waynos

dunno if this i a repost , check it out why!!!!!!!!!!!!!

looks great , im starting to warm to nugget rados now. what profile tyres u running on the rear?

thanks mate, its taken long enough just to get that one done! but i shall take my time so they are all perfect

oh and the new dishes make them 9 inch. (ten if you go edge to edge) :)

to be honest the dash got put back with all my other projects but as ive finally managed to wire up the clocks im back on it.As i litterally got the bare dash ive had to make up brackets to hold it up. the main bulk of it will be a tt dash but the centre console will be custom and a few other bits. But im looking forward to getting that in! Need to plumb in all the heater ducting and im pretty much there

been a while since i updated. i managed to get hold of some image wheels for a bargain! test fit on car i started to split them down to repolish the dishes heres the result As i want to colour code the centres to the car i did a quick mock up with the wheels in matt black and something didnt seem right. The centres looked far to busy so out came the metal filler and i proceeded to fill the recesses in the spokes heres the result my 2.5 inch lips arrived today ( measure 3 inch but to the tyre seat its 2.5) mmmm yummy im starting to get excited again. had a little accident in the rado which is now all fixed up but i need to spray all the panels beore i get the wheels on

wow that looks amazing, that has inspired me to get mine sorted properly!

you will have to change the leds which can be a right arse to do. i changed mine for some super bright ones and they are dead again.think my hid's are heating the inside of the lamp and causing them to blow

I know the rear arches on corrados are double skinned but how are they joined together? Are they welded or just sealed?

Think ive worked it out. On my g60 clocks there isnt anything but on a set of 16v clocks they are. As long as they are the same Ill b fine

Cheers i forgot i could have looked in the bentley manual. I have one more question about the actual connector. Which pin is number 1 etc?

mate, you are the man! many thanks

hi guys can anyone help? i just need to find out what wire does what on the connector that goes into the g60 clocks (suppose the 16v would be the same) tried to look on elsa win but it comes up with a screen thats says no data for this vehicle or something

bling bling! very nice. i have a question for you.... are they 9's on the rear? if so what profile tyre are you running?

cool cheers guys

just to make things easier for me does anyone know what colour wire (at the ignition switch connector) provides ignition 12v also whilst cranking? ive mis placed my test lamp so cant check

ahhhh, might have to give that stuff a go! looked real in the flesh

car looked fantasticat ud, wish my paint work was that flawless! How much did it cost to have the spoiler done in carbon? ive been after the same thing but with a glossy finish

tasty! im pretty sure they are fiat coupe mirrors.... now wheres my prize at??? haha

aygo? as in "toyota" aygo. GET BACK IN YOUR RADO NOW MAN! :D

the only thing i can think of mate is the headlight switch. Mine went on me last week. Didnt let out any smoke but the smell was horrendous. Check the earth wire to the switch as that can melt when the switch decides to poop itself

few of mine needs a clean now though. last wash was last year lol

:epicfail: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2726800

Ever since ive had the 1.8t in the rado ive had this annoying whistle everytime im on boost, im also not making as much boost as its supposed to (pretty sure thats another issue) Decided to make something to check for a leak. heres what i used 1 hockey puck,1 airline fitting,1 m8 nut1 washer,1 silicone pipe,silicone sealant To start with i had to take about 5mm off the diameter of the hockey puck so that it would fit in the silicone pipe. I then drilled a hole through the centre slightly smaller than the airline fitting. I then hammered the airline fitting through - quite a tight fit. I made a thread onto the other side of this so i could put a washer and nut on it. This is to make sure the fitting doesnt come out under extreme pressure. Finally i sealed up the joins with silicone sealant just to make sure it was air tight. Job done! heres a few pics Once it was all together i removed the boost pipe nearest to the turbo outlet and clamped this in its place. I used an airline to link this to my compressor and set the output pressure to around 20 psi (my turbo is supposed to spike at 18 psi). As soon as i opened the tap i heard many leaks including the stupid whistle i originally heard. spent around 15 mins locating and rectifying the leaks. Sorted! And a vid, its hard to hear so turn your speakers up. you can hear that when i squeeze the pipe the air stops coming out. This was one of the smaller boost leaks My car still only peaks at 11 psi so im sure i have another problem, however it definatly pulls harder and sounds much much better.

im going to be replacing the wishbone bushes and ball joints at the front of the car and then fitting coilovers all round.i plan to get a 4 wheel alignment done after. The thing is i have to fit spacers on the rear wheels to clear the springs. Would this affect the wheel alignment process as the wheels at the back will be sticking out further than the front?