Yandards

Only the 5th cog and frankly that's not very daunting at all when you consider it's pretty much on it's own.

Does this make the car twitchy under braking? Yes but only at the back end. It's also worth noting that by lowering the car the rear brake compensator that lives on the rear beam does not work as well as it should, it's not so bad on around a 40mm drop but start slamming and you will get some issues.

You can have the dealers up for that with trading standards, if you ask the question they have to answer it honestly..

You can refit the damper on your own without the tooling but you need to squeeze it hard to overcome the spring and give chance for the oil to move around in the damper, then it's a quick push back onto the stud. As for the waterpump pulley, give it a good dose of penetrating oil to try and free it off before hand.

Not a UK car, numberplate is wrong colour on the front. Looks like they managed to mount the kerb through an overly agressive turn in, unsettled the back end with the bump on the kerb resulting in the oversteer. Track was dry but it had been wet judging by the colour of the mud, just like most accidents really, speed was contributory but driver error being the main factor. I suspect if the grass area had been dry it might have been recoverable but med sludge just made a big old slidey mess.

and when you have fitted them spray a little waxoil over the heads to keep them in good condition.

Charger end or engine end?

You have work email about it :) Down around the w/e of the classic car show and got a head to fit prior to so a map that get's around the digi lag and takes advantage of the head and chargecooling would be ideal.

Nope I've used them on allen headed bolts no problem, some of the hex heads I have had out have been round anyway through rust etc.

Do these remaps include tweaks for mods? i.e. smaller pulleys, head work, 3.5 bar FPRs etc?

Thanks for the advice. I've got a 7mm allen key socket i was going to try and jam in there, if not i'll try a larger torx key. Failing all that I was thinking of using a screw extractor, but heard mixed things about them If you can wait by far the best screw/stud extractors I have ever used are these ones: Irwin screw extractors Not cheap but well worth the money and so far they have not let me down.

Where as you folks from the Isle of Men prefer french bread sticks for the extra chaffing :eek: Alex can you put me down as I can't edit either IV30..

I usually use another allen key to hold the pulley whilst undoing the others, once you have been around once and freed them all off then you can hold the pulley to undo them. You can always leave the car in gear too, as you will be trying to drive the crank by turning the v-belt pulley.

It is the one-way restrictor valve designed to hold brake pressure vacuum in the servo, looks like someone has fitted it to prevent the ISV from doing what I said earlier (bleeding boost back to return as the engine approaches the redline). You can easily take it out though (and I would), original hose is still available from VW too, but I have no idea of price right now as I am front of the wrong PC.

Try re-sizing the images to no more than 1024x768.

Dunno, there should be nothing there on a stock car. Pics would be very helpful in diagnosis too. It could be an ISV restrictor designed to stop the boost from going to boost return via the ISV above 5800 rpm (engine is designed to do that).

If you fit HIDS you need to get a proper reflector and lense for them; if you don't then you will get too much beam spray and blind other road users. Frankly a set of the Max Pooer named Xtreme Philips bulbs make a world of difference as does stripping your headlights down and cleaning the inside of the lense.

I've met some great people from here and some of them are now really good friends, I do love the car (still) though and it's nice to drive something that other people both enjoy and are annoyed by to the saem degree.

Depends how bad a state it's in really, cleaning the inside of the headlight lense will make difference and a set of refurbished reflectors will help too.

But you need to strip the lights down first and just send them the reflectors only, give them a ring to discuss costs etc.

You can get the inside reflective silvering re-coated by this company here. Should be about £70 for the pair of reflectors.

It means that during last winter the car was left outside without enough anti-freeze in the coolant system, it got very cold outside and froze the water in the pipes of the coolant system.

Nice, what was up with the ABF block you removed?

Nice, they are genuine items just the run out batch with the embroided logo on them. There is a company that make embroided mats to order, here. You can even supply your own logo to be made up.

1. Check the fuses. 2. Check the relays are seated ok. 3. The ISV will buzz with the ignition in the run position, you can feel it if you touch it with your hand. 4. If the ISV is not buzzing then either the wiring is dead or the ECU has no power (check by looking for volts at ISV plug with ignition on) 5. With ignition on you should also hear the fuel pump run for a short while then cut out. 6. The engine will run with a broken/non functional ISV - just not very well. 7. If you keep popping fuse 18 then unplug the lambda probe plug, it's on the same fuse as the fuel pump and if the wiring is shorting out it will blow the fuse.