Shaggy

yeah thats what i mean... i dont know what it should be... then again i seem to remember hennys car being set a similar setting of 550 ohms?? and his certainly isnt standard!

so setting it at 1100 ohms is very lean then flusted??

Well if 2 cars have been set at 1100 odd ohms there must be a reason for it?? I got my info from a pitstop developments checklist guide, that steve made up a while back.. it says the CO pot should be set at 500 - 600 ohms...

yeah... hmm.. I did notice on my mot that the CO level was low something like 0.09% afaik most cat equipped cars are setup to run at 1.5%?? I mean i may be completely wrong but i dont know.. i even checked the BTS which should be no more than 260ohms with the fan on and that was smack on... When i adjusted the Co-pot down to 600 ohms the idle had now increased to 1200 rpms... so this needed to be setup again aswell

i thought your meant to check between the outer pins?? 1 & 3? speaking of readings i have just checked mine... from what i can tell the resistance was set at 1100 ohms on the Co-pot! now afaik thats too lean?? It should be 500 - 600 ohms shouldnt it??

one thing i have noticed is that the driver side wheel sticks out roughly an extra 5mm or so compared to the other side?? i am taking this is a difference in panel tolerancing etc...? I have 30mm adapters on the rear, the passenger side tucks in just right and never rubs... the driver side however is always the side that rubs... Would it completely shag the handling if i had a 25mm adapter on the rear driver side and leave the 30mm on the passneger to even the look out?? I took the car out again today and its still catching on the driver side rear...slightly

for the sake of £10 and a screwdriver its a lot cheaper! will give that a go... I take it i can get one from gsf? Thanks mate

I took an angle grinder to them.... carefully that is... managed to take pretty much all of the main part of the lip away.. then re-sealed. I thought was going to have problems with the inner arch coming away from the outer arch, but had no problems of the sort. I think i could go lower but i wanna leave it for a while and then set it all up properly on a proper flat surface so i can get it sitting evenly.. my drive is amazingly wonky.... 8)

Finally after a bit of DIY arch fettling the rear is alot loweer now, with minimal scrubbing!!! very pleased now! 8)

have a look here mate! http://www.badger5.co.uk/ Or if you fancy adding a bit of porsche to your car take a gander at this site! http://www.dutchdub.com/ I am definatley looking into the porsche type setup as you can by the parts you need when you can afford it.... caliper can be bought for around £150 - £200 on the bay... very tempting... :)

Yeah i saw a thread by sam on Dubforce.. ideally i would wanna go for VAG to be honest... havent had much luck in the past with aftermarket alternators...

its not making enough voltage on cold starts.. therefore makes the car run rich / rough for the first 5 mins untill battery is charged....

yeah i thought 90 amp was a bit high... Will have to find out the price for the 65 amp??

Result! Managed to go another 45mm lower! looks much better now, and no rubbing yet...

Seeing as my alternater is on its way out i thought i would pay VAG a visit, they are £212 + vat for a 90 amp item! didnt think they would be that expensive! has anyone else had similar issues? seems way to expensive to me?

for the time being i had to use this waxoil sealer, it goes rubbery when set. i think i still need to remove a bit more metal as it still rubs slightly after i lowered it another 20mm, although i think its better to do it in steps rather than take loads off at once. I have taken roughly 5mm from the front of the rear arch off and that has reduced rubbing quite a bit at the current ride height so its all good at the moment!

I took a grinder to the arches today! have to say it seems to have worked quite nicley!! i have taken off just the right amount so far but may need to remove a bit more if i want to go lower! Also re-sealed them all up again , had no problems with the inner arch either! although i did slip slightly and scratch the paint a little so be carefull! Will polish out though thankfully! If anyone does decided to go down this route definately take care when doing it!!

Puts my engine bay to shame! looking good! 8)

Excellent! i was only going to do a section but i may do the whole arch now! How long have you been able to go with the 9s on the back after the arch work?

did you trim the whole arch? or just the area needed?

Been having some problem lately with my rear arches and the fact they keep taking chunks outa my tyres... Anyway i dont wanna get them rolled as i dont really wanna take the risk and have the paint cracking , which would mean the whole panel needing a respray which i dont really fancy.. Anyway i have had the car jacked up and have taken a pic to highlight the area of concern, i know the rear arches are double skinned, after discussions with various people it was highlighted that maybe i could just cutaway that section and then re-seal with a decent plastic based sealer?? I wouldnt have thought that cutting away a small section like the one highlighted would cause too much trouble would it??

i was looking into this b4 my golf fmic?? apparently they fit quite nicely?? and they work quite well aswell...?

Theres no really increase in power really, afaik, its just that the FMIC works soo much better on the hotter days! really really noticable

Some GSF part numbers do clash from my previous experience, i would think they would fit regardless but you might want to check with GSF and the part numbers before you start fitting??

yeah mate! seen your charger! looks lurvly... cant wait to see what else youve done to the bay!