JMC

Seconded for the headlight loom, along with some Phillips +80% bulbs. I like the progressive deliver of the supercharger, for the very reason Junkie doesn't - boring and predictable. I always know what i am going to get and when. Suppose it's all down to what you want really....

Been working on one of the spoiler switches tonight, and thought I would post a couple of pics....

A huge amount depends on the mapping too....

First round I would recommend i) 68mm pulley with SNS chip, ii) Mocal oil cooler and iii) FMIC of some description. ii) should really be done the sme time as i) but iii) can wait until you source the right one (if that makes sense :lol:). After that then think about head, cam, bigger injectors, 4 branch manifold, exhaust, etc etc. Even the 68mm pulley and SNS chip will make a noticable difference over standard. Do things in stages, and see what differences they cause, otherwise it's too easy to make lots of chnags at once and not know what any of them have done.

I'm ready to start on the spoiler switches now guys, and have sent a PM with shipping details. Happy New Year everyone :cheers:

Welcome to the huge area of G60 tuning Rob :D Best start is a 68mm pulley and chip from G-werks. The SNS chips are very good. You'll be more than fine with that on standard injectors. Next thing would be to save for a FMIC. Ideally a Golf G60 one, but if not, whatever you can fit. The standard Corrado G60 IC is pitiful. You should also start looking at a Mocal oil cooler if you're putting extra power through the system. Definately get rid of the carbon canister plumbing - tidies up the bay, and gets rid of many potential leaks. No experience with the BBM pipework or SWG airbox, although to be honest the standard airbox and VW paper filter is sufficient for a mildly tuned car. Boost recric is fine, but noisy, and you need to make sure the charger gets lubed every now and then, plus ideally you want an oil catch tank. I tried it, and then went back to standard. G-werks stage 4 for the charger rebuild (as you're asking for opinions). Big thing to start saving for is a flowed head and cam. On a standard bottom end, with flowed head and cam, and Golf G60 FMIC with standard injectors I made around 212bhp.

That is a huge increase Jezza, and some pretty impressive numbers :D Have you got any got the printouts from the runs? And I presume the rund with the normal and SWG airboxes were with standard paper filters in them?? Oh, and the final thought - were these bonnet up or bonnet down runs?

I have one of those on my G60, from when I had a toothed belt (in the vain attempt to stop it breaking evey 3 minutes). I believe it came from a VR6 Corrado.

Aha, off hand do you know which was which (which code was earlier and which later), as I get the feeling mine has been changed at some point. I presume therefore that you need the right gaskets for the right manifold too then...

There were 2 different G60 inlet manifolds, and I was wondering whether these are completely interchangable, and what the differences are between them?

Try BG Developments mate, that where I got mine from. http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/

Still using the standard sparkplugs, injectors are red tops, and it's a standard fuel pressure regulator.

Good to see you too Leon. I'll put you down on the thread in the suppliers forum for one. Have a good Christmas :D

Glad to be of assistance :D They will make them in custom offsets as well. I had mine made so they sat 5mm further out in the arches, so filling them better without needing spacers.

Worth checking with Compomotive themselves - I bought mine directly from them... And as Billcor says the Toyos can be had pretty cheap from places like Blackcircles.

I have black 5 spoke MO's (16") on my black G60. Look really good with red Porsche callipers behind them :D

Could just be as simple as a broken or detacted lead - you wont know until it's opened up. After you have got into it it is a case of reattaching the lead, or removing the bulb completely and replacing it with another. Not too fiddly if you have some watchmakers screwdrivers (for getting into it), soldering iron, replacement bulbs etc. Replacement switches cost around £10 second hand, so keep an eye open if you want one of those.

I had someone throw a bottle at mine a few years ago as I drove past a bunch of kids. Hit just on the edge of the metalwork with the passenger rear quarter glass. Thankfully all there was, was a tiny dent, and the glass was OK, but it really was loud when it hit. Tough little cars :D

Yep, although if I had the time I would prefer to retrim it properly. Spraying is Ok on the headlining, but not hard wearing. Works fine on the pillars though.

Here you go mate - not the best shot I am afraid, but hopefully you get the idea (it started off as the usual beigy grey colour).

Some vinyls are really stretchy when heated - you could have a word with Audioscape and se what they recommend (they do sell vinyl for trimming. The other option might be cut and stitch, but I can imagine that would be a right pain to get it to look nice. I cheated in the end and just resprayed them. Looks perfectly alright and cost me about £20 to do.

That to me sounds like the bulb within the switch. They should be on completely different circuits to the power for the electric mirrors so I doubt they are related. There is a thread on here about how to fix the bulb or alternatively, I do work on switches and can do that for you. With regards to the mirror you might also want to check the contacts going into the motor on the drivers side then. Alot of the switches/mirrors go like this if they haven't been used for a while.

Just to let you know Simon, I have put you on the list in my thread in the Supplier Section. I'll be starting making them in the New Year, as I am chocka until then, but will let you know when I start doing them :D

Cheers mate - I've put your name down. You have a bit of time to save though - I'm not doing them until Jan.

Great, that was the plan. I tried to make it as simple as possible to install Stefan - some people are more comfortable with soldering irons than others, and I sometimes for get it can be quite daunting to get the wire cutters out.