JMC

Some people do it themselves, but its such a temperamental device I get mine done professionally. I would recommend John Mitchell Racing in Littlehampton. Others use Jabba sport or Only Charged Dubs, I don't know much about them though. Whoever you send it to should be able to crack it open and see if its OK, and replace any damaged seals.

If you've got excessive oil in the inlet system then chances are it's the charger that needs a service. Depending on what sized pulley it is running rebuilds can be needed as frequently as 20k miles. Unless it has a receipt for the work, you can't assume it has been done well. Also having tried the boost delete I'd suggest putting it back to normal. Any benefits, if there are any, are tiny, and without the boost return to give it a little oil, the charger needs regular lubricating with a very specific PTFE lube.

Hmmm, I seem to be having mixed results with it. Put 2 items up for sale today, a roof rack and a sub amp. One has come through to the forum page and the other hasn't.

Precision Power sub amp PPI DCX 500.1 Precision Power sub amp (model PPI DCX 500.1) for sale. 500W into 1ohm and 200W into 4 ohms. Used this in my car until recently, and it was ideal for powering a sub in the boot. Only removed it as I am stripping out a few items from the car. Approx 150 when new. Some minor cosmetic marks, but operates fine. Heavy, but can ship at buyers expense if needed. Based near J13 of the M25. List Date: 4/12/2014 Location: Egham, Surrey, United Kingdom For more info, click here to view the original listing: Precision Power sub amp PPI DCX 500.1 -------------------------------------- On Sale For: ?30.00 (Local Pickup Only) -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: Precision Power sub amp PPI DCX 500.1 Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Definitely a like not a hate from me...

Yes that's right. There's three pins on the co pot though. Have a search on here as to which to to measure across though.

Ideally you want to be setting this up with using a wideband lambda probe as every car is different depending on its precise setup and whether any other mods have been made. The 450ohms thing has to be done when the car is hot, so make sure it is up to temp (80ish C) before you take the resistance measurement.

My Clifford alarm has started playing up, and I've been reliably informed that it is responsible for my battery going flat every 3 days if I don't run the car. It is at least 10 years old to be fair, but I'm now thinkng about alternatives. Having spoken to my insurer they mentioend they no longer need an alarm for the insurance, just an immoboliser, which is great as I would much prefer to get rid of the alarm completely and strip out loads of superfluous wiring. I've been told Cobra are good ones, but does anyone have any other recommendations or thoughts on this?

Sorry mate, couldn't find it. In the middle of rebuilding the garage and everything in boxes. Will keep an eye open for you though.

Will try tonight, but not home until 7:30 PM, and it means a night in the shed with a torch, lol. Will check ASAP.

I may well have one at home - will check later and let you know. I did have one, but I cannot for the life of me remember whether it sold at my last clearout or not.

Just tried placing an ad for a centre sunvisor I have for sale (as I have a few bits I need rid of I thought I'd better try the new system). Seems to have worked fine for me - just took a few minutes. I'm working from Firefox, although to be honest I did not try to upload a pic for this ad (will try adding one later and see how that goes).

Yeah he did the headlining, using my existing one and having it retrimmed. Also had to relocated the interior light to make it all look right.

Well, after 6 weeks with JMR (rather than the originally planned 2 weeks, so you can imagine how the original work plan escalated), and substantial amounts of work, I have my G60 back. And yes I mean substantial amounts (I think John and Troy are glad to see the back of it). Work done was endless, but included, new carbon roof, new original front bumper (old modded one has gone the the great skip in the sky), replacement boot, repaired sills and rear arches, new windscreen, repaired a pillars, various respray and body work, alcantara headlining, new fuel pump system, new rear brake disks calipers, pads etc, servicing the gearbox and engine, and, and, and, I can't remember without referring back to bill. Anyway, it now looks amazing and drives and handles so much better. It's been a while since I did anything to the car other than carry concrete to the dump in it, so it's good to be finally doing something nice to it.

Glad to see it's gone ok. 14psi sounds about right, especially if you're running standard head/cam. Unfortunately my car is in bits at the moment so can't check, but I would have thought that on idle there should be some vacuum (from memory I'm sure mine pulls a vacuum on idle). Is the throttle cable adjusted properly on yours (check the idle switch is active with your foot off thr throttle and that with your foot off the throttle that it isn't slightly open), and where is your idle (in rpm)?

No problem, and good luck with it G60's are good fun (as long as they are well looked after).

The braided hose to the ECU is a very specific diameter (and needs to be a specific length). You can get it from VW, but I seem to recall it's only available in 5m lengths. Not sure whether it is as important to use the proper VW stuff for the one to the back of the clocks though...

I'm guessing this is for a G60? if so then yes, from the back of the cluster is the neater way to do it. Not sure what that square brass fitting is, but I'm guessing it was the place the first boost gauge was plumbed in, and probably why it now isn't working.

Was ages ago, but I think it was fabric paint from Frosts, who are a classic car restorers. To be honest though, recovering it is the best option. One issue I had with mine was that it ended up going quite brittle and the black surface was easily damaged.

Never came in black. I resprayed mine with fabric paint when I decided I wanted it black.

Mines a daily, and I've got the usual fogging up, battery draining, electrical system gradually failing issues (sunroof died, spoiler is an occasional thought, lights are fine 29 days of the month and then do not work in the dead of night in the middle of the countryside etc). It's currently in with JMR for some major work and I just had a long email from John covering all the bits I didn't know about. Should be a new car when I get it back.

Honestly, it was such an amazing place, it is well worth a visit to anyone who's visiting the area. The collection does change as well - cars come and go as the owners decide to show different ones.

Spent an hour yesterday going round Blackhawk Museum in Danville, California, and thought I would share some pics. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202925444670772.1073741826.1042711766&type=1&l=b0a55d4088 Anyone one should be able to see these pics (even those Facebook haters without an account ;-) ). Amazing place, and all the cars are privately owned, lent to to the museum, and driven atleast once a year. I was amazed at how many had UK numberplates as well. Some of the large Rolls Royces and Bentleys must be a sight on the road. Apparently one guy owns about 65% of the entire collection. Here's a link to the website as well, for some better photos. http://www.blackhawkmuseum.org/autogallery.html Seems a bit like Brooklands as they have regular car shows and owners club meets.

It's definitely not mint clumpy (plenty of dings and scrapes), but it has had a few choice mods over the years. I'm still using it as a daily, and it gives me a reliable 250bhp out a g60 which is always good for a laugh.

It'll be with jmr for a couple of weeks, but will get some pics up once it's all done.