_Matt_

These will look great on a big bumper mk2

That's a good graph, here's my one on a stock manifold and 263 cams - very different curve. Mine makes 160hp at 4k, shame they are not both in KWs but think that is 120kws. Peak power is 220hp/165KW at 6k but holds a fairly flat peak from 5600-6600rpm. I think vince increased my limiter to 7100

haha! I had on facebook for a while. They were actually your front seats but i dropped the price down the £225 for the whole interior in the end

Sold

Hi, I have an excellent condition late black cloth interior for sale. Cushions are great and no visible wear on the drivers cushions. These are out of a VR6 and have the humped rear. Handles for the seats included but have been removed for storage and handling. I am open to offers but put a price at £325 on my facebook ad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8cihxKuwPLFaN2R98 Collect from North Hertfordshire / SG8

haha yes good spot! They are a perfect proportion of the Corrado.

Thanks Cressa I will re do mine. Fla here they are. I got them off ebay. I've picked up the embossed corrado black ones so might take them off although I fear I will pull paint off so may not. And one of the car in its half put back together state. Its been back to a shell (engine didnt come out) and I mostly spent time sorting the underside. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I'm glad you posted both as put mine back in this weekend and didn't think the 1 inch gap looked right on mine. Maybe I have the kick trims on the wrong side as assume the kick trim holds the bottom of the door card too? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Does seem mad to send them off to Big Redd at those prices. I would refurb them myself however you'd need an air compressor to push the piston out but the rest is just changing over parts. Most rust will come off with a wire bursh and you can use a dremmel or die grinder with air compresser to do the hard to reach bits.

How did you get on Bruno? When I took my strut out for some work i put it back in with too much camber - i've since adjusted by moving the hub and tightening back up the bolts. This pic here you can see too much negactive camber:

I saw that one on Facebook as well - it looks a great buy for the money. Expensive mechanical work done and seller states no rust underneath and no flaky underseal which would be a 1 way ticket to rust repairs. A few parts to get rid of some choice "upgrades" - ash tray, parcel shelf, gear stick, steering wheel, tints but none of these are expensive to reverse. I would buy that one. Seems too cheap in some ways and does none of us favours who have restored their cars at 3 times the cost price of that one. The interior holds it back a bit but cloth is nicer is this heat.

Good it was somehting so simple! I remember now Vince telling me to check sparks and leads when I had bit of rough running as first port of call now you mention it.

The simpliest place to start is checking for vac leaks. This sort of stuff can cause all of those types of issues, especially flat feeling and cutting out. Secondly, when were the timing chains last done? Idle adaption seems it's trying to counter something and also sounds like it is overfuelling with the popping but could just be running out of time. Before i had my chains done my car was hard to start when warm and was flat feeling in the mid range. The idle wasn't smooth - juddered slightly every few second or two at idle. I dind't have an adaption errors though. Assume no other codes? There is a cam sensor up the top of the engine that can cause running issues. Any other maintance done over the last 10 years of note to help steer troubleshooting? Cheers Matt

Have you got the camber way off when installing the lower shock bolts? These are adjusted to give the correct amount of camber and I can imagine if you have them in full negative camber you're going to be close to the spring pans. I have B8 shocks which i am sure are the same in body to the B4s. Have you changed the wishbones at all VR6 and non VR6 are different (VR6 slightly wider/longer)

The car in the pics is a nice example but the interior holds it back and even worse, looking at the pattern on the rear seats it looks like it used to have cloth recaros.

I'm up for it IF I get one of the bloody Corrado's working.

I forgot to say on mine - i stripped the whole interior out (just incase work was needed on floors but they were ok) but the bodyshop took bumpers, doors, wings etc off If you have the balls for it it is worth taking a wire wheel on an angle grinder on any rust so the bodyshop can see and quote for repairs. Can always blast it with epoxy primer to re-seal whilst waiting for works.

Sounds good on the springs, i think they are a little softer than the ones Eibach supply originally (they were noticeably stiffer to push by hand I thought) so contours in the ground tuck the wheel up when it's parked. Mine was the same when i took some pics in a wooded area - rear wheels tucked up but stil nice a level like yours on flat roads. RE respray costs I think you're better off going for somewhere decent that can restore cars - I was quoted 7-10k originally by a place with a good reputation (Finishline in Stevenage) and that wasn't a full respray - it was just the sides, welding of sills and fuel filler area. I thought that was a bit expensive at the time. I found another place called Top Gunz in the Naezing/Essex/Herts border who quoted £5k cash for a windows out jobby and weld in a fuel filler area piece and "fix anything needed". He has done corrados before and lots of vws. I thought great just what i was budgeting for. However his business is painting cars, not restoring cars. I did have some work to do on the sills which i have now sorted my self now as that shop just left it. I guess my learning is to find a place that can restore cars - they can fabricate metal as well as paint. These cars are old now so a blow over won't last if there is metal work to be done. My actual paint job is good enough but i wish i paid a bit more and went to Finishline as have spent months putting the car straight and sorting areas like the sills myself. Plus side i've learnt to weld and paint but downside I'm redoing work that I had paid for. Also defo take out the rear 3/4 windows - i've seen too many paint jobs crack around the corner over time.

Good work and defo agree with using it for a bit before jumping into bodywork although be prepared that bodyshops are just as crap at putting a car back together as garages! I stripped the interior of mine before the respray but I still had my fair share of putting right afterwards - - spolier not tightened down and leaked water into the boot, - grommets on badges left off and stuck on instead also leaked in the the boot - dash was loosened to weld a corner of the screen but never re-tightened so rattled - fuel tank was taken out and put back without the breather pipes attahached and also pipes not located through the hole in the chassis leg - windscreen cracked on drive home as it was badly fitted - headlights not put in right (flopping about) - wrong screws used everywhere - the VW ones are coated in something so don't rust - the cheap shit the bodyshop used did - I found the sills and underside needing attention from their bad jacking so have just refurbished the underside. So, go in with your eyes open on the respray - can be headache - I would definitely recommend if you to strip the car back yourself as you'll no doubt be putting it back together properly anyway! Also what was the deal on the B12 kit? The first pic looked like eibach fronts and standard rears? I had eibach change the springs on the rear on mine. Incidently the part number on the rears they replaced them with are the same as the springs used on the mk3 golf. Mine sits just like your last pic

Nice Corrado and Golf. I hope you were joining the M1 at full throttle intercept at the time of spotting 😄

Yeah that's me - I've got the exisitng rad on the car - how do you get re-cored? I was on a spending stop last month as went over budget on my garage build and kit out. Gutted as they were £120. My rad isn't leadking but the fins are really brittle - run your finger along them and they go to dust and the dust looks a bit coolanty in colour.

Hi, Anyone got any new old stock or good radiator knocking about they'd sell me. I was looking for Dasis but seem to be out of stock and rocketed in price (£120 last time i looked now £250)

Hi Chris, they would be perfect - how do i buy them from you? Is a website or a private msg? Cheers Matt

Hi Pufferfish, The best thing to do is write a really good advert - stick to the facts and list the work that has been, take photos of the invoices so the buyer can get an understanding on how much it has cost to get the car where it is now. You won't get it back on Corrado, it's too niche but you need to highlight this to show your car is worth good money. You're trying to prove that spending £X on buying yours is cheaper than buying one for say £4k (this is what rough ones seem to be going for) and doing the same work as you have done to get it up to standard. Lots of people like a bargain but a 4k car needing 10k spending on it vs say yours for say £6-7k is not a bargain, yours is. Get pics of the underside, the sills, remove the 16v badge for the grille - it's an 8v G60. Your headlights aren't stock headlights - people will be looking for stock lights. Not having leather will work against you sadly - a leather interior is worth a grand these days. What's the mileage on the car? Buyers like sub 100k miles (i don't care for this myself but it's just what people like).

August Bank Holiday weekend?