davidwort

My sister (bless her) drove for 6 months around Milton Keynes in her mini with basically no pressure in her tyres whatsoever (run-flats). By the time it was serviced she need 4 new tyres and run-flats are not cheap! It doesn't matter what you say to some people, they think anything and everything on their car is catered for by the yearly service and all they do in between is put fuel in it.

to be fair I shouldn't think VW sell many of these, only to a few enthusiasts. Anyways: SKF: http://www.oemparts.co.uk/volkswagen-parts/1755-VW-Corrado-53l-1987-1995-2-9-VR6/Part-100013-50-VKBA1491-654-Wheel-Bearing-Kit SNR (Euro Car parts): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/231089084614?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95&ff19=0

one tiny drop of oil will produce a cloud of smoke, so any oily petroleum based product is likely to burn with some smoke, I'm never very convinced by any product like this but running some through gradually with a tank of fuel is probably the best bet, I can't see it cleaning deposits off the back of your valves much though. It's also possible the smoother running is due to the product still being in your tank and burning through the engine constantly, my old banger seems happier with redex in the tank too.

Funny, I thought stretched tyres was obviously a dangerous thing, it just looks mechanically wrong, but the internet seems to think otherwise. I bet an insurance assessor would have something to say though if you're involved in a serious accident and the tyres were clearly intended for rims half the width. Edit: I'm more likely to trust advice from someone like Yokohama: http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires_101/customizing/rim_wheel_width/ according to yokohama you should have tyres about 4cm wider on those

play were doing ipad mini 1's for £200 Tesco hudl has high def screen and hdmi out (£60 in Tesco clubcard vouchers) old or new nexus 7 second hand ipad 2/3 if you can get a good deal on the Samsung tablets you might get a 10" screen

I'd imagine the cleanliness of the factory assembly lines has something to do with this, it's bloody annoying though when everything seems fine and spotless and yet you get judder and when you throw one together it runs fine :) Still, I'd rather suffer a bit of judder now and then than have a dual-mass flywheel in there!

It's like AA in here :hic: , we all share your pain and understand your feelings :|

headlining felt from scrapped large cars and vans was always my favourite, don't use in damp locations like the inside of doors but great for rear quarters, centre tunnel, under dash and floor and anywhere you can stuff and glue it out of sight, it's light compared to the thin sheet high mass stuff which I only use in certain locations it's more suited to.

I had a few one from vw spares that was crap too.

It's the arm spring that is the main issue, nothing wrong with good quality old style blades

Do you have spark? The hall sender on the distributor can break down

incoming pm!

Jason, I have one you can have, grey though, good excuse for me to catch up with you

blimey! nearly as many Corrados on sorn now as taxed on the road! http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/combined/corrado

if ever there was a case for valet mode on ECU's

Oh good, glad you got it sorted, was wondering whether I dare ask about it :) what did it need?

Jetex used to be fairly quiet, but I'm sure you will get more noise without the suitcase silencer position filled, it's one of those things where you'll find it's fine at certain revs but may resonate at others. Is it stainless steel? Stainless is harder and generally noisier than mild steel too, obviously depends on quality and type of baffles and sound deadening.

I'm not sure the voltage gauge is of much use TBH, if the alternator stops charging the red light will come on the dash anyway, but it's nice to see you have full charging voltage on the gauge anyway :) I did find the various feeds in the dash loom to give less than battery voltage though, I think there's a lot of voltage drop in the switching and wiring in the car, I'd test what voltage you get with a multimeter first before wiring it all up, you might find you need to try another feed to get the full 13.8 volts reading or close to that.

Ah, yep, they often corrode there, not very well protected near the connectors on this age of vw, I've put extra sleeving on mine like the mk3 and later looms.

Testing the sensor is pretty easy, you need a meter with resistance measuring and run the engine from cold, record the resistance every 30 secs or so until the radiator fan kids in, then compare the values you have to the range graph for that sensor, I think the Bentley manual has the coolant sensor graph if not I found one for the digifant 8v fairly easily trawling the web. I've found even vw sensors vary, enough to affect the gauge, but as long as its within the allowed range it should read ok. Iirc resistance increases with temp on these sensors, so faulty wiring usually increases resistance and the gauge then reads high, shorting the loom pins should give you a maxed out reading on your gauge.

Cool, so what was the problem with the switch/wiring then?

Thermostat stuck open?

you just need a switched live from behind the dash somewhere, something like the feed to the heater blower speed switch, illumination can be taken off the ash tray illumination feed.

I wonder if this would fit, £1.79 from Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/double-pole-sub-miniature-2480

The buzzer will sound if the switches aren't earthing, touch them both to earth/block directly (wires that is) and buzzer should stop, unless you have a break in the wiring, but like I said you can check that by seeing if you have voltage at the wires