davidwort

Yep, I'm still leaning towards the 'it doesn't matter' camp, the two corrados I have (4 cyl cars) have only ever been set up on basic alignment kit and I've set the camber and they drive spot on, we usually clamp the steering wheel and adjust both sides, never measuring rod lengths, even when changing them. If needed I remove the steering wheel and turn it a spline though. I'm not in the habit of holding my cars on full lock but I've not encountered any wheel rubbing or anything, they drive great, corner great, centre fine, tyre wear is always very even and in over 150k on the two cars I've never had any other issues that could be related to setting them up like this.

Have smileys, will use them :salute:

you need some movement IMO, or CV joints, gearboxes mounting brackets and so on are put under unnecessary shock, might be fine on a race car where vibration and stress is part of the job, but you want a road car to be a little more civilised and last more than a couple of thousand miles before replacing broken parts, take the mk4 mountings they have a lot of movement, but engine isolation is good and the mountings are better positioned and designed to allow necessary movement in the right directions, that said they can feel a little too pliant.

front end will lift, rear will sit down, however the hydraulic mounts are designed to do this to some extent so only excessive lift on the front is easy to diagnose really, best indicator is age, a genuine mount (including rear and Gbox) will be 'soft' when it gets to 20yrs old, so replacement will improve. really bad mounts will just not hold the engine properly and you feel weight shifting and clonking on turns and acceleration and braking. you can always take them out and clamp in a vice and bend them from the top, you'll soon see one that is very shot, rubber bonding comes away, hydraulic fluid leaks and they wobble about easily.

search and ye shall find... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49405-Knocking-noise-when-pulling-away&highlight=engine+mount

that's interesting, as 16v ISV's are hard to come buy (in comparison to the 8v counterparts) I tried running one on my valver some years back, and guess what, idles perfectly, hot or cold, summer or winter, there's just a slight difference in the inlet and outlet positions but it fits the bracket and pipework fine. I'm talking 1.8 K-jet here, the metal bodied VDO ISV, not the 2.0 16v black plastic (bosch?) isv. But I remember some time ago 'CrazyDave' asking about ISV duty cycles, so the ECU's must be match to the ISV electro-magnet in some way, bit beyond me though :) your explanation of the accumulator sounds good, in which case a mk1, early mk2 8v or even an XR3i or capri one would probably work fine, probably best to get one from a 4 cylinder basic K-jet though if possible, plain K-jet does seem to run at a high pressure. I'd register and look into the 16v section on the club gti forum though, loads more work done on 16v engine swaps and so on in there, some very knowledgable users, in particular toyotec? he's turboed an ABF 16v and seems very clued up on the tiniest of details in spec variations on 16v engines over the years

have you asked on club GTI?

ah those were the days, when he could remember his own name and the Parkinsons hadn't properly set in.

I've still no idea why this is important, no one has explained it to me and I've never done it 'properly' myself

That figure plus one mm or minus one mm is ok :)

I wouldn't fancy running a 16v without one, I'd imagine starting would become really annoying, given how long it takes me to start after working on the fuel lines and dropping the pressure out of the system. Also, given that the system is a constant injection system I'd imagine fuel delivery may be affected too if pressure can fluctuate. I've never chopped one apart but if it does act as a pressure control unit then I'd imagine the correct part would be pretty critical to fuelling.

Pmsl :lol: but imagine finding out someone like that did own the car before you, :eek: I'd have to break it

Ah, yes, just re-read and seen 'weitecs' :)

I thought you needed the right year and diameter of spring top plate too and that would also require bump stops and dust covers to match?

Part is the same as for almost every vw to 1992, these are the same: http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1876&category_id=57&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

GSF should have them on the shelf, they usually come in the packet with the flanges too so you could check the size from there. front is 027 121 139A KR/9A engines end of head is N 902 954 01 (round seal) 29.2mm x 3mm KR/9A engines

Just whack the plugs out of 2,3,4 and turn the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley bolt, you'll feel the compression if it is sealing on no. 1

That sounds ominous, no compression would mean no burn and could be a bent valve :(

Yeah, I'd be tempted to do that, all they'd do if they cottoned on is make you apply for retrospective planning permission and unless you've made a god damn mess why would they refuse?

O is tdc, the other mark, usually a thin line is 6 degrees before tdc, depends if you have an advance adjustable timing light or not which one to use, I've seen several 4 cyl corrados but never one missing the O tdc mark.

^ Who's the tw$# who pulled out on you in the old vw, I'd send that footage to the police, looks like a menace to other road users!

expecting a meteor shower? they do look like a good idea though, even if it is just for a youtube compilation, I'm sure we could all put together one of those, I see at least one near miss/idiot every morning, and it's not always me.

the linings are different but the roof is basically the same, you might find the motor changes as it does on the corrado when the auto-close function was added

how old is the machine and what condition? most machines get over-loaded all the time and this leads to distorted drums and vibration, like and out-of-balance car wheel. I've run machines on suspended floors and concrete floors and a new or properly balanced machine should be fine even with a high spin speed.

Catering sausages, best not to ask any questions and just eat them... from the news item today: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-21530861 and the 'Baader' machine in action (about 1 minute in will do): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX4x9GtpbiA