jamiehamy

I emailed about these a couple of months ago and was told they would be in stock soon. The following week they had been removed from the website and I never heard anything else :( I ordered a set of TT 1.8T pipes from Amazon (yes!) and just used the front ones. Only £50.

In 17 years time, a voice will say 'Dad, remember the pictures of that old car you had? I wish you'd kept it for me'... If my dad had had something like a Corrado and sold it because of me, I know (now), I'd of wished he hadn't, or at least replaced it with something that would have kept his motoring credibility! lol I actually think now is the best time to have old cool cars, in +-5years time, it'll be so expensive and prohibitively regulated, I'm making the most of it! Once it's gone, it's gone and you'll probably not go back to that type of car again until you're too old..

Mine is very reliable and I do a large amount of miles in it (20k+ in the last year). As I've said on other reliability posts, I'm getting savvy about what will need replaced simply due to age, so upgrade/replace parts on a rolling basis, which helps reliability. Like Wullie, I wouldn't think twice about jumping in it and doing 300+miles.

Put the only spigot left on the front drivers and the vibration has reduced significantly, which is a good sign. Ordered new ones this afternoon, so hopefully that'll be it sorted :) Thanks, j

Update - took car into local McConnechy's who I've dealt with for years. They rebalanced the front wheels for free using only one weight. Still got the vibration. He suggested the wheels should have spigots - and then it dawned. They are missing! So ordered new ones, I think they've come off/been discarded over the years and only one was left on back drivers. Def needed for my OZ's (60.1-57.1). Hopefully the new rings will solve the vibration. Oh, and discovered the VW garage have put 11 weights on the rear - yup, 11!!! Back to McConnechy's next week!

I'm booking it back in to VW first, but if they don't do anything will take somewhere else for second opinion. Am I right in thinking the balance are really meant to compensate for tyre issues rather than wheels, or it it actually both?

I'm sure emu on here has a whole raft of handles for sale just now, but not in classifieds. Can't post a link as I don't know how to I'm afraid. Editting - just checked it and they are all passengers. Might be worth PM'ing and seeing if by chance he has drivers?

This is the thing. Before I got the winter tyres on, I found a large number of weights so removed them all (previously fitted by VW) - the guy fitting the winter tyres then only put about two on. Then I went to VW and suddenly there are 10 brand new weights! Seems crazy. I'll take them elsewhere for a rebalance at weekend, but trying to work out why someone has felt 10 are required - are my wheels gubbed, or does the boy in the garage not know anything about his trade?

Fitted new SKF top mounts tonight. Difference in handling is superb, it handles like a Clio 172 over back roads now! So responsive!

Got my winter tyres taken off last week (Continentals) as they were worn. Had a vibration between 70-85mph which I put down to worn tyres. Got new Toyo's fitted at weekend, but vibration persisted. Checked wheels tonight - the drivers front has a total of 10individual weights, the passengers 8 weights, all of varying sizes! Now, the Continentals only had one on each and the vibration was the same. Are my wheels f**ked? Is 10 acceptable? It was a VW garage that did the tyres. Wheels have a couple of scratchs and small chips, but nothing big and certainly no dings. Thoughts anyone?

Thanks all for the replies :) I'm happy to reuse my existing housings, just wasn't sure about how re-useable these were. I'd go to a scrappy, but obv the same problem arises - how to extract the terminals. If I can buy a tool to extract and then refit/recrimp, then i'll be happy. I'm already aware i've made a couple of 'bodgy' fixes and they have been annoying me for a while and want to redo them properly. Thanks again everyone for all the hints, esp for Wurth and VWP - I'd been searching too specifically. Cheers, J :) ---------- Post added at 01:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 PM ---------- Though a link to a link to a link... I found this wee guide. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288385 Perfect. I'm going to have many happy hours over the summer redoing some connectors! The yellow temp sensor has a loose wire so that's first to get redone. Looking to solder as I always feel crimped connections are more prone to coming apart of harbouring green growth in damper areas, but will take each one as it comes. I do reckon wiring is going to be an issue in the next few years so want to keep on top and redo as I spot something looking a bit worn or loose.

Hi all, Looking at my wiring, some of it is getting a bit tired with some splits or loose joins. Ive decided I'd like to start replacing some of it on a rolling basis. Apart from VW dealers, is there any where else that I can source plugs/connectors? I'm not looking for one in particular, but things like the temp sensor plugs and others in the engine bay are what I'd be looking for. I've had a good look online but struggling to find anything. Also, Where is the best place to source the different types of wire that I might need i.e. right thickness and colours etc..? Any ideas?

bump - anyone know what the differences are in the 3-speed boxes?

Just thought I'd update this after fitting new Genuine VAG red leads to the car at the weekend. Idle is smoother now. It's still not the smoothest idle in the world, but the slight roughness that was there ( like a half misfire on one cylinder only every now and again) has gone. It's just a constant very gentle roughness, which feels pretty normal. So not Jap V6 smoothness but not VAg old school 4cylinder roughness, which must be about right :) (Old leads were ECP cheap ones that were about 3 years old).

Surely this means that cylinder is NOT firing, therefore the problem cylinder/lead? If it changes, then it means it was firing and now isn't :)

If nothing on classifieds, then probably ebay is your next best bet. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-CORRADO-VR6-G60-16V-REAR-VW-CHROME-BADGE-GENUINE-NEW-/350416667835?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51967604bb

Fitted Genuine VAG (red) HT leads. Much better fit round the coilpack terminals so hopefully stop the arcing when driving on sodden roads. Car feels smoother at idle and nippier - old leads were Euro specials. Never again... Mileage - 174230.

Looking forward to seeing the guide. Sounds like my summer mod is sorted now unless I get a cheap 24v :) What sort of benefits does this offer? I imagine the Mk4 calipers offer better performance? Are the discs the same size? J

Thanks Kev - My cheapy cable gave up the ghost, but yeah, from memory it was 00537 11-00. So lamba related. I'd say the issue is an overall rev range issue, less noticable lower down, but still there. My whole problem is that I want it to run perfectly everyday...lol I'm thinking I'll have to save up for a new MAF. I reckon it's the original on it tbh and that'#s at 174k. It's annoying, there are some days when running well and you think ' Gawd, she just wants to go' and other days you really have to 'work' to get momentum (still fast, just not as willing). Easypops - I don't have the proper VAGCOM cable, so never been able to perform the basic settings. I've done about 10k since the last reset. :( Cheers, J

Hi all, I've decided to post and ask the question as I'm pretty certain the 'symptoms' are not just a figment of my imagination. Basically, sometimes I drive my VR and it feels great. Fast and willing to rev. Happy to sit at speeds above 70 without effort and sounds really happy. However, some other days, it feels slower and less eager to rev - it's more of an effort to get her revving about 4k. I've (in my head) analysed this for a good few months and can't find any logic to it. Outside temperature doesn't seem to make a difference - there is no pattern. Only thing I notice is that sometimes if i switch the engine off and back on, it improves performance. I know that the ECU adapts, but sometimes the car is 'fast' straight off. Final point - MPG seems to match this performance chance. When she's running 'faster', the MPG is better (unless i'm booting it). Any thoughts from anyone? I've done recently plugs, VAG leads, blue sensor, cleaned MAF, new air filter. Last time i ran VAG COM, it gave me the old 'Control limit not reached - intermittent' fault. I'm thinking MAF or lambda but wanted to check in case there's something else that could cause this. Has anyone else experienced this before? Thanks, Jamie

Mine is at 174k and never let me down, bar one fault that was mine, not the cars. I spend a fair amount of money every month, but only because I want to, rather than need to. The result is that I can depend on it no matter what. Because i've had it over 4 years, I know it pretty well inside out and what stage parts are likely to be at. My attitude to spending is geared towards getting her to 200k+ miles. Performance enhancements are not really on the agenda until I get a 24v :) Oh, and I've done 23k miles in the last 10months and have a 4k road trip coming up in 3 weeks!

Not sure about light, but your description matches how mine sounds, but i've never been able to work it right! The same sounds was on my old engine, hence why I'm just leaving it. When I took the head off that, there was nothing untoward looking to correspond to the sound.

Would be really good to see pics of this :)

Rather than start a new thread, I hope it's okay to ressurrect. Does anyone know the answer to this? I have the IHO 919 506 ( no 'A') module and wanting to buy one from here, but it's 357 919 506 ( I think , pic is blurry). It's from a Rado VR6, mine is a 93 too. Can anyone shed light? I can't find an exact match for mine for a resonable price anywhere, but loads of other codes! :( Thanks, J