coolrado

200 mile a day round trip :shock: , wrexham to tewkesbury currently using a company van and fuel card but will be losing both soon so i will either have to move down near tewkesbury or rent during the week.

if your window control box is still pulling 200mA after 8 hours its either faulty (probably a relay with stuck contacts) or the wiring has been messed about with, after looking through wiring diagrams there is no reason for the control box to continue drawing current after the timer has timed out, the only time it should is for a while after the door has been opened or when the ignition is on and for a short while after the ignition is switched off, i left my car standing for 3 weeks last time i went to saudi and it started first turn when i returned. the only thing i disconnected while i was away was the alarm.

i think the one window at a time issue is just down to penny pinching VW so they didnt have to use chunky wiring and relays capable of coping with the current of both window motors operating at the same time. also when the current draw was measured was the door open? the window module is activated when the ignition is on and also when the door is opened and for a short while after the ignition is switched off, after this short time it should shut down and not draw any current, mine certainly doesnt. it would also be handy if the sunroof remained active for a short while after the ignition was switched off as i have lost count of the number of times i forgot to close the sunroof and had to switch the ignition back on to close it, as mine is an early model it doesnt have the full closure feature that the late cars had.

which wire did you measure the current draw on?

resettable type are not cheap from RS 6amp replaces 5amp which is normal due to the way these operate indicator type are a bit cheaper indicator type havn't had chance to drive any of the mogs yet, i did a lot of installation work on various models of mog from about P reg up to brand new curvy ones for scottish and southern energy, fitting tracking systems. older ones where very agricultural to work on but the new ones are very similar to the new jcb's inside and much more up to date (not as reliable though appearantly) edit: we did experience a few problems with more sensative equipment when using the indicator type fuses as they did allow a small amount of current flow when blown, wouldnt be a problem on most cars though.

they have been availiable through RS components for years, you can also get manually resetable blade type circuit breakers and self resetting ones too. nearly all modern lorrys and the mercedes unimog use the manually resettable breakers.

i also have a set of RM's and need to know whats the widest i can safely go with a good drop and no arch rolling, i have been told 2" with stretched tyres but i dont really like the stretched look. by the way my RM's are ET35 which is the same as the original offset for g60's, not sure what the difference is between RM's and RM012's if any?

in what way does it not fit? is the steel tube in the centre of the bush too wide for the horseshoe shaped recess or is the tube too long? also what model corrado do you have? not sure but i think the early g60's and 16v's use the same as the golf but vr's might be different.

Its a new style of strut brace :lol:

all of the parts i mentioned would probably only cost about £85, if the nut in the centre of the top mount is moving within the mount then yes the bearing is well and truly fubar but its normal for the top mount to move within the tower when the car is jacked up.

I recently bought one of the mediun Du Pont Tyvek covers from halfords when they where on a half price promotion as i needed something to use when i was working abroad, its a perfect fit and doesnt flap in the wind at all, but all of the covers that actually touch the car all warn against use in freezing conditions even the really expensive ones from the motorshow. i allways wash the the car thouroughly before i fit the cover and so far it hasnt scratched it at all, the tyvek ones are also breathable, and seem to do a very good job at keeping the car dry. years ago my father used to have a car cover that was made from about 10 steel hoops that had a canvas cover attached to them, you just drove the car up to it when it was collapsed and then just lifted it up and over the car like a big shell, have never seen another cover like it but it worked superbly until it was nicked by gypo's.

when the car is jacked up its normal for the top of the strut to be a bit loose as the rubber section of the top mount drops out of the cup that it normally sits in, you can usually see if a top mount has gone because normally you should only just be able to get your little finger in the gap between the metal top plate and the strut top when the wheels are straight, although it is possible that the bearing could have gone before the rubber. you can usually tell a top mount bearing has gone when you get a clonking through the chassis when a front wheel hits a bump or dip in the road. its probably worth getting wishbone bushes, track rod ends, bottom ball joints and top mounts all done at the same time anyway, as it saves having the tracking and camber reset multiple times and most of the bits are pretty cheap and if one of those things is worn out the others will soon follow.

i bought a pack of 2 from tesco a few weeks ago for 90p, and they look identical to the halfords ones.

most of my mates seem to think its a hairdressers car???? odd thing is the one who takes the mick the most drives a mk1 golf cabriolet !

you might be better off fitting an ultra bright led in there instead, you can get 12v ones that dont require a resistor, the reason some of the switches start to fall apart is the heat given off by the filament lamps.

nope they just bolt on 8)

yeah the other one is much too short to go there, i was just making sure it wasnt just my set.

G60SC_Stoney, does yours fit ok? you appear to have an RSR type outlet with a longer flexi pipe coming out of it. catch_twotwo, yours appears to finnish in the same place as mine, did you try swapping any of the pipes around?

not sure how much you can see from this, but on the black silencer box end the silicone hose is at an angle with the jubilee just on the edge of it and is stretched down to fit, there is no other way these pipes would fit, i have tried every possible combination and this is the only way they go anywhere near fitting. Is there any difference between a US G60 and a UK G60 that would cause this problem, as i assume these where designed for a US model.

like i said Darren its not really a problem for me but i did try fitting from the charger end first and simply couldnt get the pipe to reach (especially with the tight space to work in under the car, plenty of bloody knuckles to prove it) the silicone pipes only just grip on both ends of that section of pipe so fitting it from one end or the other makes no difference, i would have had to re-position the intercooler and the fan would have still been in the way, it may be that as these are hand made to order there are some slight differences between kits but like i said im not really bothered. but whilst we are on the subject of the BBM pipes, the other day i was given an almost new bailey piston type dump valve that was previously fitted to a passat 1.8t, i know the dump valves are pretty pointless on a g60 but it looks better in the engine bay than that blanking plug on the bbm pipes, anyway am i right in assuming all i should need is a vacum feed to the top of the dump valve from the throttle body via a bleed valve? i did quickly try fitting the dump valve with no vacum feed and then gave the engine some rev's but it started to vent boost before it reached full throttle, does the g60 produce more boost than a 1.8t so it forces it open too early? i have been told stronger springs are availiable from bailey for high boost applications, or is there a down side to fitting a dump valve to a G60?

yep i do actually have the same problem with these pipes, it did improve a little when i fitted a slightly shorter front engine mount, but the pipe from the black silencer box on the charger to the intercooler is definately too short, the silicone hoses only just fit over the humped section of the metal pipe and the jubilee clip sits on top od the hump, i thought they had been designed with the RSR outlet in mind but obviously not, :? the silicone hose on the charger end is also bent down at a bit of an angle so it could probably do with another 1" on the intercooler end or a longer silicone hose to make up for it. its not really a problem for me as i am getting an RSR style outlet made that will connect directly to the bbm pipes so i will just make sure that is slightly longer to compensate, the BBM pipes are a great quality product but its just that one pipe that needs to be extended slightly. before i fitted the shorter mount it was stressing the black silencer box when the engine was revved and was actually leaking a little boost from the mating face with the charger.

they appear to have a deeper dish to the metal ring, which i have noticed on the mk3 bbs like ben16v said. i recently bought a set of brand new centre caps from ebay and when i received them they where still in a vw stock box with the vw stickers on the rear, the part number for the metal ring and the badge are the same as my old ones but the plastic nut design has been improved as it now has holes for a removal tool and 4 clips with a stronger spring clip instead of the 3 on the old ones, the part numbers for BBS RM's or the G60 BBS centre caps is definately 09.23.221 for the badge 09.23.26 for the plastic nut shaped bit or 09.23.212 for the old version, and 09.24.134 for the metal ring. new one on the left old one on the right.

i dont know of an orbital polisher that would be small enough to use in the engine bay, both frost and machine mart do small soft mops to fit on a drill, and a flexi drive would also probably come in handy. If you are only gently polishing then the drill shouldnt need to be heavy duty as long as its quite fast it should be ok. I found the best way to keep the ally shiney once i had polished it was to spray it with a fine mist of that 3 in 1 with ptfe oil they sell in halfrauds and then just wipe it off once in a while and re-polish it with the soft mop and fine wax block that came with the polishing kit from machine mart, i have got bored of that now though and will be taking all the ally bits to be powdercoated next week, i am also taking some bits of polished ally as they do a high gloss clear powder coat and they want to find out if it will adhere to a polished surface well enough to be used on the new rims for my BBS RM'S.

try FROST or MACHINE MART you will need a reasonably heavy duty drill to do any serious polishing though.

those fluke 25's are the ones i used in tech college and secondary school the college used to have hundreds of them, they only upgraded to the new model when the store room and fire door where left unlocked one night and someone nicked the lot, they left all the avo's behind though, they where probably too heavy.