Yandards

Lucky you caught that. In terms of no cat or cat lambda probes. The no cat lambda probes have a different system of heating the probe to ensure it gets up to operating temperature quickly - it uses a timer relay system. The CAT ones also have a heater but not on a really as the CAT pipe builds heat faster than no CAT. As for which to fit, the reason they fitted heaters to lambda probes was to increase operational life (about 30k non-heated and 75k heated) so it wont make any difference to the way the lambda value feeds into the ECU.

Right to clarify this a little more. You need to buy a PG crank bolt and do the following: The UK VW workshop manual for the G60 states, 90Nm + 1/4 turn further. The following notes apply: Counter hold with tool 3099 to loose and tighten (pictured). Oil threads and shoulder. The quarter turn can be done in several stages. The really really really important bit in that note section is the oil threads and shoulder of bolt - a wet torque at 90Nm plus a quarter will provide a lot more force than a dry torque at 90Nm plus a quarter, without trying to remember lots of maths I have forgotten but being lazy and doing a quick web search a wet torque will give at least 50% more torque than a dry torque. The 1/4 turn element also suggests that this is a stretch bolt, whilst the manual does not say replace it each time, I would recommend that you do for best practice - especially given the cost of a crank bolt vs an engine rebuild..

Jim do your research :nono: :) The spoiler assembly is available on there in component form, ie motor, drive shafts, gearbox and spoiler.

I always enjoyed working on other peoples more than my own too, my own always manages to wind me up now and then! Good to hear it was a simple fix, I still think the way the clocks get 12v switched live is bloody wierd though.

Worse :) :cuckoo: :grin: :clap: :wave:

Pretty much, the G60 head is an 8v head after all. You will need to swap the valves over though as the G60 runs at silly temps compared to a NA 8v.

Ahem Kev I think you mean £1 per gallon not litre mate :)

Right, so are you ignoring the VAT element then? :) Fuel duty went up as of the 1st of January this year (0.76p in duty, 2.5% in VAT) and regardless of where the cost increase comes from, duty, VAT or $/barrel, then if fuel prices rise it adds to inflation due to increased costs to move goods. The duty element of the fuel price adds to inflation as companies and individuals still have to move goods and people, if it costs 0.76p more per litre then the cost of that increase has to be felt somewhere in the supply chain, haulage firms charge more to supermarkets etc which in turn is passed onto the consumer - ultimately increasing the cost of day to day necessities and increasing inflation figures.

Very little, ie nothing really. The G60 uses sodium filled exhaust valves but thats about it.

Yes it does. It has all sorts of clever electronics on it to stop you for from over doing it and it spitting you out as the end result. Mostly it comes down to a pre-set option like wet, dry or track but IIRC the gyros etc control the power delivery depending on grip, throttle request and angle of the bike. The options also tweak the throttle range of movement, wet will only give you a smaller amount of power over a big twist of the throttle and the track gives you all of it for not alot of twist.

No worries Kev, for some wierd reason the later the wiring diagrams get the less information they have on them - I had to go back a couple of years for a full pin out of the clock plug (T28) so the diagram you have is a little less than complete (doesn't even show the ignition switch properly!). I have the other ones scanned in so if you cant find it I can email those over too. I also have the alarm installtion manual for a 998 VAG 038 type alarm, thats the big box with the rubber boot on the end, interstingly the ultrasonic sensors should be fitted into the sunroof control panel - never seen a car with them in that position!!

It does for brush painting but for spraying you need to thin it using Hammerite thinner/brush cleaner or a MEK based solvent (which would be very hard to find). The one in the picture is an RPM tuning item, I also have a cut down S2 one (short runner type) and a modified 16v top half inlet with a throttle body attachment point on both sides. So I really need to have a clear out as there is a few quid just in manifolds!

Signed. Frankly the main reason inflation is running high is fuel duty, increased fuel prices means it costs more to move good around, so you pay more to fill up, more for food, clothes etc - vicious circle.

Very little late stuff Jim, mostly a collection of components to make another 16vG60 - including a complete 85k KR block. I think I have some VR6 water hoses that are new though, along with the Gruvenparts crack pipe (new). I do seem to have acquired 4 G60 throttle bodies though - that doesn't include the 2 fitted to the cars either, although I need the one with the throttle potentiometer. Priority is to get the one in the garage back in one piece first before I work through the bits I don't need.

Think he was referring to the plastic coated wrap around circuit track that clips onto and hugs the back of the clusters. Can't picture it but I don't think the corrado ones are quite as exposed. So is there 12v at the cluster connectors? Presumably that is fed from an ignition switched feed from the fuseboard. Didn't realise the alternator was triggered by the clocks, thought the small wire from the alternator just provided a feed to the clocks to show it's charging? I sent Neil all the info on the wiring for the clocks along with some things to check, I think that as the illumination and the clock + mileage is working its the switched live that has gone. The clocks use the 15 rail in the relay box (switched live) - this takes a rather odd route through a shared connection with the heated washer jets (they share the same fuse) that lives in a 2 pin plug near the relay box. If I had to guess then during the investigation into the alarm/immobiliser wiring this has come out so you have no power to the clocks. All the instrument lights etc require the live feed from the clocks to function, as they are just senders etc they don't draw much current. Illumination comes from the main light switch and there is a permanent live to the clock + mileage cluster from the battery - the switched live uses the same earth as the permanent live so that must be ok.

Just to clarify the rear number plate plinth, they are available on vw-classic parts so if they are on there they are not available at main dealers anymore. To get production started they do need a trigger point to run a batch through although you may find they charge a premium compared to the old prices; for instance the outer door seal strips that run along the top of the door cost roughly what they did before they went obsolete, a G60 radiator is now double what it used to cost. For me it would have to be the little black screw cover caps that go in the screws on the doorcards.

That bike that was racing the Atom is what is currently sitting in my garage - the S1000RR 8) ..and you can't ride it as it's your Dads.. Did love the way the damn bike kept popping wheelies everytime he fed the power in, I seem to recall that the bikes gyros etc kick in and stop it going all the way over. Not a bad start, a little less forced than the last series, also good to see a car in normal peoples budget being tested.

Neil, did you check the wiring I emailed you with last night?

A really cheap one that came with compressor, no doubt a more expensive item would give more control but for painting entire components it's ideal. The trick is to make sure you add enough thinners to the pot or it won't spray without lumps. Did my front brake discs (the bits that are not in the swept area obviously) early this year and for Hammerite they came out very nicely indeed with the airbrush. Next on the to paint list is the front calipers, going for an OEM look with some gold and silver mixed together, have to see how they turn out and hopefully they should last a lot longer than the brush finish I applied previously. On a random note sorted my loft out today, I really need to sell some bits that I don't need..

As I was waiting for my new bore honing stones to arrive I decided to crack into sorting out the rocker cover and inlet manifold. Both of these items were shot blasted but its been a few years and they were looking a little too tatty for my taste. So it was out with a pot Aluma blast and the airbrush to clean them up and hopefully this finish will be more resistant to oily marks than bare ally as well as retaining that just sand blasted look - I am pretty chuffed with the results, it looks like blasted ally and not a paint effect which is just what I was after. Temp wise its good up to 300 degrees F or 149 deg C so should be more than suitable for engine bay temps, it also only took about 1 airbrush pot of paint to do 2 coats on each item - way cheaper and more effective than a rattle can. As for the bore front, my honing stones did finally arrive today, reasonably happy with the end result although I managed to snap a no 2 piston ring when I was taking it off to clean up the piston prior to refitting them - oh well I needed to go to VW to order some bits anyway. Will get the other pistons back in tomorrow or Monday post clean up and it will hopefully be at a compression testing phase by the end of the week.

You have PM..

What model year is it Neil??

Good to see it's getting sorted quickly Neil. Lucky Luton have one on the shelf.

Nope not yet, another one of the obsolete but not rumours.

Cars are early or late interior trim with a centre console to match. If you have a late interior your heater controls will be rotaary dials, early they will be sliders. Late centre consoles for RHD are no longer available new from the dealers and good secondhand ones are hard to come by unfortunately.