davidwort

Yep

Yep, the standard clutch in the 8v is more than up to the job, an uprated friction disc and release plate is likely to make it heavy and aggressive, basically ruining the gearchange and possibly increasing wear on the box and driveshaft joints.

sounds like (compression) piston ring sealing problems, perhaps a bit of oil pumped around is enough to help them seal after running for a bit

I'd say a bit too thin, that's more the spec for modern engines, don't think your tappets will like it, a 10-40 semi synthetic is fine.

That's the second one we've heard go recently, the last was a euro car parts one, some of these pattern joints seem to have very dubious quality steel.

Usually only very early 16v and 2.0 8v that don't have the sunroof as it was an option on these, I'm sure I've seen one or two other models though, it certainly saves a lot of weight!

I've a bent mid sized flat head watch makers screwdriver specially for the job :) works fine every time, screw is not normally very tight as it's short and the head is sat on the plastic of the switch

Well worth getting set up right though, mine went from 165 to 175bhp when wur and ignition advance set up on stealths rolling road

yes, mk2, 3 and Passat 88-96 for a 4cyl corrado, especially 16v the old pink Passat Haynes (88-91) is OK as the Passat shares much of the same parts including gearbox, Bentley is OK for some stuff but written for 2.8 US corrado SLC and US spec G60 so not everything is identical

no, that type (early) has a different recessed light in the bumper with a screw accessible from the front of the lense and a small clear/grey blanking plug over it

ah that makes it all clear :lol:

Corrado is for driving not parking :)

because your first few posts need moderator approval

in fact first just remove the passenger parcel shelf, pull the tab on the rim of the motor housing down a little so you can twist and remove the motor, then holding the motor tightly but still connected to the loom turn the ignition and fan switch on to full, if the fan doesn't blow really hard then try it direct to your battery to rule out the switchgear/contacts etc, they'll always be a little voltage drop through the loom and switch but not enough to really slow the fan at all.

a fully working motor will really blast air out, if some of the windings have gone, which I suspect yours has, you'll just get a gentle breeze :) and it probably won't sound smooth either.

speed 4 is essentially just direct 12V power to the fan, the other speeds just put a big resistor of varying resistance in series so dropping the power, if you remove your current fan and simply put two wires straight from your battery to it's power connectors you will get full power from the fan, hold it firmly as it's a powerful motor and gives quite a kick of torque. If your motor is shot it will spin but not blast air at you, one of mine went in pretty much the same way.

new motor I'm afraid, I can recommend these for £25 delivered been using one for a couple of years no trouble: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321157973200?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

sourcing parts from VW themselves is the safest bet, they do change their suppliers so there's no guarantee you'll get the same supplier each time but generally the parts are of the best quality and most likely to last. after that I'd put FEBI close to the bottom of the list, some of their stuff I've had has been really low quality, but it varies from one part to another, Lemforder make genuine wishbones AFAIK so would be worth the cost over cheap pattern ones, TRW were definitely an OEM supplier for some parts too. SKF made genuine bearings but even companies like that have different plants and may use a different one to supply the aftersales market to VW. Just steer clear of the cheaper versions of parts that GSF, ECP etc use.

Clearly didn't think it was going to reach 3 grand (for a scruffy old valver with worn leather seats) never understood why Corrado leather or recaro leather goes for so much, when you can get much nicer leather seats for less from more recent vag cars

What a bunch of wusses, I had 205's on my mk1 and no power steering at all, you lot don't know you're born, I'm surprised you can cope without an electronic parking brake and auto gearbox

I'd imagine it would on the 16v, if you ever get to meet up with someone who has vag-com/vcds and the 2+2 connector lead for the 9a (ccgb stand at shows etc) it would still be interesting to see what comes up. Is your coolant sensor ok? It's easy enough to test on the car, you just need a thermometer and multi meter that does resistance, run the car to temp and then turn off, then take temp and resistance readings every 5 minutes for an hour or so, also when cold. The sensor graphs for resistance and temp are fairly easy to find to make sure it's always in tolerance at all temps, I've found sensors also vary from one to another.

They seem to vary, the old rack on my early 16v has always been heavy maneuvering but the 8v is much lighter, both are still on original racks but a recon and second hand pump respectively, I suspect the mk3 golf type pump on the 8v is slightly better than the mk2 style one on the valver, I think the vr pump is closer to the mk3 type.

If the metering head air flap sticks it won't open the slits inside the plunger to allow fuel to flow out to the injectors, this seems like what happened from your description, if you want to check fuel delivery and injector spray pattern it's not too difficult to remove the fuel pump relay, Bridge it's main connections on the fuse box and use the battery negative lead to turn the power on and off, then open the air box, lift the air flap gently and fuel should be delivered. Best pull all 4 injectors and spray into bottles for 30 seconds, this will allow you to observe all 4 spray patterns and compare delivery volumes between them.

He said he wants to do some big miles though, there's good reasons why old fiats are dirt cheap :) old 3 or 5 series BMW?

Just use ordinary bolts