Yandards

Yes

Yarp, it'll be sold now too :)

Whoops.. ..all the electrics work and the sunroof both tilts and slides which is nice, no rust I could spot. Needs a new radiator, PAS pipe and front brake line flexis to make it ok mechanically - drivers seat has seen better days but apart from that its a solid car.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]83186[/ATTACH] Crikey that is cheap. Needs a bit of work (bonnet is lumpy) but otherwise looks pretty solid. Humn..

True, I have the chemicals to do clear just not tried it yet. It was more a case of 'they used to yellow passivate them so why not now?' type query.

Limited production run ensures the residuals are good, the same will be said for the Scirocco R as they are only importing 500 a year IIRC to the UK.

Part of the prep process for dip galvanising will involve cleaning and degreasing, this can and should incorporate a corrosion removal process. I currently have an old siezed rear caliper in my roof undergoing electrolitic cleaning (removal of rust and gunge via electrolosis) I have some before and during pictures so just waiting on the after. If it all goes well I might be tempted to start a caliper refurb service, as I also have a electro plating kit as well!

Seen bits on clubgti now and then of this build, truly epic though. Love the fact that despite the exhaust being in the same place between LHD and RHD models we don't get a heat sheild for the PAS system that VW thought was essential on LHD cars - humn :) Kev the reason for 2 pumps is redundancy during rallying, the guy is building or rebuilding a VWM spec rally car as close to original as he can, hence the pair of pumps.

Nothing complicated, just a fish tank filter and air pump for the tank agitator, same again for the tank heater (approx 24 degrees is optimal for zinc plating) and I have 4 zinc electrodes wired in series onto the variable current controller. It looks really very pikey indeed but I am happy with the results so far. Electrocleaning kit arrived yesterday so I am going to give it a trial run on my front brake disc splash guards to see how it goes.

Interesting on the front calipers, are they still heavy as I am trying to work out what coating they have applied to them - it looks like electro-plated zinc but without the yellow passivate they used to use (gave the calipers a gold colour). As for the front end, I would recommend dip galvanised for the rad support panel over blasting, it's a much better process and will mean you rad support panel will last ages, make sure you tell them you want to paint over the top of it mind.

Welcome, looks good and glad you are enjoying the car.

Engine tweaks for about 225bhp IIRC, a different grille and some really unusual wheels..

Yeah but then I have 4 electrodes and a tank agitator.

Depends on the process, electroplate is thinner and better for bolts, calipers etc as they don't get too much gunk on them. For the best protection over time dip galv is better as it goes on much thicker, slap some paint over the top of the dip galv or electroplate and it was last even longer as this prevents the zinc coating (the galvanised bit) from gradually being eaten away (which it will do when exposed to air). Be worth painting the new bit anyway as it will only help.

You missed out oozing and dripping..

Worst thing about the Scirocco R is that as it's a VW coupe you don't get the 4 wheel drive fitted, which comes on the Seat and Skoda R models. Ironically the limited Golf would have been the one to buy, they still hold bloody good residual values compared to a Corrado but as they only made 70 odd that's not really suprising; still the most powerful engine VW ever made until the R32 some 16 years later..

You can't powdercoat after dip galvanising without some serious process work in between to remove the galvansing salts so the powdercoating will adheed. There is a company near me called Highland Galvanisers that do a dip galv and then powdercoat finish called colour galv, my tank straps are in there now for just that job. As for what's better, galv definitely, damage to the galvanic coating will only result in light surface corrosion, powder coated items will just hold the moisture and crud until it's too late. You can paint over galv easily enough though so that's the cheapest solution. The other advantage with dip galv is that the prep process should remove all exisiting corrosion; powder coating won't do that and unless the item has been blasted very well it soon starts deteriorating. Just been playing with my electroplating kit the last few days, results are pretty good, so I am going to do my front brake calipers in there and see how it goes, should be able to get a nice thin coating of zinc on them and then dip them into the yellow passivate for that gold finish they come in when new.

Hence the reason they didn't sell many. The corrado is not the most expensive VW of the era, that goes to the Passat highline(IIRC) at some 22k starting price. Even an entry level valver with keep fit windows was 18k on the road back in '89. Add in some options like electric windows and some recarro seats and you are up to 20k quickly. You can also see why so many people went for the leather option, at £800 on a car that cost 20k it's not a huge amount more to spend.

My wife spotted a nugget in Inverness twice yesteday (on way in and on way home) G plate 16v so I am guessing its Chubby..

The Blue temp sensor (BTS) provides the ECU with the operating temperature of the engine, it adds extra fuel on start-up to compensate for the cold engine and leans out the fuelling as the engine warms up. It also provides the trigger for when the ECU starts to use the lambda probe for adjusting the fuelling. It allows the ECU to set the position of the idle stabiliser valve during start up enabling a smoother idle when cold, acceleration enrichment and finally timing advance. If it is broken the ECU assumes a value of > 60 degrees C coolant temperature but you will not get any timing advance, acceleration enrichment or a refined idle during warm-up. The black sensor provides the coolant temp gauge with a signal for temperature so I would try a new one of those before anything else.

Yep 192 819 415C should be around £35 inc VAT. It does need heating up to get it to fit properly as the 'rado one is just a little wider, make sure you get plenty of extra clips to hold it down too. Not got a photo of mine yet, trialed it on the 16vG60, but best bet is to use a fresh stanley blade to cut the plastic to fit where required. If you have a jetex pollen filter it's a very tight fit and the plastic is quite brittle so be careful at that end.

3a2 955 128

I'll have credit for that little find back in early 09, stick a mk 2 Goof scuttle cover on (requires some cutting for the washer fluid tubes and earth strap and some heating up to get it to sit nicely) and you have a very OE looking full scuttle option. Don't buy the ebay item it's more expensive than a new one from VW! Should be around £8 inc VAT for one. The brake cooling duct 'ears' are also less than £5 a piece from the stealers too. Other plastic bits you can also fit are the wishbone leading edge stone deflectors from the '93 to '96 Passat too, the only fit the 4 cylinder cars but again help to keep the amount of crud getting flicked around the by the driveshafts down. Still trying to find a cheap way of fitting a complete undertray but that looks like a scrappy job only.

Not another red one :) I would go for a heater scuttle seal replacement as well as the sunroof issue - be a shame to get it all dried out and get another puddle in the footwell.

Cuckoo..