davidwort

think I might get one of those, they're so cheap, I have access to a fully supported snapon diagnostics computer but this would be very handy to have at home, just for checking sensors etc (egr valve just gummed up again on the golf) anyone know how useful the shareware version is? I see from the Ross-Tech site that it can only access the first 25 measuring blocks, is that really limiting? would you be able to read temperature data, lambda or diagnose which abs sensor has failed with VCDS-Lite?

5L £13 delivered from Car Parts 4 Less today http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/p/////?521776011&0&cc5_245&utm_source=CP4L+Customers&utm_campaign=196ebfe3dc-CarParts4Less_Offers_Newsletter4_5_2013&utm_medium=email

If they quote 88-95 they clearly don't know model and age differences, it's likely to be the later bar type hanger though.

As a 96 ady engine, a mk3 golf gti kit may fit to the maf on your car, but I wouldn't bother, it's best left as it came from the factory.

There is a fair bit of variation, some back boxes are interchangeable but the other sections vary more due to cat variation and in the case of the 1.8 16v, no cat at all. The biggest change was in the 1992 model year when all models changed from hook hangers to bar type.

Sorry, not yet, had a stinking cold and been trying to stay indoors as much as possible, keep reminding me though :)

Nah, the usual problem is someone undoing the bolt mistakenly when doing a cambelt change and then not renewing the bolt

You simply need to check the crank pulley bolt is tight!

Old injectors cannot be cleaned, they actually wear out, but the usual symptoms are poor idling, open throttle is usually fine, if you're sure both the lift pump and main under car pump are ok then the metering head may have a problem, they are pretty reliable if left alone, usually only moisture in the fuel causes a problem. Is the HG ok?

Yep, but it's not the easiest to get at, I've done the pressure hose (pump to rack hose) with everything in place, wasn't that bad but was lucky enough to have access to a four post lift to get the car in the air to get onto the rack union.

Just as an altenative view, at the bottom end of the laptop scale, I bought my son an entry level dell for Christmas, win7 but i think the current equivalent is win8. It was only 250 quid from asda (of all places), a dual core celeron, so I wasn't expecting much, but I have to say that it's fantastic. i've always been of the attitude that most people way overbuy spec on new computers and this little dell proves my point in my mind anyway! 500Gb hard drive, 4Gb ram, hdmi out (if he wants to plug it into the telly) and the most important thing is it is plenty powerful enough for everything but the latest top end games. It's even pretty well made. if you're really only web browsing and watching YouTube on on demand tv then an iPad or decent spec android tablet is great, but as a primary computer for doing just about anything on I'd seriously try out a new cheap laptop, MacBooks are lovely, but at 3 or 4 times the price you really have to want or need one or just have money to burn. edit: and like oz above, buy a kindle fire or nexus 7 if you want a cheap tablet too, for the best of both worlds.

Same as a mk2 golf or passat, getting onto the rack is a pita and a garage lift is really needed, other than the it's just unions to undo and do up. you need to run it lock to lock lots of times to flush the air out when you refill with fluid, it will bubble and groan a lot until that's done.

I've an 8v and 16v, don't think they will swap as the head outlet isn't the same although the rad is identical, but I might be wrong, will check tomorrow, I'm sure you can get pattern rubber hoses for the 16v gsf did them for a while an ive seen them on ebay, but if not then I'm sure you could get silicone hoses that would fit, elbows of the right diameter or a proper designed kit, I bought a full 16v samco set as it was cheaper than a couple of vag hoses at the time.

G60 pads are the same size, just a little thicker and the calipers a little wider in the jaws, the only obvious difference is the greater offset of the g60 carriers for the 280 discs.

Same engine, only difference from most MK 2s is the narrower inlet manifold tracts, but it's actually better than the wider ones as gives more torque low down.

Sounds unlikely, more like you have a coil problem. Have you checked the idle ignition timing with a timing light and increased the revs?

It should just groan on full lock, probably the belt slipping on yours, a new pas belt would be a good idea while you are at it.

No, there are no welds, it is and 'idler' pulley so has a slip bearing built in, it is two parts and designed to allow slip against the water pump rotation, but I have heard of people welding them up, it will damage your belt eventually but will probably work for a long time. the squeal on full lock always happens, the manual says not to hold on full lock! none of the pulleys come with the water pump, and the outer two part pulley is quite expensive, over a hundred pounds from vw if it is still available

Don't delete it, they are very efficient and help warm the engine up too.

Could just be the idler wheel for the alternator belt if it has one, late 1991 cars onwards do away with this, it looks like a second outer pulley on the water pump, but doesn't actually drive the pump, it has a slip bearing which breaks up and then the pulley rattles.

Yeah, unmetered air, i.e. leak in inlet after metering head somewhere, could cause high idle, or a faulty ISV, or over advanced base distributor timing.

First and second syncros have a hard life, a change of gearbox oil may help, especially when cold, if you refill with a suitable synthetic gear oil like vw's own or redline mt90. The throw can only be adjusted for all gears, one of the two cable connection 13mm bolts on top of the gearbox. It sounds like your starter may not be disengaging properly.

The engine mechanical timing is set up with the cam cover off, so you can see the cam to cam marks align, then of course the mark on the back of the cambelt pulley can only align with the head surface as the cover is off. the outer mark should indeed line up with the V on the cam cover as in your pic. It's a shame you didn't take pics of all the marks earlier as I asked though :) you must have a proper quality lambda to get a 9a to idle hot properly, but it does sound like your ISV is dodgy

:new-bday: Seems the nearest appropriate smiley Dunno how I missed that, been on here 10 years since January

It's a 2L on the original ke-jetronic system isn't it? The mixture is controlled by the ecu (electronic control pressure regulator on the side of the metering head) the metering head is calibrated when made, if you remove the orange? tamper proof cap from the metering head allen socket adjuster you may not get the thing set right again, this seems to be the cause of lots of 2L 16v running issues, it's often tweaked when trying to correct for other problems on the engine, just a word of warning :)