JMC

Cheers for the advice guys, and Matt thanks for the image, that's the type of thing I'm looking to achieve (na dgood to see where you've put your number plate too). I think as you say BigTartan, I'll do the plastic cutting first myself and then mark up what needs to be removed from the metal work and let someone else do that. I had planned on filling the hole with mesh of some sort, and I was going to colour it black to match the car. I suppose the big question is does it really make that much difference to the flow of air over the FMIC and rad? I know just by looking at it, it should, but does really increase it substantially?

Cheers to mrbeige for the front bumper - he even dropped it around to me for free :D

Seen a few cars with the number plate hole opened up to allow air to get to the rad and FMIC (I have a Golf G60 one on mine). Has anyone here got first hand experience of doing it as I have a couple of questions - mainly around the metalwork behind the plastic. In the pictures below are the areas from the front and back of the metal work I'm thinking of removing. How much of this is necessary to the structural integrity of the bumper, and how much can I safely remove?? Cheers folks :D

Thats a really useful link Dan. I've been meaning to do this for ages, and it looks like I now have another job for whn the weather gets better.

Thanks Paul, As Junkie says, you'll notice a big difference just with the brembos, nd to be honest it will be easier and cheaper to do. The reason I didn't is that I didn't want to buy yet another set of brake callipers, so I decided wo work with what I had.

Cheers Phil. Yes, the intial outlay was (for something that is designed to wear out) scary to say the least. Thankfully it all seems to be fine now. Yay

Yep, try the blue and light grey wire, that is the one that normally gets connected up after playing with the stereo as it is the same co,our as the lights dimmer circuit. Make sure that wire is connected up as it should be as if it is disconnected, or connected to something it shouldn't be, the spoiler will not go up automatically.

Not been playing around the the stereo recently have you?? IIR one of the wires to the spoiler control is the same colour as one of the stereo ones, and if it is connected up by accident it stops the spoiler going up automatically.

Time for a quick update - put 1000 miles on these now and any binding has ceased. All in all very good brakes (better than I will ever need) so to anyone thinking of trying something like this - yes the callipers will take discs slightly wider than the normal ones, however expect a big of rubbing for a few hundred miles while everything settles in. Oh, and BG Developments were great to deal with...

Had a quick look with the search and Relay 79 seems to be to do with the ABS. Have a search too, as there are a few threads which seem to mention similar problems to yours.

....and a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too guys :D

Hmmm, interesting. I presume these can be set up to be suitable for right hand drive like the InPros?

Couple of other things you'll need to consider.... You also have a hole in the early door card for the electric mirror control (and the wiring for the early and later mirror controls is different). You will need different interior door handles as the early and late ones are different shapes (the late ones are curved and the early ones straight sided). They are a direct swap though. If you want to keep the late electric mirror control in the same place as the late spec one you'll need to see if the late grab handle fit an early door.

How about the lambda sensor - have you checked that? AFAIK the lambda is important for correct idling(but I'm sure someone will be along soon the correct me if I'm wrong).

I would also check the wiring to the ISV. On my G60 the wires had actually burnt though as they passed overe the manifold. 15 years of heat treatment and the insulation had cracked, and the copper corroded. I removed the section of wiring and replaced it with new wire, and it solved my problem (low revs and cutting out). The ISV can be cleaned as well, which I would recommend trying before buying a new one. There are plenty of threads for that on here, but I seem to recall it is cleaned with either carb cleaner or petrol.

Thanks to chargedupstorm for the headlight parts - cheers Guy :D

Try Dub Design Industries in Canada. They make curved (blue tinted mirrors) and is happy to ship over here. Think he's on here as Zarman, but it's best to contact him through his own website. I have a set of his mirrors on my car, and they are good quality (apart from having the really annoying "cars are closer than they appear" writing on the drivers side one :lol: ).

Cheers flusted. I ordered some today, so hopefully it will do the business.

Thanks to 87 Jetta 16v for the Peloquin. Good to deal with and quick dispatch. Cheers mate :D :D

I've had some ally welding done on the 1st part of the thrttle body now, and have sanded that back further - should have addressed the issues outlined before. Only slight problem is that where there are bubbles in the welding I'm now left with lots of little holes - does anyone know if JB Weld or some other chemical metal is suitable for filling these as I want to keep it as smooth as possible??

Just a note to say thanks to Darren, Lee and Rob. Just been down there today and had H&R antiroll bars fitted along with new front wish bones. As always excellent service, and the ride home was fun :D until I hit rush hour traffic :( . The car definately feels more planted now, and the steering is more direct. Thanks guys....

I used a socket out of the front of a mK4 Golf for mine. Those boot mounted ones with power 12v written on them are useful for running a sat nav, and I have one of those in my passenger side under dash tray so I don't have to have wires coming out of the fron of my dash.

I could actually hear it against the pad as I spun the wheel, so I'm sure it's that. Know what you mean about the driveshaft etc though Kev, and I wasn't expecting it to be free wheeling like the rears. I was just surprised at how quickly it stopped. Unfortunately I don't have a bench sander (just something about doing that is admitting defeat as well, and I have concerns about keeping it flat, as the last muppet who had done that on my previous set had the surface of it curved like the horizon :shock: ). I am back up to 1-2 mpg down on what I was before changing them, so it must at some point go back to normal. I'm off down to G-Werks on monday so that will put a few more miles on it (110 round trip), so I'll see how it feels after that, then I might have to admit defeat and take it to be done - especially with it being rolling roaded in a weeks time.

Hmmm, checked the wheels over the weekend. The rears rotate freely, so it aint them. The fronts, when I try to spin them, stop after about a quarter of a turn. Had a quick feel around on the calliper and there is basically zero space between the back of the pad and the calliper. On the plus side it has got a little better - I am now only about 2mpg down on what I was before I had them done. Still only done about 250 miles in it since fitting them (problems with living close to work), so it seems they're just going to need some more surface wearing off them. On the plus side the discs are not heating on one side preferantially, so the callipers appear to be aligned correctly which is a good thing.

On my G60 I just connected the speed 1 and speed 2 wires together, and had both of those going to the positive on the fan. That way the fan comes on at full speed at speed 1, but it means that the temp rarely even reaches 100C even when stuck in traffic.