_Matt_

Yeah I had to go for something like this becuase of the garage height too. I wanted a scissor lift really but they are £5-600 more and I'd not use the full lifting height. Here's a test of overloading the 2.5 tonne up to 4.7 tonnes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtG3o2yUH1M I'd put some tyres and probably axle stands if i was working under there just incase! I hate working solely under axle stands and especially hate jacking the car and balancing it on axle stands - especially at the back of the Corrado (&mk2) - the place i jack is usually where i went to put the axle stand.

Made my decision and bought a set of these. BIt more than I wanted to spend but I was able to pick up from their warehouse 10 miles from house so that swung it. As my garage isn't that wide or tall I wasn't going to get the benefit of a fixed scissor lift or have the space to slide the 3 in 1 tilting lift under my car. https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Vehicle-Lifts/Scissor-Lifts/Kwik Lifts and Accessories/e4g-kl2500AC-portable-kwik-lift-ac220v

It does seem pretty good but one issue i've noticed is if you have a single garage like me (3.3m wide) i think you'll struggle to get it underneath. Here's a vid - you can get one end of the car up by 1.5m (go to 4:20 on the vid) by the looks or balance it on axle stands to get all 4 wheels. I'm still not sure about it lifting on the pinch welds, or as in this video inboard of the pinch welds. But I suppose it is better than lifting through the 2x2in lifting point of a jack.

Hi, Has anyone got one these in their garage, or anything similar? I'm considering this alongside the quickjacks lift and possibly one of the automotech scissor lifts but they're quite expensive and I could get an air compressor for the difference in price! https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/3in1-tilting-adjustable-car-lift-1-5-ton-cl01/ My worry about this lift is that the others have rubber blocks to lift on the factory jacking points whereas this tilting lift appears to rest along any section of the pinch welded sills which are not factory jacking points. To be fair it does appear to spread the load wide but I don't want to crush my pinch welds... The big advantage of this lift over the more expensive options is that it can be positioned to work either end of the sills. Cheers Matt

I didn't think £200 was too bad of a good 3/4 tbf. However he did offer me a passenger side cut for the lower rear arch/sill at £90 and it was rustier than the one on the 16v I wanted to replace!

Looking good. What underseal have you used on the bodysections?

A minor update - car still stored at my father in laws and lockdowns have meant no visiting or progress. It is tucked up in a garage now though with a blanket over it... I did buy some Borbet Cs for it and have considered trailoring it back to me but not ready for it over here yet.

If you needed more from that area there is a chap on the facebook group (Martin Higgins - Buckinghamshire area) selling a decent entire 3/4 on the drivers side for £200

Merry Christmas all!

205/50 seems the best option, sadly much more expensive than 195/50. I had thought speedlines were ET35 but are ET43 so that messed with some of my "will they fit" tests. Although I am comparing to speedlines the car these will be going on is the 16v which has factory "westwood" alloys with 195 50 tyres. They look undertyred to me and the alloys compared to speedlines and sit pretty inbound in the arch - they're 6J and ET35 so 205 50 seems to be the way to go.

Good point to look at 16s, 205 45 16 is a good size for 16s. I reckon I could get something more meaty on my 15in Borbets. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Not my car but thanks to whoevers it is as this is what sold me the look - wanted something reasonable to buy and period without centre caps that might go walkies as one of the uses of this car will be to commute by both my wife and I. Fancy a tyre profile similar to this:

Hi, I picked up some Borbet C 15in 7J (ET30) alloys off of a mk2 for my 16v Corrado. They have 185 / 55 / 15 tyres which seem fairly comparable to stock VR6 tyres on the comparator site (205 50 15). 185 seemed a bit thin in my head. Stock 16v tyres were 195 50 15 but I prefer the fatter tyre look of the VR6 (both profile and width) What size do you think?

Jeez I think i'll just convert my corrado and mk2 to LHD 😄

Some nice goodies found there. Like the centre console a lot.

Rain stops play today :( Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Cheers. This gives me some stuff to work off. Im not sure my earth will stretch as far as behind the dash. Ill get some pics if I can't work it out! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I have both of those i think, definitely the bottom one as have laid that one out. I can see the earth cable is at the relay end where as mine is with the drivers side seat. My cable wrapping is also completely wrapped so maybe the earth was moved at some point. Good to see where it's meant to be but annoyingly will mean i have to take my seats out again to unwrap and achieve that!

Cheers Philly, will hopefully get stuck into this at the weekend. Fusebox bit sounds ok with matching colours and connectors 🙂 My earth cable confuses me a bit though as it has exited the wrapped loom under the drivers seat area (RHD car, relays are mounted passenger rear). The wrap looks factory. I can see the stud behind the rear passenger door card though that you mention though but was wondering if there is factory stud on the transmission tunnel or something I could use although I can see it and most of my inteior is stripped out.

Thanks Fen, I hate window mechs - never stripped one before and hate doing them in case I can't get the window back up! No garage until Feb. Maybe it is a dirty slider. Lots of dust and debris was cleared from the inner base of the door when I got it back. Will check those clips but pretty sure I am clipped in if it is just those Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi, I'm plugging in the loom for the heated seats but can't work out where the earth wire on the loom is supposed to attach. My car didn't have heated seats from factory and the earth seems like it should attach somewhere under the drivers seat area on layout of the loom. I haven't got as far as my fuse box yet but am hoping it will be case of connect wires with connectors with the same colour. Cheers Matt

Hi, So I'm in the processing of scratching my head putting my interior back together after a year out. I thought I'd test my windows, which a year ago were working fine and the mechanisms have not been removed, but found my drivers one won't go all the way down and the passenger side one got jammed halfway up but fortunately managed to get it to close. Is this a sign of mechnaical failure or more likely something (wires?) getting in the way? I can't remember how the wiring and airlines were fixed. I've run mine in the doors on the clips along the bottom but not clipped anywhere else. The central locking wires look like they dangle randomly and they seem to dangle randomly to the exit of the door to the car. Are they supposed to be clipped in inside the door?

Febi Bilstein seem to have a good name but would avoid JP Group. I had a MAF sensor from them and we found it gave really strange readings on the rolling road. Topran also crap! I have used Meyle HD stuff which seemed quite good but have seen mixed reviews on forums.

It is a lot quieter here (to be fair I was around in the hay day), partly facebook and party paid membership now to try and keep it viable. Mine's spent the year in the process of a waiting for a respray and now me putting it back together. I've forgotten how a lot of stuff went together and have moved house in between.

Yeah it had a bare metal respray except the roof if i remember correctly and the engine was partially rebuilt if I recall - head refurb, chains etc. It was a good car I thought. Bad time of year to sell but I think he was happy enough with what he got for it.