JMC

OK, probably not the easiest thing to visit G-Werks then.... But even so I would recommend you call Darren there (+44 1903 730006) take him through the issue and get his opinion. He's very, very good at diagnosing G60 problems :notworthy: and should be able to give you a starting point for what to try.

One thing I would recommend - if you are within reasonable driving distance of G-Werks (in Littlehampton) get yourself down there. A few mins with Darren will save you chaning things you don't need to....

Have you tried the 'definitive "what air filter" thread' stickied at the top??

There was a group buy for them on here when they first came out. I have one and I think it is very good. However I hd to extend the holes for the windscreen wipers a bit as it didn't fit perfectly. I think for some people it fit perfectly, others (like me) needed to modifify it slightly. Even with that I still think its a good item. Only slight annoyance is that I have to take my wipers off to ge at the ECU :lol:

Here's mine. I have a Genesis profile 4 (for the fronts) on the back of one of the rear seats and a Precision Power 500W sub amp on the other, with and Audioscape sub enclosure and 10" Rainbow Amboss. Keeps the boot prefectly usable and takes up very little space.

That's a neatly done install :D . I have a 10" in a sealed box in the same place as your 2 8"s, and amps fixed to the back of both rear seats. Leaves most of the boot clear and great for practicality.

Check the wiring to the ISV as well. The wiring routes past a lot of high temperature areas and the sheathing goes brittle over time. I had a problem with mine where the sheath was so brittle it cracked and the wire was shorting out causing an occasionally lump idle.

Ok, cheers guys, so at the moment we've got 2 before and 1 after. Looks like the befores are coming out on top, but has anyone else tried this out...

As with all things if they aren't maintained regularly then they can fail. Basically you are looking at rebuilding the charger every 20k-40k miles (depending on the size of the pulley it has and how heavy your right foot is). Rebuilds cost about about £350-400 AFAIR. If they are maintained there is no reason why they should be any less reliable than any other car. It helps if you live within reasonable driving distance of G-Werks as well, as they can do a drive in drive out rebuild service for an extra £50. G60 should get you 30-35 mpg on the motorway in a reasonable state of tune. It is also relatively easy to get up to around 200bhp (at the flywheel) with a chip and a smaller pulley.

Its all in the Knowledge Base under General Corrado info.

...the CO pot on a G60 folks? What do we think here - I've read a few threads and they seem to advocate both. My thoughts are before so the CO pot has chance to register the colder denser air, or is it just that I am being denser :lol: . Also activation on WOT or boost pressure switch? In theory they should come on at the same time as full boost only comes on at WOT, but if people have experience with different ways of doing it, any advice would be great. Thanks :D

Definately not a geek - anywhere to get these type of things in the UK, I fancy building one too :D

There are a couple of NOS users on here Chris VR6 NOS and Corrado VR6 NOS. There was a G60 with it in a copy of Golf+ a couple of years ago. I'm toying with the idea of a 50 shot to cool the intake temps, but I've seen too much evidence of what can go wrong, which is why I am trying water/methanol first,and will let you know.

I asked this before and got very little response, so hopefully someone will have more info this time round. Out of interest I purchased one of the water/methanol system from the group buy on here and will be fitting that to my G whenn I get a chance. Personally I don't like the idea of introducing NOS before the G lader - something about that just doesn't appeal to me....

Yes it does replace the black box Mick, so it's definately not that :?

Do you still have the black plastic box on the output of the charger? It is common for the seal in the middle of these to fail and cause a boost leak which is a high pitch squeak. 10psi is low for a fresh charger unless you have a flowed head, and would indicate a leak. The boost return itself makes a whistling noise, when on part throttle - definately not that?

I'll see if i can pull the part number out, i got it from ECP, they sell a few for the corrado i got the one with all three pins in a perfect line (some have 2 pins lower and one pin above, or pins in a triangler formation). Mine did come with a copper washer, so it might be best to do as davidwort suggested and get yourself a fibre washer for a better seal. :salute: Cool, that would be great, and thanks for the advice on the fibre washer :)

Good to hear you got it sorted. Out of interest which thermoswitch are you using (do you have a part number) as I'm looking for something that would keep it around there. The standard ones sit higher than that, and the low temp ones seems to kick in much too early, 80-85 is a good happy medium.

Check the ECU relay as well. Mine did that once or twice, and I changed the ECU relay, hasn't done it since. Have a search on here, there should be quite a few threads...

Very nicely made :D But as mentioned above reading them might be a bit of a problem. Gives your passenger something look at though :)

Well, for number 2, that is basically it. Unscrew the old one and screw a new one in (its a 27mm spanner I think). Did mine yesterday, so it is still fresh on my mind 8) . Sorry, but not sure about the rest, although I am sure someone else will be along to help you there.

Yeah, I think I might do that from now on. Atleast then I shouldn't have too many problems with the fan staying on after I park up, as the steady state should be 70 degrees.

Hmmm, the plot thickens. I tried disconnecting the black fan run on control box in the engine bay, and that had absolutely no effect what so ever (fan still didn't go off). The high temp run on switch next to the fuel rail works as it should too. Basically the fan comes on at about 80 (I have a low temp fan switch), but then doesn't go off again even when the car has got back down to 70 (I have a low temp stat as well). So once, it's on it doesn't go off while the car is running. Then when parked up it seems as though it ran until the battery went dead (it was a very hot day, parked in the sun, after a long run through traffic). So I've swapped the rad temp switch for an old one I had laying around, and guess what, comes on, and goes off when it should. Looks as though it was the low temp rad switch that was the problem. Going to test it tomorrow to see what temps it actually switches on and off at.

Cheers Rob. The big black box is the one near the coolant reservoir that you mention (mines a 92 G60). One thing I haven't tried yet is unplugging the rad temp switch when it is running to see whether that is what is cauing it (maybe it is not switching off as early as it should). Will try that next time it is up to temp.

Just had a fuuny day with my G60. Driving along earlier and the fan came on in traffic (as per usual) then didn't want to go off again, even when everything should be nice and cool (70mph, free flowing on the mway). Parked up, and that fan was still running (not a big shock as it had been in stationary traffic for a while just before parking). Locked up and left, came back 3 hours later and the battery was dead. Jump start, drove home, and the fan again came on in traffic, and didn't want to go off again. I've done the following tests... Ignition off, engine relatively cold, disconnect connection to thermoswitch on the block and earth it. Fan comes on. Take the earth away fan goes off. As it should, so it doesn't seem to be the thermoswitch. Took it out for a spin, got it just up to temp of the fan coming on. Fan came on. Straight away switched off the engine and left it for 15mins. Fan continued arunning nd showed no signs of switching off (also tried disconnecting the thermoswitch at this point and the fan continued even when that was disconnected). Then, unplugged the fan (obviously the fan went off), and reconnected straight away, and the fan remained off. :shrug: Really confused by this, as I initially suspected the thermoswitch, but that seems to be working alright. What happens when the big black fan control box fails - is it this type of thing it does, and if so how best to check it? Any advice would be great please folks.