mrbeige

What about colour coding the side strips?

Oh I agree, quality not quantity. Much better to spend your money on a really good pair of components and a smallish sub and a good quality amplifer than lots of speakers and poop cheap amps. A good source helps no end as well, and don't forget to make sure the 'loudness' is not turned on on the head unit ;)

They aren't that bad... ;)

It doesn't really matter if you are running passive or active crossover to be fair, as the crossover will effectively split the frequency for mid and tweeter, thus no two speakers are running at the same frequency on the same channel. When you bridge an amp (not all are able to be bridged) you are spreading the load across the two bridged channels, and you basically share the impedance between the two channels. The difference would be if you were to run two mids off one channel, then you have two wiring configurations that you can use; parallel or series. Given a standard 4 Ohm mid, in parallel you will end up with a 2 Ohm load across one channel, in series you will see an 8 Ohm load across one channel. Amplifiers that have built in active crossovers are an interesting feature. The advantages of using an active crossover is that you are high, low or band passing the frequencies but at line input levels and thus you get very little loss as the 'splitting' of the frequencies are done before amplification, but a good active crossover is an expensive bit of circuitry and for me I find that a dedicated active crossover ( as opposed to one built into and amp or indeed a head unit) to be much better sound quality wise. Passive crossovers on the other hand, 'split' the frequenices after amplification and consume some of the amplified signal in the process, BUT, they have been designed to work with the component kit that you have and thus for normally sound a little better ( when I say better, it's a difficult one to put into words). Passive crossover designs have improved over the years, so for the cheaper end of the market I'd go down that route all day long. If I were you I'd err on the side of sub enclosure and separate amp, as the generally sound better and can be fitted so as not to compromise your boot. HTH

Indeed, but that depends on the speakers. If you are driving a pair of components, which are more often than not 4 Ohms, then bridging the amp will give you effectively two 2 Ohms on each channel. the fact you get more power is because the 4 Ohm load is across two channels, thus the load is less per channel, allowing the amp to drive the smaller load 'harder'.

I'm going to try, can't hurt, plus I never go under a car without an axle stand anyway... :nono:

Problem with bridging the Profile Four is that you'll lose quality, total harmonic distortion invariable increases when running a smaller load per channel (2 Ohms as opposed to 4). I'd be inclined to use a Profile Two for now, and then get either a profile sub or a Profile Two Ultra, dependant on the impedance of your sub(s). As far as fitting goes, the profile range are as the name suggests quite slim in profile, less that 25mm high IIRC, so building a simple false floor would be quite easy, or indeed more simply a carpeted piece of MDF on the back seat with the amps mounted to that. Audioscape do a very nice sub box (which you may have seen) that goes under the left hand parcel shelf support. I used to have one and then my amp on the opposite side. Plenty of usable boot left. Hope that helps :wave:

Indeed an oldie but a goodie, Jim! I love that, it's flucking hilarious....ULTIMATE FAIL!

They have to little red caps over two access points, one of which is probably a bleed nipple (oo-er), but IIRC it does say not to remove them lol

I have similar problem with my Hellfrauds jack. It's about 5 years old, but loses the ability to lift after a period of time, especially if you pump it up quite high. I think it might be the hydraulic fluid that has leaked over time, and so is it possible to refill it with fluid? [EDIT] ^^^^^ I'm not alone with dodgy Hellfrauds ones then?

Could well be the temp sender on the engine. About £35 to replace :) Yup, sounds feasible. Do you access to VAG-com, or indeed someone close who has it?

Oh bugger, sorry to hear about that. :( So how has a minor starting issue escalated to all that work? Is this advice from a garage? What exactly are the starting issues?

Whoa, Tom, you weren't kidding :eek:

You should be able to get the instructions of their website dude. What's the model number?

Replied 8)

Updated first post. I am just about to start a new batch, but I need to be sure that I have enough genuine interest before ordering the PCBs. Due to issues with commitments from previous buyers of the last batch, I am asking for a small deposit of £15 in advance. The lead time on the boards is in fact up to 3 weeks, rather than previously mentioned 6-8. I can therefore say that time to completion will be a maximum of 1 month, but maybe be less. If you are interested please let me know as soon as possible. :D

That is one seriously beautiful car! About time, that's what I say 8)

Took me a second or two.....brilliant! :lol:

Still fairly rare in this country I think. I like the look of those two, but I bet they handle like f*ck all on earth...

Indeed! Still, it looks nice!

Ah, still in the honeymoon period....

Noooooo, not given up, just saving for a wedding.....priorities and all that!

Yes mate I am ;) I'll hopefully get the moonroof in this weekend, so I'll let you know as soon as the other mech is available :)

Do you still want that roof mech? I have a replacement moonroof mech to go in Gooney, so my current one will be available very soon :)

Aaaaand I'm spent... :afro: