JMC

Has anyone actually done a dyno run on before and after wrapping a 4 (or even 6 branch) manifold?? To me it makes perfect sense that a hotter exhaust keeps the gasses moving faster, but looking with the search has produced lots of "it will be better, but I'd be interested to see when you've dyno'd" types of responses. Basically keen to know before I fit one, it strikes me that they'll be a darn site easier to wrap before putting on the car. Thanx folks.

Not allways im afraid. there is a huge differance between Airspeed vs Airflow. We cut and shut an inlet very much like yours in the early days and actually lost power (noticably when driven too) We then ran mk1 golf Inlets and made 6-10 lbs of torque more at a set point. So does this go back to my question earlier.... "So is porting this section like porting a manifold - a trade off between torque and horsepower?? Just been thinking about it, and surely there is a trade off between fast gas flow (through a smaller but flowed and flat surfaces removed hole) and more but slower gas when it is bored out. Or have I done my usual and gone off on a complete tangent?" Like flowing a head, there's no point just making it bigger as the gas slows down so much. Is it all about about a balance of generating efficient smooth gas flow when it is needed??

Don't suppose anyone has a set of Brembo brakes for the G60 laying around at the moment?? If you do please can you tell me the distance between the calliper mounting holes on the calliper carriers... Many thanks.

They come in pretty much whatever offset you want for them.... I had my 16's made by Compomotive and they gave me 5 or 10mm less/extra (long day and can't remember which) to push them out a bit more and fill the arches without needing spacers. Mine easily clear Porsche Boxster callipers and 305mm discs, so they will be fine with the brembos.

That manifold looks good - never seen inside one of those :lol: Done a bit more to my throttle body tonight - getting there slowly.

I presume the late and early interior Corrado's both had the same cigarette lighter - if that is the case then it's too large (the socket that is). One thing you could do is fit a second socket and run it from that. I have a second socket in the passenger under dash tray for running my sat nav off. I bought this from vagparts and it normally a boot fixture, but being newer it has a smaller diameter and fits the torch. See about 2/3 the way down this for a picture.... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34451&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=jmc&start=90

Those are really useful pictures flusted, and don't worry about the quality - I can see where you've taken the material off from it, which is the important thing. I hadn't even thought about doing the rear face :shock: . Looks as though I've got loads more still to remove.

Right next bit, before I start on it. Does the section between the 2 butterfly valves even need to be there?? This would make air flow into he smaller valve alot easier, and I can't personally think why it needs to be so high. Was thinking of removing material as outlined by the red line below.

Don't know - never run it down completely and it recharges whenever it's plugged in. It is very, very bright for such a small torch though.

Thanks flusted - saves my dealer floundering around for hours trying to find them :lol:

Even started on the other bit tonight, after I figured out how to take it apart (complex, and going to be fun to put back together). Mmm more sanding and polishing needed.

That's what I like - definately a good way to be able to remove loads of material. Will have to see if my local shop will do that for me.

Thanks Darren, I've removed about 3mm there so far, but after what flusted mentioned, don't really want to port through it. Looks like I'll have to go slow and remove some more, but the difficulty I'm finding is the problem of actually getting something in there to do it.

Cheers Flusted, always useful to see ones that have already been done, and for the advice about flap wheels - all I need now is a dremel. Not sure about modifying the boost return section. I'm sure Darren will be back on here later and will be able to add something constructive to that... I'm still trying to take mine apart - got some done last night, but it really is complex. Should be another fun night of figuring it out tonight.

That was - got a scanned in file of the original heather controls, tidied up the image and lined it all up, changed to colours to what I wanted in Photoshop, made a reverse copy of the image as well (explain later), sized them up so they were the same as the original, printed both the normal and reversed one on acetate, cut out and stuck them back to back to protect the ink and provide a denser black (hence the need for a reverse image as well as the normal one), mounted it in the control along with about 4 or 5 more mini 12V light bulbs to give even illumination along the length of it (something the original is terrible at). Simple :lol:

I've got one in mine, but I fitted a later VW socket (and made a new cigarette lighter/gaugue holder for the dash for it as well) as the one on my G60 was too big for it to fit properly. Think I got a socket from a 2000ish Golf at a breakers for the socket. Looks good and charges fine from the new one. In fact for the interested parties.... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34451&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=jmc&start=45

Chances are it is the cables that push the spoiler up and down. Has been covered before and the search is your friend. If that is the problem the unit needs taking apart, the cables taking out and cleaning, then regreasing and putting back. Not a hard job apart from a) the captive nuts that will probably shear off - you'll see what I mean, and b) trying to extracate the spoiler mechanism from the boot whe it is inter-twined with the boot loack and rear wash wipe.

Cheers Darren, get the feeling I'm going to need different tools though, as I've been doing this with a file and wet and dry so far, and am running ut of bits I can easily get at :lol:

Wow that looks really good. I've been finding loads of imperfections in the casting of mine, so looks like I'm going to have plenty of polishing to do. Started on the other section as well, and have decided to take some off the entry both valves. Very rough at the moment, and am in the process of taking it all apart for easier access (man that thing is complex :? ). Cheers for the advice too flusted, will have another go at it.

No idea mate, I got mine from a breaker for £10 for the pair I think. Might be worth trying a breaker as well as the dealers.

Get a set of later door handles and surrounds. They are a direct replacement and fit the doors and the pull for the lock without any hassle.

Have they started working gain now?? Could be dirty contacts on the switches. Not uncommon for them to misbehave like that and work sometimes but not others. If you're handy with little watchmakers screwdrivers you can take the switches apart and clean the conacts up. Have look wih the search as this sort of behaviour has been covered before.

OMG that's terrible....

Right, done a bit more and started removing some of the rough marks from the file. Also taken some material out from within where there was a sharp edge (Image 2, and I presume that was where you were refering to flusted?). Came back in with hands looking like hey were from the Tin Man in the Wizard of Oz after doing this :lol: Ok folks, I still want to do more smoothing of it, but does it need to be really mirror smooth at the end??

Wow, that is a huge difference :shock: . Puts my filing into context. Now, if only I had access to a machine shop :? So is porting this section like porting a manifold - a trade off between torque and horsepower?? Just been thinking about it, and surely there is a trade off between fast gas flow (through a smaller but flowed and flat surfaces removed hole) and more but slower gas when it is bored out. Or have I done my usual and gone off on a complete tangent :lol: