Yandards

Humn, looks like early LHD centre consoles are on classic parts but no sign of the RHD one, doesnt' look good for new centre console production to us RHD folks..

He doesn't do Corrados though..

Need to get some 'rado love pics up. For more horror look in here :) Highlights are Kev playing with 10 inches on pg 3, a small group in the sun at Stealth on pg 8, some familiar banner pics on pg 13 and a group love in on page 17.

Nice looking machine, keeping them garaged really does make a difference. Ironic that you have had to spend a reasonable amount of effort undoing the previous keepers cock-ups and poorly fitted/advised parts and jobs!

No need to take the dash out to remove this or do the matrix dude! You just need to split the long duct that the blower fan lives in from the central box but it will come out without removing the entire dash assembly, just drivers and passengers lower shelfs and the centre console.

Locked up then as you now have a proper thread.

Yes but with plenty of swearing. Basically you need to remove the large lump that lives behind the centre console, there are nuts in the engine bay to remove and you have to fight a bit to get the long duct off that the blower fan lives in.

I wouldn't bother with induction kits either, the filters are not a good enough quality to filter all the crud out and you end up with dust and oil eating at the inside of the charger whilst its doing 10000rpm..

:worthless:

It's not just the rotary dial heater control panel thats the problem. The air control box with the flaps in is made mostly of plastic and over time the levers and cogs that are on the airbox wear resulting in increased resistance, this manifests itself on later (post facelift) cars by overloading the gear mechanism in the heater controls. You can try fitting a drill bit shank to the the bottom of the selector dial, (although I can't recall the required diameter) this will reinforce on of the weak points on the dial controls. The next option requires more work, the heater box needs to be removed, have all the dead leaves and mud cleaned out of it (that doesn't help the flaps) and then you can replace some of the lever control arms and the felt washers that are used. This will clean up the operation and reduce the loading through the heater control panel.

:oops:

I think the passenger side interior window door card clip would be a good choice, most of the cars with leather have cracked and thats the drivers side on more Corrados than the passenger side.

Jurassic green and grey leather is not a good combo Jim..

Only problem with is the glue in normal insulation tape tends to creap when it gets warm resulting in a very sticky loom, best bet is to use the proper cloth stuff, this looks a likely candidate here

Fecked I assume?

You can request VW classic parts makes some new ones, they do have a lot of Corrado stuff on there now that has been obsolete or dropped for a while. Link here You will loose a few hours of your life using the part number checker though!

It would appear so. Good news Neil, garaging them does make a massive difference to condition when they are all 15 years or older by now, especially the condition of the interior plastics.

Nope that wasn't it. :D The later VRs and in the last year of Corrado production 16 and 8v cars had a higher ride height to allow for progressive rate springs to be used - the intention was to improve handling and ride quality.

Seems like it and I would guess a leather interior too as they tend to crack on the leather clad door cards far quicker than the cloth trim.

Yeah and not one 3 hours away around the central belt either, need to get it finished, then mapped at DG first though - a replacment belt tensioner needs sourcing as part of the rebuild as well. Fla, don't even bother trying to oversize an engine using a honing tool, although if you wanted to replace the piston rings then you can use a honing tool on a VR6 as well as using it to true the cylinders if they are going oval. With a total of 6 hours work yesterday and a set of worn honing stones I removed no more than 0.02mm of material at best. To give you an idea of how much more work that is, the first oversize on a VR is 81.51mm (standard bore is 81.01mm) so you would need to remove a furthur 0.49mm of material using a bore honing tool to achieve that - or 25 sets of honing stones and 150 hours of labour!

The why is covered in the wiki article I linked on honing, but it comes down to the compliance of flexibility of the honing tool, this results in an average being applied to the process which gradually removes the ovality of the cylinder bores. It does work having measured the before, during and after when I was doing the honing yesterday; it just takes a long time to achieve! Ultimately I could have just carried out a rough up hone as the bores were well within the required tolerances but I think it's better to try to reset back to a true cylinder to account for furture bore wear and a subsequent ovaling of the cylinder profile. Suffice to say when I go ABF in furture I will get a machine shop to true the bores as it will be a lot quicker and easier.

Tailgate inside trim plastic on the boot panel for the boot lock area. Didn't even to look the part number up :dorky: :D

Spent the day in the garage going nuts with my new honing tool, had to stop as I have run out of sandstone on a couple of the legs so need some new ones. Got some pictures of the bore gauging process for those that are interested :sleeping: First of all as I mentioned previously the nominal bore size for a 1.8l block (G60 or 16V) is 81.01mm, the best way to set the dial bore gauge up is with a metal ring which is exactly 81.01mm - I don't have one so I set my digital calipers to 81.01mm instead. To ensure that you have movement of the dial gauge both higher and lower you need to set it up so you have a bit of movement already taken up, so as my bore gauge has a '1' unit counter with a range of 0-3 I set that to '1' and then adjusted the scale on the dial to read '0' (the outer ring on the dial gauge moves along you to set 0 etc). With this all set up I can now measure the bore size at various points, the reason you use a dial gauge for this job is that you can find the narrowest point by watching the dial while you tilt the bore gauge; so you tilt the gauge slowly in one direction and the gauge will move towards 0, when it hits the narrowest point of the bore it will tend to hang a little then it will start moving 'up' again. Using this technique you ensure you are measuring accross the shortest distance of the bore. On taking some fresh measurments today 2 and 3 were within 0.02mm with bore bores oval shapped, the oval was widest on the front to back measurement, this is to be expected given the rotation of the crankshaft and the effect it has on the bore wear. 1 and 4 were worse than 2 and 3 coming in at 0.04mm again with the oval shape bore profile on the front to back. I was not worried about this as the workshop manual gives you up to 0.08mm variation in bore readings per cylinder so even my worst ones were only at 50% of the tolerance. Despite this I still wanted to try to get the bores back to being as close to a true circle as I could manage, this is where the bore honing tool comes into play - (wiki article on why honing produces a 'true' cylinder here) the tool will bring my back closer to a true (perfectly round) cylinder. The other function of honing is to ensure that you get good compression and the piston rings bed into the cylinder walls well giving good compression; my original problem. Next up was to actually do some honing, engine oil was used as a lubricant, the bores were wiped over with oil prior to introducing the honing tool. Then it was simply a case of maintaining low RPM on the drill and continually moving the honing tool up and down the bores, as you can see from the photos of before and after there is a much rougher looking surface. Unfortunately I ran out of material on the honing tool before I finished; although 2 and 3 are now within 0.01mm variation along the height of the bore with it back to being a true circle again. 1 and 4 will need more work as soon as I get some more honing stones. The light marks in the photos of after are where the dial bore gauge has been used, I will give them a final hone prior to rebuild.

Sweet, been waiting to see how this is coming along for ages..

Given the owner states 'I HAVE BEEN IN VW SEEN SINCE 2000' this car is a clear example of scene tax. This will probably translate into it's had some coilovers and been slammed on some illegally stretched tyres but with nothing else replaced on the suspension resulting in a car with terrible ride and dangerous handling. But it will look mint init...