad influence, I'm looking for a mk2 to play with now :lol:

i'm not sure about the VR6 ones but the 4 cyl bosch ones have a round black plastic module on the end, with two side bits that each have a phillips mounting screw, undo these two screws and the unit comes off the alternator, with the two carbon motor brushes/contacts attached underneath, very simple to remove and refit and if the sprung loaded brushes are really short they won't make proper contact with the motor and you'll get dodgy charging, brush packs are usually about 10-20 quid new.

it's worth draining and refilling the PS fluid, perhaps a couple of times and stripping the valve/filter out of the ps pump and cleaning, it might just be a sticking pressure valve in the pump, but if the rack valves are sticking or failing then unfortunately you'll have to swap the rack out.

if just one or two of the diodes go down in the alternator then it can charge partly, but you won't be getting full voltage, are you sure the brushes/voltage regulator are not at fault?

rear corrado badge was body coloured until the facelift in 1992, then they went chrome, other model badges are usually red or chrome.

wot, even the yellow escort cabrio? :lol: u know u want one. Oi! wot u sayin, wanna make summink of it, fat car that... :help:

wot, even the yellow escort cabrio? :lol:

Karmann 16v G60 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfkarmann_16v_g60_1.jpg[/attachment:f39hxwmj] karmann_16v_g60.jpg[/attachment:f39hxwmj]

I seem to remember the VR6 engine being delayed in development because of overheating issues, having 6 cylinders so close in the same head and block I'd say an oil cooler is a very worthwhile investment.

you can get all the VW bushings new front and rear, the standard ones from VW will greatly improve tired old parts, some like the wishbone rear bush take quite a hammering on the VR especially and some people have replaced them with TT or R32 parts I think, heavier duty but not poly. If you do put poly ones on they will transmit more noise and vibration. rear axle bushes are probably best left as new OEM parts, particularly as they give some correction of wheel toe when cornering, you'll lose this totally with the poly replacements. front bush on the wishbone and steering rack mounts aren't really of any benefit as poly, front anti-roll bar mounts and drop links may sharpen things a small amount, but again you'll get a bit more noise and vibration, don't think the front cross member ruber mounts will benefit at all from being replaced with poly. have a good search on the forum and search Club GTI forums too.

Yan's the man, I think he's got old dealership workshop manuals, you need the KE jet specific info to measure fuel delivery amounts from the pump at certain voltages, residual pressure in the system, injector flow balance (is the metering head giving more fuel to one injector etc) and then on the KE jet you have the complication of the lambda, differential pressure regulator (the ECU controlled unit on the side of the airbox that effectively replaces the Warm Up Regulator on plain K-jet) and then temperature senders, manifold pressure(vac line to ECU) and I think KE has a TPS sensor too. Mercedes 'familiar' mechanics may have experience of similar K-jet setups, but they all vary and the 9A system seems pretty unique :( Don't think VAG com helps a great deal on the simple 9A ECU, but there is a lot of testing and 'process of elimination' stuff you can do yourself, of course the ideal is to have a similar car to swap known good bits over from? hope you get it sorted, David.

I'm not knocking your garage, but the more I read and learn myself about the K and KE jet systems, the more I realise very few garages know how to test and diagnose problems properly, and then set them up properly. There's a number of methodical steps to ensure all parts of the system are working properly, inlcuding testing injectors, the delivery from the metering head and the system pressures. In particular it's not just a single reading of fuel pressure that can give the OK for the pump,pickup pump, pressure accumulator etc. but a range of tests including how long the system retains pressure, if this drops, fuel vapourisation can occur and that can cause all sorts of starting issues. Once the factory calibration of the metering head on the KE jet 9A are tampered with, usually after some other component causes running issues but is not correctly identified, it can be very difficult to get things right again. It's worth taking the metering head apart and cleaning any gauze filters that are fitted, some units have more than others, and inspecting the plunger and metering comppnents, but you really need a systematic test of all the senders, lambda, injectors, system pressures and a rolling road session should pick any lambda/metering head issues.

Don't want to put you off, I'm sure plenty of A6's are fine, but my dad's Avant hasn't been trouble free, niggling things like a faulty aux air pump which is expensive, door regulators playing silly buggers and the rear wash wipe basically siezing, a few other hoses in places like the breather system collapsing, still it is on 130K now. As far as the allroads go, dad has worked on a few and the model specific parts are very expensive, a couple of customers have had some pretty big parts bills on fairly young cars. I still like all of the A4 estates, they're just not very big inside, whereas the pre 2004 A6 avant has a huge boot and great rear seat legroom.

problem is, the mk6 is a facelifted mk5, so the nose and tail were never designed with the overall lines as a whole, new VW's are usually 'growers' on me, but the mk6 has the ugly safety-legislation raised nose and really bland unimaginative rear lights, could've been so much better, but they always play safe a bit with styling golfs. Could have been worse, I've just seen a new Skoda Superb :pukeright:

best bet would be to try to find a sharan that has been part ex'ed at a garage, then buy as trade, they can't be worth anything book value even with an MOT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ford-galaxy-glx-2 ... 240%3A1318

depends on miles a lot I guess, there's a sharan in the scrappy nr me in Northampton (is that a AAA?) he usually wants around 100-150 notes for a complete engine, but I'd imagine that's got 100K plus on it. always best to hear the engine running in a car, if you can find something like a passat VR they can be had as a complete motor for a few hundred quid usually, if you can find one.

I wouldn't put a rubber cover on the acc pedal, and the brake and clutch are just mk2 ones, bugger to get on though :lol:

small bumper mk2 16v, that's the only one I've ever liked :lol:

saw one on the road this morning, very underwhelmed by it, I liked the Scirocco in the flesh, but the mk6 is deadly dull, do I just hate every new VW when it first comes out or is the mk6 a real dud? Oh, passat CC excepted, which reminds me, what are VW playing at: Scirocco from £19,105 new GTI from £22,410 Passat CC from £21,130 :cuckoo:

man that hill is steep :shock: 8) spot for a photo

when does it blow smoke most? if the stem seals or inlet valve guides are worn then it'll tend to suck down most oil into the combustion chamber when coming off the gas, as manifold vacuum is highest then. Are all plugs the same?

or there's often complete re-con distributors on e-bay for not a lot more.

if it improved for a while after changing the fuel filter I'd check the bottom of the tank for glubules of water, it's possible the new filter held back some contamination for a while. does your main fuel pump under the car sound excessively noisy or vary in pitch, like a warble up and down? I'd also pop off the metering head rubber boot (above the air plate) and gently pull up the air plate to make sure it's smooth in movement. Just a few things to eliminate anyway :)

I wasn't impressed with the dealer mats, the last set I bought (about 60 quid direct from VW dealer) weren't nearly as good as the original set the car had from nearly new, those had stitched logos on them, the new ones have crappy felt stick on logos that rub straight off in use, looks as if those e-bay ones are the same set.

OK, inspired by a thread on the Club GTI forum I've spent today testing the injectors on a KR (K jet) 16v thought I'd post my pics and info up on here in case anyone here was interested most important thing, it's playing with vapourised fuel and is very dangerous to do in an enclosed space, I did this outside of the garage and with an extinguisher handy 1. remove the battery negative lead 2. you can remove the blue fuel pump relay and jump the main pins for it on the fuseboard to run the pump without turning the ignition on 3. then to run the injectors/pump simply reconnect the battery -ve 4. you need each injector spraying into a bottle, about 500ml capacity each really 5. take the big boot off the top of the metering head and lift the airflow plate to the maximum position, this simulates full throttle max airflow into engine and so full injector pressure 6 run the pump for 1 minute exactly and compare the amount of fuel delivered by each injector, this compares the relative amount of fuel to each injector from the metering head, should obviously be equal from each injector 7. check out each injector spray pattern to make sure they are spraying fairly neat cones of atomised fuel and not badly uneven 'squirts' below are my results: no. 1 cyl injector no. 2 injector 3 and 4 inj 4 3 and 4 output in 1 in min and the delivery was all remarkably even across the 4 over 1 minute at full airflow plate deflection Couldn't believe the noise it makes, hell of a racket! At that flow rate you'd empty a full tank of fuel in an hour I reckon! lol As warned, the fuel vapour is v dangerous, even into narrow necked bottles, very glad I did this outside in the fresh air, huge amount of vapour created. Anyway all seems well, a few odd bits in the spray patterns, but I don't think they are too bad, are new injectors perfect spray cones? I didn't think even they were? Very tempting to do a wideband lambda and gauge, looks like it could be extremely useful even if not going fully EFI on the engine - this idea for K-jet is credited to the chaps on Club GTI, very nice work and great info gained on the Air/Fuel Ratio over the full rev range, clearly shows the limit of K-jet fuelling at high revs. I'm going to bung some injector cleaner through the tank anyway, hopefully that can only help. Next job is to check out a ropey fuel sender in the tank :) Edit: 24/11/09 I now have the official VW test procedures/info for the whole injection system, pressures WUR resistances etc. here's a taster: ISV should measure 3.5 to 4.5 ohms across terminals warm up regulator resistance (it has an internal heating element) should be 20-26 ohms to check control pressure of fuel from warm up regulator you need the appropriate unions and a fuel pressure test gauge, but after 2.5 to 3 mins control pressure should increase to 3.4 to 3.8 bar it should be about 1.7 bar on a cold engine with 20 degree ambient temp ecu temp sensor (small ones on side of head) should read 2,500 ohms at 0 deg C dropping to 100 Ohms by the time the engine is fully warm injector delivery rates should be: at idle, after 20ml delivery for one injector, the others should be within 2.5ml at full throttle after 80ml of delivery, the others should be within 8ml idle CO should be about 1% +/- 0.5%, modified engines tend to be set nearer 2 at idle, with the WUR adjusted to provide more fuel at full throttle