coolrado

Dont you mean Relays? even the supposedly sealed ones tend to get damp and corrode in this weather, i came back to a flat battery last week after one of the relays filled up with water and turned my left headlight on all night, i have just ordered some high current relays that i am going to put inside a watertight enclosure this time, i might even fill it with windscreen adhesive just to be sure. :lol:

Andy665, if you do get a meter and its just going to be sitting in a cold garage for months at a time occasionally being used, take the batteries out of it, if you leave them in there too long they will probably leak and ruin the meter, and if you get an el cheapo meter the batteries are also likely to be cheap and more likely to leak.

many uni's and tech's still use the avo 7&8, when i did my s**tty and guilds 2240 parts 1,2&3 we had to use them as there are certain tests that could only be done with an old moving coil meter and avo where about as accurate as you could and still can get. certainly not cheap though new avo 8

if you can, try and get one with an analogue (needle) display as well as the digital display, digital displays are generally very slow to react to changes in voltage or resistance and you can often miss surges in a power supply from a faulty regulator or other electrical gremlins, you can also check for injector pulses more easily with a needle type display. one of the best meters i used was an AVO 8 about the size of a breeze block and just as heavy, i think it used to cost about £300 to callibrate though.

thoses are ISO to DIN aerial adapters, what he needs is the screw in type connector used at the rear of the headlining where the long aerial cable from the headunit connects to the actual aerial, as far as i know its a vag only connector so it might be a case of cutting the plug off the old one.

i have the same one for the same reason, as well as not getting in the way when i put the cover on the car. you might be dissapointed with the fm reception though, i am going to take mine apart and put the gps antenna for the navigation in it and get an internal glass mount fm aerial instead.

i think you mean the ones that adapt a stubby right angle connector as found in vauxhaull's :shaking: to the long normal ones, the connector he needs is for at the back where the antenna connects above the headlining, i just cut the connector of the old antenna and used that. p.s. is the new antenna a shark fin off e-bay by any chance?

and less overfueling which seems to be a common complaint about jabba chips.

it seems too curvy for an angular car like the corrado, it doesnt suit the lines of the car as well as the RS style bumpers do, i dont really like them either but appreciate most people fit them to mount a big intercooler behind, might be better once its painted, certainly not my cup-o-tea but as has been said, each to their own.

it shouldnt take a lot of work as its simply a piece of large bore pipe that leads from the rear of the engine bay to the bottom of the car facing slightly backwards, or you could fit a couple of smaller ones. it would have no real effect while stationary but it does work very well while moving, yeah hot air rises but the "chimney effect" vacum more than compensates for that. i did find a site a while ago which did show thermal imaging of an engine bay and there was a concentrated hot spot above the exhaust manifold which wasnt really effected by increased ventillation at the grill, appearently there was some sort of turbulance in the engine bay which caused a heat build up at the rear, the only way they could find to solve it without ruining the cars looks was using the ducting at the rear of the engine above the exhaust manifold the same way tvr do it, i have some photo's at home of the underside of a tvr from the motorshow which show it quite well. from what i remember it reduced the temperature above the exhaust manifold by about 20c at motorway speeds.

Is it an aftermarket stereo? there is a speed pulse wire (blue and white i think) in the stereo loom but some people connect this to the wrong wire on the stereo and it kills the spoiler control module, have you checked all the fuses?

have you had a new stereo fitted recently or has it not worked for a while?

you could also do what tvr do and have a large bore tube leading from the upper rear of the engine bay to the underside of the car, as you drive it draws the hot air from the bay and exhausts it under the car.

They will be powder coat laquered as soon as they are assembled so i wont need to polish them constantly any more, i'm just not sure i could justify spending that much extra on the stainless rims when they are only going to be on the car for a few months of the year, and even if i did go stainless the bolts would still corrode, if the whole thing is laquered once its assembled it shouldnt corrode. i just feel for the amount i would spend on a set of stainless rims i could buy a brand new set of normal alloys, although i did see a video of a guy driving into a curb with the stainless rims on purpose to show how strong they where and it caused more damage to the curb than the rim.

i will be getting the wheels back from the powder coaters on friday (decided to go for a darkish silver powder coat with a high gloss laquer finnish) i gave up on stripping the paint myself as it was a complete pita, the top layer came off quite easily but there is a grey primer base coat which was almost impossible to get off, so i found a different powder coaters who are stripping and coating them for 150 quid all in, and they also use a polyester powder laquer which is white when they spray it on to ensure total coverage and then bake it which makes it go clear and glossy. i now need to put the order in for the rims with Image but i am still a bit unsure what width outer to get for them, i think after e38 this year the stretch look has grown on me a little but i dont want anything silly and still dont want the arches rolled. the coilies will be set so the top of the tyre is level with the arch but i dont want any scrubbing, so what width should i go for? anyone got any pics of their cars on 15" BBS RM's with wider lips?

the two rear sunroof drain tubes come out behind the rear bumper at the sides, make sure there isnt mud packed around the tubes and if you have a compressor even a small one with an air bed attachment, try connecting that to the bottom of the drain tube and give them a blast, that should clear out any crud thats in the tubes, and the same with the front tubes.

yeah they are definately made by kw, it says so on the box and guarantee and has kw moulded into the spring platforms. they are just the non stainless versions of the kw's.

i continue to be very impressed with the ride on the weitec coilies i got from Darren, even though i have it set so low i hit a coke can that was on its side with the front splitter yesterday. i cant see how people manage to fit these things incorrectly, they come pre assembled FFS, have some people got such short attention spans that they cant remember the order the bits came off the car in the first place?

A quote from wikipedia: Traffic Message Channel, or TMC, is a technology for delivering traffic and travel information to drivers. It is typically digitally coded using the FM-RDS system on conventional FM radio broadcasts. It can also be transmitted on DAB or satellite radio. It allows silent delivery of high quality accurate, timely and relevant information, in the language chosen by the user and without interrupting normal services. Services, both public and commercial, are now operational in many European countries. When data is integrated directly into a navigation system, this gives the driver the option to take alternative routes to avoid traffic incidents. my pioneer dvd nav has TMC and it does seem to work very well, it is regularly updated and does take into account the length of delay and whether its worth re-routing you or not, you can also select each delay that shows up on the map and view information about it, like if its an accident or roadworks and how long the delay will be, i did use the traffic info on the tom tom for a while but it was a total waste of time, the information was allways out of date and inaccurate and also depended on whether you had gprs reception on your mobile so it was pretty pointless, but its the only thing i could find fault with on the tom tom.

mine was taking ages to start a couple of weeks ago, only just managing to start as the battery was about to die, and the idle was all over the place, before i tried anything expensive i just replaced the blue temperature sensor and that sorted it which is odd as the one that was in it was only a year old (from ecp though) and last time it failed it gave a completely different set of symptoms, might be worth trying if they are easy to get down under.

i decided to buy another set of the justmatz mats on the weekend at e38, and this time the writing seems much more secure it appears to be attached by a heat activated adhesive backing so maybe the ones that came loose just hadnt been heated up enough, their customer service is very good, when i bought the set last year and the writing fell off i took them back and the guy instantly gave me a refund and offered me a discount so i could order a custom set on line.

get some polyurethane adhesive sealant, (i used u-pol tiger seal) the stuff they use to seal windscreens in and just put a few small blobs of it behind the plastic panel where it touches and the same with the rear plate, its also worth removing the cover on the inside of the boot and putting some felt around certain bits of the lock mech and any other bits that seem rattly in the boot as you will be able to hear them rattle as well.

is it sort of smooth judder that makes the car shake slightly under braking or a violent judder that pulls the car to one side? if its the latter it could even be a cracked brake disk, i had that happen to me after a bit of high speed braking, and it reduced some nearly new brake pads to nothing within about 20 miles as the disk was slicing chunks out of the pads every time i pressed the pedal. i was pretty lucky the disk didnt explode, which did happen to a friend of mine on the motorway who wrote the car off into the barrier. check the front and rear of the disk for any signs of cracking and if they are cracked dont use the car until they are changed.

cheers Darren, due to the cost, the stainless rims are'nt really an option (think i was quoted £138 per rim) :shocked: compared to £66 for the image ally ones. the rims will either be powder coat laquered or coated with glisten pc so shouldnt really be a problem on the maintainance front. i have just had the new chrome bolts through the post and i was looking into polishing the face of the main part of the wheel and have a bead blasted finish to the inner parts of the spokes, then have the whole wheel laquered after they are built and then seal them once they are laquered. what width tyre would i need for a 2" rim then? and do you reckon i would be better getting the same width front and rear?

the rm's will be getting stripped down and powder coated when i get back from saudi but i'm not really sure what width outers to go for. i love the look of the rado lowered with nice wide rear wheels, it just suits the shape of the car imo. i was thinking about 2"on the back and 1" on the front but would go wider as long as it doesnt require arch work, i dont want a big stretch on the tyres, i would prefer the sidewalls to be square if possible. so what rims can i get away with and still keep the tyre reasonably square and tucked under the arch?