davidwort

Guess it depends if the kit uses the 16v carriers or has it's own equivalent, the G60 280 carriers are bigger than the 256mm 16v ones. Carriers are the same part number on golfs and corrados with 256 brakes.

here you are:

sounds like the float/sender unit, they're not the most accurate of things at the best of times, mine reads a tiny bit high, only caught me out once not long after I had the car, my previous VW would run right to the bottom of the red, the Corrado runs out about 2/3 of the way down the red :oops: like Kev said in the other thread, it can be adjusted though in the tank.

are you saying the engine won't start at all with all the plugs/leads attached, but if you remove no. 1 cylinder plug (1 is always at the cam belt end on a VW 4 cylinder) then it will start and run on three cylinders? Make sure the distributor cap and rotor arm are in good condition, no signs of arc-ing between contacts inside, replace if at all suspect, they are very cheap, the rotor arm may well be glued on, but can be crushed off with a pair of mole grips etc. Don't need to glue new one on.

great idea, just don't put them in your car and sell them on e-bay, you'll make loads :D if you fit them to your car all it'll do is push the torque band up higher making the car less responsive at low revs and unless you have a flowed head you won't even get the most of the benefits at the top end. KR inlet cam is a good compromise for a daily driver IMO

but what makes them any better a customer than people without children? obviously theres another mouth to feed, but i eat more than enough to feed a normal adult and two children, and buy quality food and beer. I reckon my monthly spend is as high as that of an average 2.4 family - shouldn't i get better facilities? believe me, Tesco's don't do anything that isn't in their own interest, it's all part of their plan to take over the world.

should be able to get them all from GPC or VAG, but with the roof rubbers they don't look too bad if you just trim off the thin perished edge bit all the way along with a new stanley blade.

not if you have a relay No. 19, you need the relay No. 91, it's a post 1992 thing, but interchangable.

I see what you're saying matey, but why is it ok to make allowances for one group of people for whom getting out of the car and into the supermarket is difficult, but not another group? I.e. disabled folk and parents respectively. All or nothing imo :) you could say the same for all owners of 2/3 dr coupes etc then,as most 2/3dr versions of cars have longer doors so making access harder also.........parents don't always have to take their kids along afterall...[/quote:91fbb] What? Doors? Leave one adult and the kids in the car? Lol. A very practical solution there mate - 'you stay in the car for an hour whilst I do the shopping'! Yeah right! Load of old cobblers you're spouting there fella. Pure crap :) And how the fek did that get onto smacking kids!!!! Bit of a Mail reader by any chance?[/quote:91fbb] Having two kids I know how difficult it is using car parks, Tesco and the like are simply providing better facilities for some of their best customers, in the same way that they provide twin baby seats in some trolleys and baby seat mountings for others. Also, it's a darn sight safer with little ones using a parent space as they are by the main walk-ways and it doesn't mean dodging the traffic. I did park in one in my C once and you should have seen the looks I got, until I lifted my 2 yr old out of his car seat, I just tend to go at quiet times in the C on my own though, and park further away from the entrance, the extra walking does me good.

careful doing that, some council and private run car parks will ticket you if you park over bays, I've seen signs from NCP etc. warning of this too. I'm considering hanging old tyres from the side of mine (boat style) to stop dents down the side, last year I parked really close to the side on an end bay and guess what, the volvo driver that parked next to me had so much room to swing his door that when the wind caught it it made an even bigger dent than if I'd parked in the middle of the bay :roll:

handy info, I've also found that even with a 0.01-0.02 Amp drain by the inactive alarm and stereo my battery can drain down enough to struggle starting after a week or two, even with a new big diesel battery. It's amazing how a small current drain over a long period adds up! A good quality multimeter with an in-line current facility is sometimes very handy.

post 92 (facelift) cars have wider wings (all engines) although all will fit any year of C. There's more than a couple of cars knocking around with one type on one side and another on the other :)

a special VW tool is needed to calibrate everything properly, but if you've never tampered with the bolts at the gearstick mounting then simply slackening the 13mm bolt that connects the cable to the gear selector unit on top of the box and moving it slightly in it's adjustable bracket can improve gear selection if the 'at rest' position of the gearlever doesn't go straight forward into 3rd and back into 4th easily.

worn synchros are always worse when the oil and box is cold, all vw boxes seem bad for this at high miles, sometimes VW or other fully synthetic oil can help, especially the fully cold issues. 1st and 2nd gear synchros have to do the most work so they show the worst symptoms, the early vw cable change selector system just makes matters worse, it's been modified countless times since the late 80's to improve the shift feel.

this will do the job: http://www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_in ... ts_id=6482

don't think so, the golf 2 doesn't use the cable change 02A gearbox (apart from G60 golf) and the part numbers for the whole shaft and cv joints seem to be corrado specific (I think the passat ones are longer), it does look like the 16v(1.8 and 2.0) and G60's use the same part no though, 191 407 452X that's right hand drive, right driveshaft (complete)

father in law had a mint late 2.0 16v (UK spec) and while it was a solid reliable car (pretty much usual toyota) it suffered at least one rear handbrake/caliper freeze (sound familiar) and with no rear seats or real luggage space was just not as useful a car. When it comes to the character of the car, I know I'm biased, but the MR2 was pretty soul-less, a bit plastic and a bugger in the wet or ice. The engine was OK, smooth and a bit more power than the 16v corrado, but I wouldn't say really quicker and certainly not any more fuel efficient. Overall I reckoned it had about as much personality as the RAV4 (with the same engine) my parents had, competent, good in many respects, but just a bit dull - and with the glass T-bar it was really gay too :lol:

spanners 'should' be the right length to get the right torque for most bolts, with the exception of bolts that go into softer alloys. I do use my torque wrench for wheel bolts and I've even been seen using them for the suspension legs, but driveshaft splines are just to much of a pain to get at, I might have checked one or two, but soon realised I'd got them about right anyway. Main engine parts are another thing altogether, I wouldn't guess at flywheel bolts, most of my torque settings came from Haynes, dread to think of what miss-prints there might be! - but my clutch is still in one piece :-) the attached is for a golf, posted on club gti forum, god knows what the exclamation mark is for!

:? I just use a splined drive in it's 3/8 drive socket, you could use a torque wrench but I've only ever just tightened them by hand with a normal ratchet.

make sure your protect those relays, I've seen so many really badly corroded and fail, they just aren't intended for under the bonnet fitment.

my last three 'new style' MOT's didn't need the engine number, that's on two different cars over the last 16 months???

That's odd too, I'd always understood that in the past a lot of the car supermarket deals were cars imported from Ireland rather than the continent as RHD cars are obviously easier to source there.

depends on your graphics card and driver doesn't it?, I got this to work OK on an old pc yonks ago, pain though, especially losing the menus at the top!

The 16v is quite a good car as standard, really the last development of the old 16v engine VW did, and makes a big difference over the old 8v lump, that's why they go for more, plus they often have air con and other extras. Slap on a flowed head, re-chip and you'll get 170bhp out of them easily with better mid-range than a Corrado 16v thanks to the fully electronic injection system. The 8v is not really a GTI at all, it's almost 50kg heavier than a 4cylinder corrado and needs lower stiffer suspension to handle well, having said that the 8v engines are very reliable, fairly economical, pretty cheap to maintain and easy to work on. There was an M reg 8v at the garage I get my MOT done at earlier this year, being scrapped. The owner had simply left it at the garage as it needed about 800 quids worth of work to get it through an MOT (mostly labour - leaking shocks, worn out brakes etc.) He dumped it rather than pay what the car was worth to keep on the road, the car was actually in pretty good nick and I was tempted as they wanted nothing for it - scrap value, didn't have the time to fix it up though.

the 1.8 has two pressure sensors that will cause this beeping, both are on top of the oil filter housing, one is for idle pressure (low pressure warning), the other is for about 2500rpm (low pressure warning), usually one has a black top the other white, although sometimes a brown top is used, make sure the wires and sensors are in good nick, the wires are very exposed here and can go brittle and corrode. The sensors sometimes leak oil and can eventually piss it out! Very cheap to replace, they connection to them earths through the sender to the block. The other possible problem is genuinely low oil pressure from a knackered pump or blocked pickup pipe in the sump, less likely if the car has been serviced properly though. Age and wear and tear makes it more likely to be the wires or senders I reckon, luckily! I think it's the black/brown top one that is the idle pressure one, that would be the most likely of the two for your symptoms. David.