SoundsAlarming

Although after this comment I'm having second thoughts.....were not all butchers you know :wink:

I have an install manual for it, but my bloody scanners buggered. I can photocopy it and post it to you if you still need it though. PM me

The fault wont be the relay as this is switched by a common signal which is then distributed to either left or right by the stalk. It wont be the fuses because theres a common fuse for both sides. Its not the stalk because the hazard switch outputs do not go through it but the hazard switch also wont flash the left side. Which leaves either the hazard switch or the connections to it. If you have the hand to eye cordination of a brain surgen you could try to strip and clean the switch, if not get a new one

the hazard switch would be my guess

dont think so

karpc.com

Try Wolf http://wolfelec.co.uk/product/wolfpwindow.htm They do full retro kits including switches and wiring

try here http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?p=80961

The scorpion systems were dealer fit not OE fit

The scorpion system is CAT1 issue 1 approved and as long as it was originaly installed before 1999 it will always be CAT1 approved, all you need is a VSIB apporved installer to check it over for corect operation and he can issue you with a cert. Some dealers will fob you off and try to tell you that issue 1 systems are no longer approved but thats bollox. Arm yourself with some info from http://www.vsib.co.uk before you take it in.

if the immobiliser sets itself after 30ish seconds theres a fair chance its CAT1 and provided it was installed before 1999 any VSIB installer can check it over and certify it. If not then its not approved and you will need a new installation. I would recommend a Toad Ai606 for a CAT1 or an Auto Watch 172 for a CAT2

Yeah, sounds like a blown alarm fuse on the CL circuit

The iTrip is not legal in the UK

Compaire the ECU with the plug on the loom and find out which pins are redundent (theres always a few). Just remove one of those and use it to replace the damaged one.

Sounds like a ground fault to me. Check that the battery terminals are clean and tight Check that the ground cable from the battery is clean and tight to the body Check the engine to body ground is sound. A quick test for ground faults like this is to attach a booster cable from the -ive side of the battery to the engine. If the car starts with it attached you know thats the fault.

Usually (but not always) its caused by a build up of muck and dust in the switches. I'd get a can of compressed air and a can of contact cleaner and clean all the switches in the steering column. From memory the biggest culprit is the indicator switch. Make sure that none of the wires are dis-coloured as this could mean that the problem is else ware. I would leave the plastic casing off for a few days after incase it does it again, that way you will be able to see exactly where the smoke is coming from.

Bloody hell! Its not your day is it mate. It can still be done but your going to need to use something to pull the card up and away from the window rubber without damaging it. Damaging the top of the door card is the worst place because its the bit that everyone can see, so be carefull.

Sadly in my experience theres no easy way. You are going to need to remove the door card and try to un-jam the lock. I cant remember having to do this to a C but ive done a golf. If you remove the passanger seat it gives you plenty of space to work in. Removing the door card with the door closed is a b*tch, but if your carefull you should get it off with very little damage. Start by removing all the screws you can get to, then open the window and peel the top part of the card up from the window gap, from there you can pull the card away from the door enough to get a pry bar to the clips. Its better to break clips rather than the door card, but if your carefull you should be able to releace them without breaking too many. Once its off I would spray the mechinism with a load of WD-40 then pull & prod it until it opens. Its not a nice job so good luck.

I sell ipod holders and ProClips on my web site http://shop.sounds-alarming.co.uk If you use a ProClip you can route the cable behind it. I'll do you a deal if your interested (as a the-corrado.net member) say £10.00 + vat

To get it out you'll need to drill the rivits. If you can lower the window, get it down and release the mechinism from the glass first. That way you can get the glass back up and out of the way (secure back it with gaffer tape). Then drill the rivits and manover the whole thing out. You can get a new motor from Euro Car Parts at a fractuon of the VAG price.

The blue wire is bonnet and boot, you will need to connect it to both

Yep, they are defiantly illegal. Its an offence to leave a car unattended whilst its running. There was a case during the cold spell we had recently where people were prosecuted by the 'five 0' for starting their cars and going back in the house, the same applies to remote starts even if the car is locked. Clifford are the only manufacturer to offer a fool proof remote start for manual cars. It involves an activation process when you leave the car, something like this: With the engine running, select neutral and apply the hand brake. Press the remote start button on the remote fob, remove the keys from the ignition. Get out of the car and close the door Set the alarm. The engine stops running only when the alarm has been armed. This way there is no way that the car will be started in gear. They also do a transponder repeater that turns off immobilisers.

Bobby, Have you used the alarms brown or gray wire to pulse the lock side of the CL65 relay? The brown only pulses for a second so it wont raise the windows where as the gray wire holds the pulse for longer (20ish seconds i think). If you did use the gray, you must have conected the relay to the wrong wire on the car. The bonnet switch wire is blue i think ( Ill check later just to confirm that) The ultrasonics are self setting. They adjust themselves every time you set the system, so they are spot on whether the car is empty or full of boxes.

Try re-setting it by disconecting the battery again and leaving it off for 5 minutes. (make sure you haven't left any wires off the battery) If that dosn't work find the alarms locking fuse and check that. Can't think of anything else it could be.

I've never come across a system that will operate directly from another remote, although I've installed overlay systems that will arm and dis-arm from OE remote locking. You could try to fit the circuit board of the alarm fob into the flip key i suppose but it'll be a bit hit and miss.