Yandards

There were 7 left in the UK as of the Friday of the classic car show.

Yes this is almost correct. Despite the fact that we assume the air flow in the inlet manifold etc is linear/constant it is not, even the charger pressure is in a series of pumped 'waves' we just see a solid reading on a gauge because the air is being pumped very quickly and the gauge lags. So, much the same as an exhaust system (in which the correct length and bore make a huge difference 1) then the length of hose for the ECU MAP sensor has to be exactly 1 metre to ensure the piezo electric sensor is fed a smooth linear read of the inlet airflow pressure to prevent it from spiking up and down and messing the fuelling up. and that's the reason for a 1 metre long hose, not due to the curvature of the Earth or other such piffle :)

Err, surely not? I think finding and then importing one will be much more of a hassle. Henny has one. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31059&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15 Yeah but he marked all those holes himself, got a machine shop to drill the spoiler on a pillar drill and then fitted all the LEDs - no small job. If you get the holes in the wrong place or angle when using LEDs it will look terrible as they won't all have the same light intensity.

The SNS chip will should give you decent off the shelf performance for the stage 4 charger and the 68mm pulley but for the princely sum of about £200 DG Autotech will provide a custom map to suit your car. I have said it before and I will say it again, the variances in G60s due to the build process coupled with the age of the engine mean that it is increasingly likely that the 'off the shelf' chips will not work as well as they once did. A custom map will mean you get the best from your G throught the rev range, I know my mods on mine are not the norm (chargecooler, BBM boost pipework) but I was amazed at the difference between the before and after feeling when driving the car. The AFR output is now on the money for best acceleration on WOT (wide open throttle) and is very even, unlike the pre-MAP figures which are up and done like a yo-yo. So simply put my recommendation would be a custom chip and to get up to DG Autotech for it (about 3 hours from Yeovil).

Is the problem only there during the normal running phase or it is apparent through the cold start and warm up phase? (ECU goes onto Lambda adaption at 70 deg C coolant temp) I guess the car has been parked up for a while and not started given the way your friend got the car? I also assume that the car behaves at normal idles? (800 rpm plus or minus 50 rpm) If that is the case it sounds like there is not enough fuel getting to the injector rail at fast idle, this makes sense if the car has been parked up for a while as it is possible the fuel filter has become gunked up. So next course of action is a fuel pressure test if you have the kit, you should be getting 2.5b at idle on the rail (measure at point where after fan run on pump sensor connects) then remove the vacuum hose line that goes onto the inlet manifold from the FPR, pressure should now be around 3b. If that is no good I would change the fuel filter and then finally look at the fuel pump itself, the seals on the pumps have been known to perrish over time preventing the pump from operating correctly - you can replace the seals if the rest of the pump is ok. As for why it is ok with the BTS unplugged, in timing mode all the adaption is removed, so adjustments for coolant temp and CO become default values, this should lead to an increase in injector duration which despite the fuel pressure being low would give you enough fuel to run. This is all a bit of guesswork without looking at the car and I can also recommend replacing the ECU vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the ECU, this should be exactly 1 metre in length and needs to be the correct VW specified hose to ensure the MAP sensor in the ECU gets good data.

Yeah that's right. As for your idle issue, is the car stock or modified? Is the problem a result of a recent mod or was it ok before and just suddenly started mis-behaving?

Just the way it is really. Although you can now get a new G60 radiator from classic VW parts (VW's in house classic parts firm) but be prepared to fork over 380 Euros for one..

Looking good John, hadn't realised you had run down the carbon fibre route so heavily! How are you finding the new ratios?

I count three...

Kidderminster so the middle of England really. Website is http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/

Adjusting the ISV screw will move the boost return point around the rev range, it will also nerf your idle. I really can't recommend the custom chip enough, an off the shelf SNS item will help but it won't be as good or as safe as a custom item. DG bolt another knock sensor onto the existing one and Dave also uses a set of head phones as part of the tunning process to get the maximum from the engine. Well worth doing and definitely a day trip for you in Hampshire.

Pressure switch runs to 2 bar not 1 bar. It's the map tables within the ECU that's wrong. When the full throttle switch on a G60 is open (ie part throttle or idle) the ECU runs on 'closed loop' this means that the lambda is the sensor in charge and adjusts the fuelling to maintain an ideal AFR (air fuel ratio) this is why at part throttle the car feels quicker than WOT (wide open throttle) as the lambda is sorting out the fuelling in the ECU. When you hit the full throttle switch the car switches over to open loop and relies on input from the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor within the ECU and the map settings within the ECU to sort the fuelling, these are corrected for coolant temp, air temp and CO levels but the amount of variation is small compared to the MAP and ECU map setting. What you really need is a custom chip doing for your setup, an off the shelf item will work ok but for best performance you really need a bespoke chip for your car. The reason is that unlike the VR both the G60 and the valvers had looser build tolerances at the factory so one engine can make 150 bhp whilst another manages 170 bhp, so to get the most from yours you need to get it adjusted for your car. I can highly recommend DG Autotech for a custom G60 having just had one, my own G60 is massively improved and now pulls like a train, should set you back no more than £200 in total. Finally the reason why stock G60s dont make any power after 5800 rpm is that the ISV opens from around 5300 rpm up to 5800 rpm dumping boost back to return. It does this to reduce the shock loading on the engine on the approach to ECUs rev limit of 6200 rpm, this protects the charger above all else in the engine so it is a good thing.

I know Schteve has..

Yep I can tell you exactly what this is. Head gasket is not sealing correctly. The hot cylinder gases are getting into the coolant system causing it to overheat massively resulting in the coolant boiling over. The longer rev drop is due to the lack of compression, ie drag, on the cylinders on over-run. Unfortunately it's head back off time, a quick compression test should highlight the nerfed cylinder although it may not be obvious from this check.

:luvlove: Shame about the head Yan, will you fit it when rectified, or leave her as she is? No point in having it not to fit it, I will be getting touch with the company when I get back home as I need to get some decent measurements. I was hoping for 68mm pulley levels of power on a standard pulley with that head fitted, especially given my charge cooler and boost pipework being nice and free flowing but it's going to be a classic case of wait and see now.

I dont like 'nando but if he takes the championship by 7 points it would be really wrong. Grats to Red Bull, but I do wish they would stop bulling about their age, it's all too easy to forget they were not a fresh startup and bought into a solid mid field team with Jaguar racing (formally Stewart).

Time for an update me thinks. I have been done in the flat country on a course for the last 5 weeks so thought it would be a good opportunity to do some work on the nugget that I had been planning and abuse Supercharged's accomodation and facilities. So a little over a week ago I set about swapping the existing original head for a shinny new ported item along with some reconditioned injectors, a shot blasted and then dip cleaned inlet manifold, a painted exhaust manifold, a new injector loom and a 3.5b FPR. To cut a long story short the new head is not quite right, I am in the process of speaking to the company concerned so don't want to say any more on that until it's resolved one way or another. So after removing the old head, fitting the new one, removing the new one and then cleaning up and refitting the old one it was a long weekend. Post rebuild we did a quick time up by could not do the CO setting as I didn't have my meter with me. Many thanks to Steve for the pair of hands and Jim for the stealth bumming of Steve (see photo) over that weekend. I had originally planned a trip to the DG facility post head fit to get one of their G60 maps as I figured with all the mods on the car I was on the limits of the original mapping. So despite the original head being fitted and the fact that the car was running badly (cutting out at junctions, overfuelling etc) I confirmed with DG that I was still coming over. On arriving on Friday Dave soon discovered that I had cross-connected the MFA and MAP airlines on the back of the throttle body which wasn't helping the poor running. We soon had the mapping gear on the car and a quick test run early on Friday evening had me smiling. Saturday was into the mapping proper and within an hour of on the road stuff including a trip for some super unleaded it was all done and dusted, just an EEPROM to flash and the ECU to refit. So the killer question is what's it like now? Without any hesitation the car is now driving better than it has (in terms of engine performance and behaviour) than it has at point since I have owned it, no more digilag, a nice pull from low down all the way to the new redline of 6800rpm (standard pulley) with the ISV doing it's boost return bleed from 6200 rpm upwards. I can without hesitation recommend this for any G60 owner, it is so much more drivable and thanks to the variations in G60 build (some engines make more power than others) it really needs custom tweaks to get the fuelling right under acceleration. As for power output I don't know if its any quicker or not without a rolling road before or after, my bum dyno says faster but the car is so much more responsive and drivable at all throttle positions and frankly that's what it's all about for me. Given the shear range of mods and tweaks you can do to a G60 a custom map is a must to get the most from it. Dave showed me the acceleration AFR logging from the wideband before and after, it's now a nice almost flat line at WOT instead of jumping up and down all over the place, only shame is I know it would have been better with head. Please find some random photos from the head weekend and a couple from DG yesterday.

Nice, I guess they didnt change the colour so as to prevent them having to change their promotional Stig stuff they sell.

Best bet for tools is to buy a socket set etc from Halfords that comes in a vacuum formed box or tray. That way the tools you use most (socekts and screwdrivers) are already organised in a box and it's easy to see if something is missing. It does take longer to do a job properly, like Dan says, replacing all the fasteners as a matter of course really makes life a lot more simple, I always change my fasteners for new ones unless it's a job I have done recently. Although my recent head swapping farce I did reuse some bolts etc that were only fitted 3 years and less than 15k ago and some of those don't look so great now. Things like getting aluminium parts shotblasted and then getting some paint on them are well worth doing but it really eats up the time.

One thing for sure it's a safety beverage, which must be why Jim loves it :camp:

Gentleman Jack..? Wierd name.

I was thinking about getting the insides of all the trim plastics done to keep the noise down a bit, it should reduce the squeaks and rattles too.

As this appears to be resolved with an offer for an address I am going to lock this up. Many thanks :)

Ditto, think i may have to pop open the lid for the in tank pump and take a look at the arm. It's likely to be that you have a mistmatch in the sender to the gauge. They stopped making the senders for the 12 gallon tanks ages ago and even fitting a matched 15 gallon tank sender and gauge means the gauge drops down very quickly. Not much you can do about it unfortunately unless you fit the 15 gallon gauge face, it will mean it reads more accurately.

Don't bother. It stops the charger being lubricated by crankcase oil and blow off valves induce shock loading into the charger system which is likely to nurf your charger.