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RS VR6

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Everything posted by RS VR6

  1. Looks good! I like the format. Same me a one...or two...maybe three. :lol:
  2. Using the allen key (happened to me too) is what probably stripped it in the first place. Use a Torx bit...the one you should have used.
  3. RS VR6

    Boost Gauge

    Of course you can. Just tap into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum.
  4. Check Folia-Tec...I recall they had something that let you extend your shifter.
  5. Got this off the Vortex 12v forum. [i:e4198]"In addition, an Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump also circulates engine coolant anytime the ignition is switched on. The Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump also runs when the engine is switched off and the coolant temperature goes over 107
  6. That VW aux pump is the biggest piece of crap ever. My brand new one failed in less than three years. Before it completely seized up...it sounded like it was grinding coffee. Here is what it looked like. From the looks of it, the grinding sound came from the loose impeller shaft...then it siezed when the shaft broke off. :fist: I guess I got lucky when I found a new one for 50usd shipped.
  7. Some insight on 268 and boost. Fueling seems to be the key. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2004988&page=1 Here for switching to the mk3 ECU. This pertains to US car...but it'll give you some insight on what needs to be done. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2397193 I agree with Kev on going with a lower profile cam. The 268's will probably lean out the fueling too much up top. I have the Schrick 260/264 + VGI with my VF stage 2 and it pulls very nice. The VGi gives a nice bit of extra punch in the midrange. Whoever told you to remove the flapper...lol...don't take any more advice from him. The VGi is useless without the flapper, you might as well run the stock manifold. The divided cylinders is what makes the VGi work.
  8. I just masked off the light and sprayed it black.
  9. Isotta uses the typical Momo/Sparco bolt pattern...so you can use a hub adapter from either one.
  10. I thought it was the other way around. Stretch bolts are the ones that don't need to be re-torqued. Thats what VW uses.
  11. The mk4 HG is supposed to raise compression by about half a point. IMO...the ARP's are good if you plan on removing the head more than once. Well your going to have to, because from what I know...you'll need to re-torque the ARP's.
  12. I was told by VF to avoid the mk4 HG with my charger.
  13. 17x7.5, 33et, 8mm spacer in the rear, 205 40 17 tires. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/ ... ofront.jpg
  14. A cut hose shouldn't cause the engine to run rough.
  15. What do you mean by the dip feeling a little "strange"? Under full throttle acceleration the "dip" is barely noticeable. If the flapper is opening...the VGi should be correctly installed...or at least wired correctly. The flapper should open in a clockwise direction. Double check your timing. Make sure the marks on the crank line up with the marks on the block and cams at top dead center. The purpose of the VGi is for the midrange torque not horsepower on the top end. I have the same setup (VGi, 260/264), but I have a VF supercharger also.
  16. The standard 11 inch brakes. It was mainly due to the higher offset ordered. I think it was a 35 that he got.
  17. They are 5x100...but he had to fit 12mm spacers to clear the front brakes.
  18. Yep, 7.5. I tried to talk him into doing 9's in the rear...but to no avail.
  19. I'll tke yours when you put the short one on. :D
  20. I don't see why you guys want one...I want to get trid of mine.
  21. You can try contacting Ronal...the ones that made the wheel.
  22. You either have a "Diverter" valve which recirculates the air back ino the intake or a "Blowoff" valve that vents into the atmosphere. They both basically help to prevent compressor surge, which is a back pressure of air after the throttle plate closes. It also helps the turbo or SC to spool faster between shifts.
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