Yandards

Belt chirp is more likely to be from the G60 idler pulleys not the cambelt. As the idler pulleys have been disturbed during the cambelt job then it has probably been enough to mess one of those up and as it does it cold not warm this is an early indication of bearing failure. It is also worth looking at the tensioner/damper for the G60 drive belt, they wear out and if you have not had a new one it would be worth fitting a replacement item. As for costs, the tensioner/damper is about £100 inc VAT and the idlers are around £15 inc VAT each (you need 2) and a belt is around £15. Should take a good garage no more than a couple of hours to change it all over. Have a look in my G60 thread (link in sig) for more info on replacing the damper and and idlers as I did this job a few years ago and there are plenty of pics in there.

WPIMK is roughly translated as 'who urinated in my kettle?' Banner pics need to be wide and obviously recognisable as a car. Unfortunately the link I have to the old banner generator page and the size requirements has gone since the software cx.

Your settings, yeah 6 years ago (although in August this year..) Just a typo for WPIMK.. :)

Hallo and welcome :)

Crikey, its been 6 years since that photo was taken! The front 2 cars are not owned by the same folk anymore, I still have mine and so does BB (WPMIK?).

Yes he was but we are only talking about a 4 tonner + 6 feet or so and if I was flying I know I would be aiming to miss the 4 tonner.. I do remember watching a Herc crew pull bits of tree from the underside of the aircraft after one sortie, but that was quite a long time ago..

Nice selection, the best ones are never filmed though :) Number 1 is good as the jet is just on the verge of going supersonic, in fact some of it (the back end behind the vapour cloud) is supersonic. The guy in number 3 is a bit daft, I always remember the army guy who was decapitated by a Hercules on a low pass..

I think this has run its course, locked up :)

The torque loading element is controlled by spring pressure, hence if you leave the spring compressed it won't work as well. They are only ever a rough guide at best, unless you have them calibrated and checked for accuracy ever year I wouldn't trust them completely - way better than no torque wrench at all mind ! :)

I couldn't remember which way round the cut out is and couldn't be bothered to go and check :) Anyway as you already said, TT/R32 ones are just better. Andy and 3Corsa have you had some 4 wheel alignment action done post suspension rebuild? If not it will drive like poo, you need a proper specialist to do it, they need to able to adjust camber as well as toe-in and out or it won't be worth the money or effort. I've had it done a few times on various cars and the difference is huge post alignment.

Its more of an issue for you VR boys as you have handed wishbones on the plus running gear making them about 25% more expensive than the 4 cyinder folks. Any dealer supplied wishbone (4 or 6 cylinder) should come with the front and rear bushes already fitted, I know my ones did when I ordered them ages ago and ETKA shows the bushes as a sub assembly of the wishbone part number. As for the R32 thing, standard rear wishbone bushes are not solid, this is to give a more compliant ride but under hard cornering the bush moves too much affecting the tyre contact patch due to a change in camber. By fitting the R32 rear bush, which is a solid item, you stop the camber change under hard cornering resulting in more predictable cornering behaviour. However, don't fit polybushes, they don't work and will wear the wishbone out as they are too stiff, you do need some movement on the bush.

Hello, It would help if you posted up where about in Scotland you are, but guessing from the Star Performance I think that's Aberdeen way IIRC. As for Corrado specialists, there are very few in the UK let alone Scotland, anyone who deals with MK 2 and 3 Golfs should be able to do most of the spannering no problem as they share common parts.

You get what you pay for in terms of tools and I would recommend the Halfords ones, my only complaint about them is the quality of the rachet mechanism is not brilliant but the torque setting kit is by far and away the best way to do it. The reality is that for real torque accuracy you need to set them to the specified level on a torque analyser before use as they drift off over time. Make sure you wind the torque setting all the way down to 0 when you are not using it as leaving it in with 30Nm dialled in will affect the accuracy.

Nice pair ;)

I suspect this driver was just confused with the use of the hard shoulder on other sections of the UK motorway network, not that that makes it acceptable in anyway and I would be concerned that the driver didn't know where they where. However, if you really think someone is driving that badly then make a report to the police, if enough people make a report on a given day/incident then that gives the police a pattern of behaviour for that car/driver. This should eventually lead to an investigation of the car at the very least - where do you think the 'intelligence' often quoted in road wars etc comes from, mostly from reports by members of the public. But, there is just as much chance they will fob you off as do anything about it, if you insist on making a complaint you will have to make a formal statement but it will then have to be actioned at least. Damn should have looked furthur up for posting content.....

Looks tidy, is that a dizzy or coilpack VR (I am going to assume dizzy on a K plate)? The rear light cluster could do with some adjustment, they are supposed to be in a straight line, fairly easy to do and would tidy the back end up no end.

I think its the way the new forum software defaults the posts sort, it's not an easy one to spot otherwise!

The biggest reason for rattles on a Corrado is the dreaded alarm 'fitter'. Most of the upper trim clips are one use only items and the good old alarm chimp won't replace them. My G60 was terrible when I bought it for squeaks and rattles but some self adhesive felt sheets, some replacment clips and a couple of weekends saw all the annoying squeaks eliminated. Frankly for a car that was 17 years old when I bought it I am not suprised the existing felt had worn out. The other factor is your choice of wheels, 17s do not make a nice handling or riding Corrado (in my opinion anyway :)), they are designed for 15" wheels on a max width of 205, you can't expect a brilliant ride and good handling on massive rims with a tiny sidewall - the same can be said for coilovers. As for a C vs more modern stuff, 190bhp used to be a big number, it's far closer to the norm now with many hot hatches putting out a lot more than that it's only to be expected. Yes it's a parts bin raid but a well executed one, they still look good and for something designed in the mid 1980s that's quite an achievement.

It's not suprising given the way they run their F1 operation and the ego of Luca Di Montezemolo is frankly massive. I guess the issue is that Chris Harris, who obviously drives other supercar manufacturers products, is of the opinion that it's only Ferrari that behave in this way. By tweaking a car for a specific track then you get an unbalanced picture of the car as a whole when compared to a rivals product - this is right up there with claimed bhp outputs. Given the level of electronic adjustment on something like an Audi TT is large enough to completely transform the package then the adjustment on the Ferraris is massive. I doubt Ferrari expect to get massive miles out of their press cars and so are more than happy to run the engine harder for a reducded engine life. The real issue is that consumers place faith in magazine articles written by motoring professionals as part of an informed buying process - after all the general population don't drive a wide range of supercars on a regular basis and therefore have no idea how they compare. If that data the journos gather is wrong because Ferrari are providing a 'tailoured suit' package to Lambos etc 'off the shelf suit' just for the press reviews then there is no value in that review.

1. My real name is Yan. 2. I have balanced chromosomal translocation, which makes me a genetic mutant but without exciting super powers :( 3. Everyone on my dads side of the family bar the eldest son (at school in England) were killed in the Indian uprising/revolution of 1857.

Sorry which block are you building up? I guess you are refering to the VR6 conrod stretch bolts, these are part number 021 105 425B (FIG 6-30), the crankshaft bearing cap bolts are part number N 903 658 01 (FIG 2-30). The camshaft caps are not streched items, the camshaft caps do not have any separate bearing shells, unlike the crankshaft. You will not be able to order camshaft caps as they come matched to the cylinder head through line boring. You can change the studs on the cylinder head if you wish but there is not requirement to do so. Unlike the G60 or 16v engined cars the VR6 manual does not give you a single re-use of the conrod stretch bolts.

At least 7.8bhp faster..

2 pairs please, one for each car :)

1st one and 3rd one are defo pea-roasts but good to see them up as a reminder. 3rd one the guy just went in too fast and clipped the kerb, silly burger.

If you do have a dizzy on a VR6 then you need to keep it as the engine management system uses the dizzy to calculate No. 1 TDC. This function is carried out on the coilpack VR's by using an inductive sensor on the camshaft to calculate No.1 TDC, so it is possible to convert them but its not as simple as just swapping the dizzy out for a coilpack. As for the badge colour, all the early cars have a red model badge front and rear, all the late cars (bar the 8v) have a brushed stainless model badge front and rear - this was also when they changed the 'Corrado' script badge from body colour to brushed stainless. This was a VW range change, all the Golfs etc have the same revisions in badges.