davidwort

cam lobes pressing on the valvegear can make lining everything up a pain, cams tend to want to rest just off the marks

one bad apple in what looks like such a nice family (photos off facebook) :lol: Kev et. al. bloke has his snap on van broken into idiot that did it then brags about how he got caught but the 2 months in prison was easy then other members find his address, photos etc from his facebook pages

you want a valeo mk3 golf matrix, these don't have to be sourced from VW, just make sure it's not a cheap pattern one, they're essentially a little radiator and quality/construction issues are basically the same, cheap ones are not as robust. with with a radiator going you'll just get stuck waiting for the AA, with a matrix blowing you could get boiling water on your feet and no visibility as the screen mists up!

You wait till those bar-steward squirrels come looking for dinner and pi55 all over your paintwork.

It'll still spill over when you wash the car though, be better to have proper protection of the battery, and the jackets help in winter.

Mmm, seems unlikely, I've only ever seen the key break when valves hit pistons :( or if a pulley bolt works loose. so to recap: inter cam marks aligned cam pulley inner mark aligned with head surface flywheel mark aligned with gearbox casing 'v' crank pulley mark aligned with cambelt cover arrow distributor body mark and rotor arm tip align and on no.1 plug lead. is the no.1 plug lead sensor lead/ring in place? good compression on all 4? plugs all ok I'm trying to list everything as there's a couple of experienced vag mechanics I can ask there opinion/ suggestions

Did you have the cam cover off then? Were the cam wheel marks, cam to cam, lined up at the same time as all the other marks, particularly the cam belt exhaust cam pulley, I'm only going over this again to rule out shearing of the pulley woodruff key (or alignment slot), the pulley has an inner mark that should be level with the head surface.

That's a Corrado feature :) shame a mk4 full casing doesn't fit.

I looked into the gearbox ratios a while back, the 1.8 Corrado has the lowest ratios, agc gearbox, that car had the highest red line, in fact I'm pretty sure it has the same ratios as the mk2 16v, will see 60 in second though with the 7,200 red line, what I have on my 16v. the box on the 9a Corrado 2L 16v is next, with the mk3 16v box being the longest legged. corrado 8v or 16v rad will be fine, cools my breathed on 2L well (genuine rad only mind, Denso Marsden brand).

Looks fun: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mk2-VOLKSWAGEN-SCIROCCO-GTX-TURBO-not-golf-rabbit-corrado-fiesta-escort-/181102329361?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a2a8a3e11

we currently have a 'postie' that only ever puts parcel 'collection' cards through the letterbox, never even rings the doorbell, this enables him to get back to the post office PDQ to start a second round that he gets paid for too (Spanish-working-practices...) and then our main letter delivery (which obviously can fit through the letterbox) often comes at 7pm.... sigh.....

True, but the abf is better suited to higher revving (rod angles) and has a better flowing head and higher lift and longer duration cams than even a kr engine, it's mechanically the best version of the 16v engine, so for ease of fitment just drop it in place of the original lump. It would be a better swap for a kr though as the 2.0 ke-jet would really need a remap to get the best out of the abf. Abf on its proper efi injection is good though, most of these cars are virtually the same power as the 2.8 golfs, vw was just conservative with the figures otherwise it would have made the vr look bad :)

Sounds like the belt has jumped a tooth or two, I get confused myself with the dizzy being the other end of the head, but if the cam pulley jumped forward a tooth or two then the distributor would still be 'in time' with the exhaust cam as it is mechanically connected to it but the engine top and bottom would be out of time, likewise you change the engine timing if you move the belt a tooth but the distributor doesn't change it's relationship to the cams, unlike the 8v where the intermediate shaft can be turned separately to alter just the distributor position. I'd still like to see pics of all your timing marks to compare, there's plenty of range on the dizzy adjustment, there's a big problem if it seems to need to go further.

can't find that No. ? N102 078 04 is what I have for the Corrado and G60 golf rear bolt (4mm longer than the general mk2 golf bolt which ends in '01'), and no corrrado has sleeves on the bolts, all Corrado subframes have little horse-shoes as part of the subframe that the rear bushing centre slots into

Well it will if you fit the 9a inlet,throttle body and injection system, the block and head is basically the same as a 9a but longer rods and improved valve gear and ports

I'm not saying they are bad boxes, just that they are built to a price, the drawer bearing runners seem fine and nothing has actually broken ( had my HD for about 5 years) I like mine and it's pretty full of kit it's just I have friends and family in the trade with snap-on kit and if you want something to last a lifetime then you pay your moneys... Just trying to give a fair review, took me ages to choose my cabinet and top box and I looked at all the halfords ones etc at the time, just have a really close look at them and make sure it's what you want, I went for the 6 drawer base and 3 plus 3 small drawers in the top box, suits me fine although you can always do with more storage :), I wouldn't be able to see in the top of a taller unit though :)

They're ok for the money, but some edges are a bit rough and one of my locking casters on the base unit has bent slightly and it won't roll straight anymore (not got that much weight in it and not the tallest top box), I've hardly used them really and I don't think they'd stand up brilliantly to hard daily use in a workshop, does me fine for home use though.

Pipe in back of air box is just warm air pickup, should have flexi pipe to exhaust manifold but not essential. As long as no air leaks after metering head, e.g. Vac pipes or breather, then you'll b ok.

Look at the abf into a MK 2 guide on club gti forum

can you post a pic of the dizzy with the cap off? so going back again, does it fire but not run now? I once had my kjet 16v fail to run after a long period of an engine rebuild, in the end it required nothing more than several primes of the pump to get the system pressurised to start, it wouldn't do it by just cranking and cranking, we turned the ignition on and off again several times before engaging the starter

the timing marks should all line up, period. Ignore the whole 6 deg BTDC thing, that mark (on some flywheels) is just there to set up base ignition timing with a non-adjustable gun. I've done 1.8 and 2.0 16v blocks loads of times. The only other issues I can think of are a sheared woodruff key on the cam pulley or crank pulley or the cam to cam timing out. So, you should have cyl 1 at tdc (dowel/rod in spark plug hole) cam pulley inner mark level with surface of cam cover/head front timing mark on cam pulley straight up lower belt pulley mark aligned with cambelt cover arrow intermediate shaft doesn't matter on 16v flywheel mark level with V notch on gearbox casing ditributor arm aligned with mark on side of metal body plugs/leads 1342 anti-clockwise (as dizzy is driven off exhaust cam) from mark on dizzy body petrol compression spark ??? Oh, ignore the ignition timing at 2,500rpm thing, that's only for digifant engines, 16v's are at idle warm with rad fan off

keep an eye out for an old passat breaking (up to 1996) front bracket is a passat part.

or just use lots of white silicone sealant instead like the previous owner of my 8V!

yep, as said just time everything up on TDC marks for the engine/mechanical timing. Ignition timing is then controlled (plenty of adjustment) by twisting the dizzy which will not affect the moving bits in the engine. Always, always, turn it over by hand a couple of times by the crank pulley bolt as you can get a lot of bent valves on a 16v otherwise! If you have a non adjsutable timing light then a mark on the 6 deg BTDC can be used for setting ignition timing HTH There might be another mark on the flywheel, a dot on the side of a tooth?

That makes a lot of sense, thank you :) based on that I might set mine up for more lock turning right for mini roundabouts :lol: