davidwort
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Everything posted by davidwort
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Can you remove the late type exhaust hangers and fit early hooks
davidwort replied to ROB1N's topic in Engine Bay
I'm not 100% but I think the fixings are in a different location on the two floor plans, early and late, so it is probably best to weld the correct hooks/bars to the exhaust -
If you want an indoor camera for spying on the pets I can recommend the foxcam IP cameras, mine was 60 quid and gives great day and night vision, motorised and accessible from iPhone/android app or web browser from anywhere, once configured it's wireless and just needs a power socket.
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Brand New Genuine VAG LHD Heater Fan 191959101
davidwort replied to Supercharged's topic in Parts for Sale
you can say that again, you can say that again... can I call you double post Ian from now on :) -
Corrado 1.8 16v KR cambelt change, checking all timing.
davidwort replied to lloyd88's topic in Engine Bay
I've put a spanner on the cam pulley before to turn it against the pressure from the valve gear to line it up, then turn it over once and check all the marks, see if if needs to be moved a tooth either way -
Brand New Genuine VAG LHD Heater Fan 191959101
davidwort replied to Supercharged's topic in Parts for Sale
the ebay ones at under 30 quid delivered are OK, I bought one a while back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321157973200?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 -
Brand New Genuine VAG LHD Heater Fan 191959101
davidwort replied to Supercharged's topic in Parts for Sale
surely you can slide the motor out and fit into a rhd casing? - I've taken them apart before, takes a bit of ingenuity to remove the fan but it's perfectly possible. I'm assuming the motor spins in the same direction, from memory the fan blades look to face the same way. just checked, LHD is a mirror image of the rhd version, so the fan blades are reversed and the motor must spin the other way - bu99er! -
I think the left hose should get hot first (as it is the one that runs out of the head?), the other is the return to the metal water pipe, ideally you want to bin these valves and replace the matrix with a stronger mk3 type (identical fitment) depends on how keen you are to do the matrix though! I don't think you can get the bypass valves any more, they do seem to stick when the get old, try cleaning them out by soaking overnight in lemon juice, that might descale them and free them off.
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I'd be tempted just to run hose lengths and a T piece around the engine, those pipes are a liability. I'm not sure what the differences are between the 16v and 8v ones, they look very similar as the block is basically identical, you can get the 8v ones way cheaper.
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check the hoses feeding coolant to the matrix through the bulkhead, if it has the matrix by-pass valves fitted (with the small bore link hose) it could be that these are playing up, or you might have a air in the system expanding and preventing water flow. If you run the car from cold, hot water from the head should get into the matrix very quickly, I'd run the car stationary and feel the hoses as the engine warms, to see where there might be a blockage, the radiator bottom hose should only get hot when the stat opens which should be 10 or 10 mins of running from stone cold.
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Unfortunately the trim clips I ordered are not quite the right diameter, they would work ok if they were about 10mm diameter rather than 8mm though, so there might be a larger version that would do. these ones look good: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-10mm-Push-Fit-Honda-Bumper-Grille-Engine-Under-Tray-Trim-Panel-Clips-/281018089142?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item416dfbbeb6
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I should get the trim clips today, I'll try one the corrado fusebox cover to see if they'll fit :)
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The spoiler, actual aerodynamic aid or marketing ploy?
davidwort replied to Roger Chatfield's topic in General Car Chat
assuming the sunroof mech is still working :) -
click on the blue words, like the rest of the internet :lol:
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aren't they just anti-rattle clips?
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ooooh! you're talking mega rare and mega bucks there!, or you could just buy a pack of bumper/trim clips like the ones I've just ordered for my Nissan Qashqai, similar idea and size but a couple of quid for 10!
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if the switch is OK, the later style ones can get worn/dirty contacts, then I'd suspect the motor, my passenger one will work if you take the door card off and thump it, but leave it a day and it will jam again. To check the wiring is OK, try opening and closing the door and leaving it in different positions, just to see if there is a broken wire. Worst case it might need a new motor/regulator.
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Corrado 1.8 16v KR cambelt change, checking all timing.
davidwort replied to lloyd88's topic in Engine Bay
could be a Haynes error/misprint as for comparison the G60 Bentley manual states 80Nm (six point) or 90Nm plus 180 degrees for the twelve point. No, apologies, I misread the torque settings table! Haynes is definitely 90Nm + 180 degrees, same as G60 settings from Bentley camshaft is 65Nm (Haynes), 80Nm on the 8v G60 (Bentley), a bit odd as the 8v sprocket is narrower ??? there is a big mismatch in the non-stretch 6 point crank pulley bolt values though 180Nm(133lbft) Haynes, and only 80Nm(59ftlb) in Bentley, not sure what is going on there, I know most crank pulley bolts are about the tightest bolts on any car though, most need a special bracing tool and breaker bar to remove, or a mega-torquey electric hammer gun! -
Corrado 1.8 16v KR cambelt change, checking all timing.
davidwort replied to lloyd88's topic in Engine Bay
taken from Haynes manual for KR/9a Passat - camshaft sprocket bolt 65Nm crank pulley bolt, 2 types: hexagon head 180Nm 12pt stretch bolt 90Nm, turn 180deg, 65Nm -
OK, looks like a duff battery then, if you take it to a garage they should have a deep discharge tester to check if it can deliver cranking current.
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taken from tdiclub.com (for more modern VW's I think)
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20 or 200? that's a bit high I think, I'd expect around 0.02 on the meter, I'd start pulling fuses :)
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Corrado 1.8 16v KR cambelt change, checking all timing.
davidwort replied to lloyd88's topic in Engine Bay
1. yep, replace the pulley 2. you don't need to remove the crank bolt to do the timing belt on a 16v although the outer damped aux pulley may appear to be part of the crank pulley it's not, it just seizes a bit in place 3. line up the crank pulley with the timing cover arrow, this is TDC, and the crank mark should be aligned, there is a TDC mark and a 6 degrees advance mark on the flywheel -
I've been through a few heavy duty batteries including Bosch silvers in that sort of timescale, they are much better being worked hard every day. if your multimeter has more than two connections for the test leads then it should do low current amps tests, you simply put the two leads between the battery connection and the battery lead instead of across the two terminals, the manual with the multimeter will show you which lead connections on the meter to use for amps.
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The spoiler, actual aerodynamic aid or marketing ploy?
davidwort replied to Roger Chatfield's topic in General Car Chat
Yep, I agree, iirc 60mph is about the point that aerodynamic drag becomes greater than road friction, I know it's more about downforce than reducing drag but I'd imagine you have to be doing over the national speed limit for much effect on the Corrado, it does feel bad if you lower the spoiler at high speed though, I tried the same years ago :) -
How old is the battery and what sort of use does it get? if you have a multimeter that can measure current inline then check and see what current drain there is with the ignition off, don't operate the ignition or locking etc though as it will pop the internal fuse in the multimeter.