Yandards

I always spin the disc and do the bearing nut up until the disc just stops spinning, then back off the whole lot and do it as per the rubbish book instructions. We used to fit Herc mainwheels the same way (stub axle and tapered roller bearings) do them up really tight then back off and re-torque. The reason is that the stub axles are tapered and you need to ensure that the inner bearing is sat as far onto the taper as it can go, as long as you can still spin the disc you are not going to nerf the bearing and it's unloaded anyway; the main reason for the back off is to ensure free running and prevent execessive heat build up anyway. Looking at the state of the roads and given the way the bearings fit the axle it's not suprising if they are all a little bent.

Likewise I bought one when my old Halfords jack finally gave out. It was well worth it and I can now easily jack the car up and fit the standard Halfords axle stands on their highest setting with plenty of lift left on the jack.

They were selling them on fleabay for about £135 a few years ago when I bought it. You should be changing brake fluid every 2 years and for a non-ABS car it's 500ml per corner and ABD is 600ml per corner IIRC. It does make the job nice and easy and I have done a lot of cars with it now. Not only that it's the sort of tool I would expect to last me a lifetime.

Yeah just ask Supercharged about the chimps that did his...

Exactly Yan, which why I posted on page 2. . Sorry Chris, on a flakey wireless connection at Marham on a course so the net is not up long enough for me to read the entire thread right now :)

Cheers for that update John, I did get your answerphone message about it (thanks) have you driven it yet?

That's got as much to do with you replacing 15 year plus old suspension with new as it has with lowering it. All lowering does is generally stiffen the car up and reduce body roll therefore imparting all the loading through cornering into the tyres, the lower centre of gravity helps a little but when it does let go you won't get a lot of indication. As for whats faster/better look at F1, Mclarens are stiff as hell and the Red Bulls are very soft, which ones quicker? :)

No that's a hangover from the not getting shot at school of thinking. The reason you should stay in your car (in the UK mainland too) is that it makes it easier for the Police to control you if you kick off. As for the OP, I appreciate you may feel victimised for being pulled 25 times in a few years when you consider that you have done nothing wrong. However, the Police can stop and search anyone they have reasonable suspicion of commiting an offence and something that you are doing when driving is giving them reasonable suspicion - even if you think you are doing nothing wrong. As for there is no law how low a car can be, if you are scrubbing your tyres on the arches then that's illegal..

You can insist it is repaired as there is some legal precedent about loss or something so I gather. Just dig your heels in mate and you will eventually get where you want to be.

and locked.. :)

Jim the wider seat for the American market was for the Scirocco not the Corrado. Schwebe is a really interesting guy and loves talking about all the cars he was involved with from when he started at Karmann back in the 50s through to his last car the C. He does seem to have more love for the Corrado than anything else, even at a rocco meet a few years ago when he was talking about all of his work he spent some time on the rocco but ages on the Corrado.

That actually looks more like a Corrado then an original Quattro but I love it, shame the front end has to be so high to meet impact regulations but I really hope they build it.

Usually pretty reliable, it does sound like you have a boost leak to me somewhere in the system.

The seller is required through law to fill in the new owners details and send it onto the DVLA, as you agreed not to do this then you are really going to struggle to get the DVLA to look into the scraping properly. As for who is responsible its' your mate brother who will have to pay the fine as he didn't fill in the transfer slip and post it on. But it would be harsh of you to not pay half given the circumstances.

Nope. The later 95 cables are really only for the last 5000 or so Corrados and most of those were never brought into the UK for sale. I suspect that this is another case of dealers not being bothered to check properly, the other snag is that the original cable part number will not have the suffix 'A' on it and checking on ETKA with a part number search does not provide you with the revised item. Seriously if anyone trys to order the part number(536 721 555 A) I provided I would expect you to be able to buy one. I have lost count of the amount of times someone has posted on here saying something is obsolete only to order one a week later at the dealers. A lot of main dealers really can't be bothered to do a little digging and it's far easier to say something is obsolete rather than do a little work.

You can still buy a full selection of knobs from the dealers, you can even specify leather trim or plastic knobs....

Try ordering a 536 721 555 A, that will fit ok.

Crazy Dave knows it pretty well given that is what he uses to run his turboed VR.

Yeah easy enough to do do although you will need an allen key with a good length on it.

My usual car mate is away right now so I got the wife to help out instead! It's off all off now but need to get a bore gauge from work to check the cylinders before I start the honing process. Can't see the point in trying to hone it if I need oversize pistons and if that is the case then I will be swapping the parts over to the other block.

Because it's quicker than taking them off, you just need another pair of hands to help out with the removal :) It was time to call it a day when I was ready for the head off so it all worked out well really.

No the control unit for the after fan run-on is a relay system, it's in the car down on the relay board but is one of the ones above.

Not with the inlet and exhaust manifolds connected and the ARP studs make it a little harder too :) Judith, there wasn't another pair of hands until later last night so I reached a good stopping point. Jim, I know mate, looking at some other folks numbers I can't wait really, 155lb ft of torque from 2000 rpm to 6000 rpm peaking at around 185lb ft, that's above stock VR6 levels and on other 16vG60s that have the factory manifold fitted.

Right, Started stripping it down tonight for a couple of hours, fluids drained, all the various coolant pipes, sensors, fuel lines, wiring, oil lines etc disconnected. It's all ready for the head to be removed but I need another pair of hands to help lifting it off. Plan is to hone the bores in situ, slap enough of it back together to be oil tight to enable compression testing to be carried out and if it's all good then I can strip it back down and replace the bearings. I can't see the point in doing the bearings if I can't get the compression up and if I can't then the engine that originally came out of the car will get stripped down and have all the interals and ancillaries swapped onto it as I know there is nothing wrong with that unit. Want to know one way or the other by the end of the week really, so head off tomorrow night, pistons and rods out and then prep honing, some honing on Wednesday night, rebuild on Thursday and then test by Friday...

You don't get massive reductions, even using the longest cog you can get which is an ASD box 5th. About 500 rpm for a valver gearbox (not bad) but a G60 box only drops by 300 rpm. I have always aspired to have a 6 speed box, stock ratios and a longer motorway friendly 6th would be great.