markmcie

Could be the blue temp. sensor at the front of the block. There are two sensors plugged into the water hose that runs from the block to the rad. Disconnect the blue sensor with the engine running and the revs should drop. If not then the sensor is dodgy and should be replaced. Only a few quid from GSF.

When I bought my G60 the owner commented that there was some clutch judder. I took it for a test drive and it seemed to me more like dodgy engine mounts. Brought the car home, replaced all mounts and its fine ever since.

without

Have a Passat 110 TDI myself. 166k on the clock and it goes like a rocket. Have a tuning box fitted and for mid range kick its an amazing car. Tons of cabin space and boot space - more then needed by most people. More then comfortable for 3 adults in the back and it cruises over pot holes and speed bumps like they are not there. So much so the corrado is getting less and less use. Both cars are at complete opposites of the scale really. Passat - cruise in reassuring safety and comfort. Corrado - flat out balls to the wall ear deafening bone shaking screamer

Great thread this. I can totally relate to everything you lot have said. The revenge stories are great :-) Makes me wanna go home and get the Passat and drive into the side of a parked car haha.

No pics Im afraid Richard. I know Dave told Gary he was mad for selling it as in his opinion it was capable enough for his new project. My intercooler was originally used in a corrado by VST himself. So all round Im confident its a good one.

My intercooler has the inlet and outlet on one side Richard. Bought it off Gary with the custom pipes and its works great. Car goes really really well with it. Making 1950 on the MFA boost gauge which is about 12-13 PSI I think. I always thought the U bend outlet would be slightly restrictive cause the route the airflow has to take.

Congrats on the baby dude :-)

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download.php?id=20243 http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download.php?id=20244

P.S. Come on and update your thread in Members Gallery. Im sure you have being polishing the life out of the car :-)

Just got my charger back from JMR Geroid. He actually worked on it over the weekend for me so he could ship it back ASAP. Nice guy and the car is absolutely flying now. He did some extra porting for me aswell because despite my charger being stage 4 when I bought the car it there was a very minimal job done on it. My charger has a stamp in the casing "JMR STG4" no sticker thou. There is a pic of a charger I saw on the forum today with a JMR sticker and also the stamp on it. Cant find it now though. Sure PM him (he dosent not be online that often) and give him the reg of the car and he should have all the details. I have his number here if you need it too. He has done some work for GaryC aswell. A manifold for his 16vG60 as far as I know.

Sorry to go off topic but my clifford alarm is gone a bit mad aswell. Not as bad RobyD's but when I arm the alarm it makes a series of high and low bleeps (a bit like R2-D2 from star wars). And also the stelth mode option (press the 2 buttons at once and it arms silently) does not work. The manual says that one of the alarm sensors is faulty but Im wondering how I test it. Its getting to the stage that I get as far away from the car before I arm it so nobody sees me as the owner of the car that sounds like a pinball machine.

Check for leaves in the scuttle panel. Also left the black plastic housing on the passenger side. Check the gasket is not perished. Mine was so I had to use a bit of sealer to stop the water getting in. Worked a treat.

Thats correct, got 2100 at 6200 rpm Bix - I think this must be Vac related, maybe Darren has some ideas... Was hoping for 2100 myself after JMR worked his magic. Think I have a small boost leak from my intercooler so have to get that checked. Sorry for hi-jacking your thread Bix. But I was just concerned about my boost after reading that you are seeing 1950 at 2.5k. Im not sure its normal to see a high reading like that at low RPM.

Interesting. When I tried this at the weekend with my newly built and ported charger I was at red line before getting a reading this high. It has me concerned really. What do you guys normally see ?? At what RPM would your MFA be reading max boost.

Any more pics Gearoid ??

I need a grey passenger side cover Henny. If dlmb500 does not take it off Ill gladly take it. Mark

I very much doubt you will come across one of them to handy atall. I dont even think parts like that are available separately. Your best bet is probably to remove the seat from the car and try and do a repair on the broken tab. Maybe even buy a switch from an electronic store and fit that in the place of the broken one. Maplins are normally good for bits like that.

What I would do is drain the oil and leave it draining. Over night if possible. Just to be sure you get all the sludge out. Probably a total bleeding of the brakes is a good idea as brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and the brakes will probably be sh@it. New pads will probably be a definite and no doubt new disks too. And while your down there give the rubber brake lines a good inspection under pressure (i.e. getting someone to press the brake hard) and check for cracks or bubbling. Im going back to using a paper air filter myself. Once the car is safe to drive Im sure you might notice some more things will need doing. If there is petrol in the tank standing the last 3 years it will be stale and the car will like shi@t. If there is a lot it it Id try drain it and put some fresh stuff in.

When fitting a boost gague were is the best place to tap into to get the boost readings ??

There are 3 mounts. The engine sits on them. They are rubber and they absorb and control engine movement. One at the front in the middle mounted to the cross member, one at the gearbox side and one at the back on the other side. Generally the front one goes first cause its under the most pressure getting pulled and stretched as the engine accelerated and bucks backwards in the engine bay.

I would of also said engine mounts. My G60 was like that when I bought it and is going like that again. Have only about 8k on the new mounts but considering the car is making a bit more power then normal and also they were GSF mounts they might need changing again - the front at least. A solid front mount might be on the cards this time round. Give the engine a good rocking by holding onto the alternator or charger and check for excess movement.

There seems to be a lot of catch tanks on ebay.com. Thing is that nearly all of them have what appears to be an inlet and an outlet for re-cycling the oil. Now Im wondering if I get one of these and fit it will the oil just flow back out the outlet or can I fit a small filter and not have to worry about oil flowing back out. Here

If the bonnet is not opening remove the fuse box cover inside the car. Pull the release handle out all the way and you can see the end of the cable. Grip it with a pliers and give it a good tug. Hey presto bonnet should pop open.

There is a rubber O-ring inside the cap of the coolant bottle. If its not seated properly the system will over heat.