waynos

planning on having a suspension overhall next month providing i can get strip my fk coilies in time. I notice my car seems to go through top mounts quite quickly. Now i was wondering if i can get uprated poly top mounts? has anyone tried this? Failing that ive heard that vr6 top mounts last longer but the bearings have to be bought seperate from the mount itself. Are these a straight swap for g60 mounts?

:( really dont want to do that.they look in ok condition other than the locking rings. but i just cant get at them

got some fk coilovers and they are already pi$$ing me off and i havent even got them on the car yet! some of the collars are cracked and some are just siezed on. i can grind them off if need be but i cant get the cap that holds the damper in to undo.its got two holes in the top that you could put a tool in to unwind them. i tried a grinder spanner which was a perfect fit but it wouldnt budge. ive even cut the tiniest groove in the cap so i can get some water pump pliers around it but it still isnt budging!!! any ideas?

update on the dash, made two brackets for ach side that link up to the original corrado dash mounts. (they shall be tidied up once everything fits ok) I have also made three brackets that go along the windscreen edge of the dash onto the bodywork to stop the dash flexing. ended up cutting another inch off the back as it was still sitting to far forward - when the gear lever was in 1st your knuckles would hit the heater control panel.All sorted now and here is the new pioneer head unit i got p88rsii baby! sounds so nice

its not like the plumbing stuff you mentioned. its like a flexible plastic sleeve.you see it in some of the newer cars. have a look on ebay, im sure they do it

you need to stretch it and wrap it by over lapping it onto itself , it will stick to itself.be patient and it will look factory.the other option is to use convoluted tubing

my mate had a mk3 polo with an alpine stereo that did this.we used thicker cable (like the stuff you would run to an amp) for the earth and power and the problem dissapeared

right ive managed to source a glove box, radio /heater cage and under steering wheel cowling for the dash.no pics as yet. I did a test fit of the top half in my other rado. heres how the dash sat without any chopping - looks good however it sits too far forward and fouls up against the indicator stalks, was pretty suprised that curve around the windscreen part is of the dash is almost identical to the corrado close up of where it hits the indicator stalks crap pic of the fit up by the windscreen another random shot heres the underside. Ive cut back to the black line to allow the dash to sit further back ( didnt cut through the vinyl so i can fold it back round and glue it to keep a factory finish) also got hold of a couple more vents as two were broken and wouldnt sit firmly in the dash. Also got three more rings to go in the switch holes as three were missing.

i had the same thing happen on my old mk1 golf, except it happened whilst driving! heard a loud bang then the car sounded like a tractor. pooped the bonnet to find half a spark plug attached to a lead and the rest in the engine. Used a stud extractor to get it out

ive managed to get hold of a tt dash ( see members thread) i have a mk4 golf headlight switch to go in (same as the tt) but can anyone help me connect it up to the corrado headlight wiring? dont really want to have to use rado switch gear in the tt dash.any ideas would be mucho appreciated :D

probably wont be very easy to do haha, but im confident i can get it in there! ordering the rest of the dash tomorrow so hopefully it wont be long before i can start test fitting it

yea ive got the heatshield, found that yesterday.need to dig out the hoses. ive found a few of them just need to find the rest

not mch of an update, managed to pick up the top half of a tt dash.im in no rush to get this in as i need to source a glove box and panel that goes above your feet.ill be doing a custom centre console as im not feeling the tt one. The dash i got unfortunatly had the air bag go off which tore a section out. i was thinking about recovering it myself but there are quite a few curves to get around. Then i thought about filling the hole and getting it flocked but i thought the finish would be poop around the repair. heres what i ended up doing.... heres the dash as i got it i cut the whole part out where the airbag blew and took some of the foam away from the edges as the material was lifting there i then glued the material down at the edges so that it wouldnt sit proud. The part i cut out was fibreglassed back in flush also Made a panel to cover up the hole out of fibreglass then gave that a quick skim of filler to make it smooth trimmed it in some leftover vinyl i had from doing my door pods glued this piece to the dash over the hole and let it dry over night wont be to everyones taste but it was a hell of a lot cheaper than paying someone to retrim it!

nice car, especially liking the wheels (i got the same ones!) what profile tyre are you running? i need a little bit more stretch so they dont catch arches once ive dropped it down a bit

oh my! how much did the engine cost you? must have been hard to track on of those down? Im jealous

what finish is the wheel under the laquer? painted, diamond cut, polished? if its painted you wont get a way with paint stripper as it will probably eat its way through the paint too.polished or diamond cut you could probably get away with it but make sure they are properly rinsed off afterwards. As for re applying the laquer you can but it in a spray can. It will adhere well to paint but not so good on a polished surface so the very first chip you get will allow moisture to get under the laquer leading to corrosion. Hope this helps. ( i have a thread i made ages ago where i relaquered the lips on my wheels so do a search and you might find it)

its a long shot but to rule out the charger you could always remove it and fit a shorter drive belt.if the noise is gone it will be the charger if not you will have to start looking elsewhere.cant remember how short the belt needs to be though

g60 shift tower fits an o2j ive done it on mine and i can get all gears no problem. Ive got two throttle bodys one is from an agu engine and it hit my bonnet (denting it outwards) A vr6 bonnet should clear it though

aust - i got the material off ebay, its not very stretchy but once heated its a bit easier to form. v33dub - yea its still on the spax (-40mm) want to go lower , maybe 60mm. was on coilovers but i couldnt bear the ride on my way to work

random but the back bumper on that volvo looks like a corrado front bumper

ii think they could but it would be really difficult as it seems like they are glued together

update :) the car is running well, need a new dump valve as the one ive got is too weak - leaking boost. The exhaust rattles slightly when the car is first started.Need a new throttle body also. Im loving it though! I Tinted my front lights - heres a few pics from that wanted to add a border to hide the glue that holds the lens together (same as ive done on the rear lights) un masked now for some tint film front fog and indicator (headlights have been done too but havent got any pics of that few pics a mate took in my work car park

you can get agu engines with a cable throttle, i know a few people that have it - failing that there are a rew passats that have the cable throttle, im using one myself. gearbox you can use o2a from a g60 which seems quite suited to the engine. ive used an o2j (enj) didnt need to change the flanges as the driveshafts bolted right up. I went for a qpeng diy ecu kit which was quite staight forward to use. Have a butchers at www.qpeng.com for more info

this may help mate, had similar problems http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... =1&t=73566

lil update, whacked a new cap on and my coolant stays in the system rather than on my clean bay! also got a new fan that actually works too.happy days