_Matt_

I am using that Lucas product myself - seems alright so far. I use it with premium fuel as even that has ethanol in it.

Car numbers may well be declining but enthusiast numbers will be increasing or a higher proportion of owners being enthusiast status vs normal 'i bought it for 500 quid and will run it into the ground' owners. Either way it's worth considering since like everything in life there are pros and cons. Most use Facebook for parts or the known decent individuals ( not sure Higgins is in that camp tbh if its the same Higgins I have dealt with twice selling rusty crap for mega prices). Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Fair enough, I wouldn't mind if it meant others on the forum could get parts. Paid members would benefit either way rather than subsidise. Doesn't really affect the other areas where us lot reside - besides increased footfall may generate new members. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Exactly that. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Also so what if breakers list - half thr battle of owning a corrado is sourcing parts. Why not capitalise and work with breakers for member discounts to promote new members joining the forum on a paid membership basis. If you just want to chew the fat and chat most end up on Facebook so there needs to be something to draw new members over to this platform. To be fair new subscribers are not forthcoming to the forum so something needs to attract the new generation. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I agree - cars and parts for sale should be open to all. It means we can compete with Facebook in that regard or at the very least have items listed for sale on the forum. There are only about 12 active members and there is only so much gear they have to sell so somewhat limiting the way it is today. Certainly very limiting to members who don't use Facebook anyway.... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I like their products too - I have their Autowiz wheel clearer and use their hydrate 80 rust converter and the Gel stuff - all great products. I've not tried anything else but will make a point to try when I run out of other products.

Looking nice. What's the brakeline you went for - is it a braided version? I need a couple of the same fo mine. Does it join all the back at the hard line?

What are you guys using for the cleaning process? I've use a steam cleaner but not too much around the drain holes as don't want too much moisture in places it shouldn't go. Wondering if there is an "easier" way.

Looks great. Where do you get this done and assume you need to drop off in person?

ahh Gravitex is good - I found with either a brush or the air compressor & schultz I was able to get something that resembled factory. I use epoxy primer on the area before applying gravitex if it was a repair. If I had not given my car the dinitrol 4941 treatment prior to making some repairs I would have painted the gravitex to the factory colour I think but instead I carried on with the dinitrol over the top as an extra layer of waterproofing protection. It does mean my white car is now black underneath but I haven't gone really thick with it so you can still see all the joins under there. I've also not put it on the rear beam or subframe although you could do but just thought it might look a bit tacky. I'm giving Lanoguard a try this year as annual top of top product - it's clear in colour.

What Dinitrol products are you using? I used Dinitrol 4941 in black under mine with a layer of wax (3351 i think it is) as primer layer. I did it with an aircompressor with their schultz cans. I didn't realise they had a stonechip factory style product. I used Gravitex as the stonechip layer on mine with the air compressor but it isn't rubberised.

Hi mate, I'm interested in Power Steering Pump Bracket (if no cracks on the mounting points assume not!) 280mm Brembo Max Discs and G60 Brembo Pads I'll PM ya Matt

They are doing ET23 and ET38 - possibly an adapter option to enable 5 stud?

Looking good Ben 🙂. However like you I have only done about 100 miles on the car since fitting. I only went for my tyre choice because it was recommended by my local garage. I think your Dunlops are a better tyre and disappointly mine don't have a rim protector.

I am sure the owner of that £25k will be sorely disappointed with their purchase once it turns up, not only have they paid way over normal money in todays climate becuase i suspect they looked at the odo and closed their eyes at everything else_ + £1200-1400 to source the original interior and plastics + £120 for creams carpets +£250 for headlining retrim +£500 to find the original wheels and new tyres in refurbed condition +£2000 of bodywork on what I can see alone +£1500 in mechanical items such as bushes, brake lines and whatever else needs refreshing on a seldom used 25 year old car (couldn't see in the history anything of the sort had been done) OK the interior items I listed above aren't strictly necessary but the whole point of a low mileage special edition being valuable is that it is original.

Good work. I bought some Hekos over the summer but am yet to fit - easy job?

ha - I bet they will be having a disaster recovery review after this event. Just goes to show you can never be too big to learn.

Yeah I didn't really understand the problem - was it just a case of someone plugging their charger in to the server port 😄

30 mins out right now - how people must be loosing their minds. At least we have the forum to continue our car content 😄

Interesting RE the Ford Ranger 3.2 seems we all know at least one that has gone pop - there was one in the garage (friend of the garage owner) having a new engine when I was picking up my daily LR Discovery (also known for snapping cranks - PSA developed unit). He said he had fitted a few of them now. Does seem the more technical the engines are getting it's not the electricals killing them but mechanical failure instead.

Yes good call Dox, I'm interested too.

Are our bearings 72mm in diameter?

Hi, Thinking ahead to a winter job - my corrado squeaks on the front axle when driving. It squeaks like a little mouse and that goes when the brake is applied. The car has spent many months being worked on - can the bearings dry out or something? I've not worked on the bearings before but see these ones need to be pressed in. There is no play in the wheel on the standard checks and no noise spinning by hand. The brake calipers have been refurb'd. Any other thoughts on what it might be? Cheers

Haha Keyo good looking boy though. Nice seats but a bit rich with the damage - isn't that material really hard to find as well?